What's Needed For 4l60e To Last With 4k Stall?

**Mesterious** · 08-12-2010, 07:15 PM

Hey guys I have a 2002 WS6 with 53k miles on it. I daily drive it for now until I get my real DD running. Right now I just have full exhaust on it and I am ready for the next step.

Well I have been debating on either a Stall or Suspension now and I thing I will go with Stall first. Well I want to go with a 4k stall and I plan on getting a 24k Cooler, Trans Go HD2 kit with no springs or spacers installed, Frost tune, and maybe a deep Tranny pan.

Well is that all I need for my transmission to last for 25k more miles at least with some track time in there. Is their more I need for it to last?

**Y2KPewterSS** · 08-12-2010, 07:20 PM

First off, I wouldn't go with a 4K stall for a DD and stock cam. The tune, deeper pan, shift kit and cooler are all great additions to the 4l60E, with the cooler being the most important component. Its hard to say if your tranny will last 25K miles with track time, the 4l60E is not a strong tranny in stock form. Everything you have listed is about all you can do to prolong its life without tearing into its internals and upgrading them.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 08-12-2010, 07:21 PM

I would really look more for a 3500-3800 range stall with a lockup. I believe most 4000 and up stalls don't have a lockup which won't be the most fun to drive on a DD with a stock cam.

**67CamaroRSSS** · 08-12-2010, 08:17 PM

Like Preston stated, a lock-up type stall is a must if you're going to street drive it at all.

In my case I have a 3400 Fuddle stall that is a lock up style. The wimpy stock aluminum sun shell has been replaced with "The Beast" which is made of stainless steel. All clutches are Raybestos heavy duty racing style clutches. Extra clutches were added to make it into a 4L65E type setup. All values for Torque Management in the PCM were set to 0. The tranny has a drilled separator plate with a (I believe it's a Trans Go) reprogramming shift kit. Some of the other items in the valve body were turned around (don't ask) and others were replaced. Additionally there was a "Drill Mod" performed to allow for more fliud transfer or pressure (once again don't ask as I only know what was told to me by the guy that did the work - he's told me numerous time and I still don't know - all I know is it runs like a Raped Ape!)

I race it at the track (see sig). I also have good tires and some supension work done to get it to hook off the line. I also recently drove it from PHX to the LA Invasion without incident and got 24+ mpg at 80 mph.

**Mesterious** · 08-12-2010, 08:27 PM

Thanks for the quick reply guys! I'm planning on going with a in between a 3600 and 4000 Lock up stall. I was either going with Yank or FTI. I have been told 3600 if I plan on staying stock cam or 4000 if I plan on upgrading later on. I plan on making at the most 25 passes a year on a 550ft. track (closest 8th mile track is 1hr and closest 1/4th mile is 1 1/2-2 hour drive). I was also think that I should upgrade to a Beast sun shell too for extra insurance. Either size stall I go with, I just want my transmission to last me a good while before giving out. I mean it will probably go out eventually but I want to prevent that from happening as much as I can without fully rebuild the transmission (for now).

**Z28Thunder** · 08-12-2010, 08:35 PM

I ran a 3500 TCI while stock. I had TCI change it to a 4000 when I went 231/237 and 3.73's. I would only go 3500 without a cam. 4000's can be daily driven but not on a stock setup. And with any converter change add a transmission cooler. The 3500 will build some heat. But a 4000 will get real hot in stop and go traffic.