what does this do?

[Zboner]

what does a stall do? and why is it so good? im a manual guy that bought an auto.

[Ric]

Stall is the rpm at which a given engine will cease to increase speed at full throttle with the powertrain locked. Say you have a car that's too weak to powerbrake. If you tried to powerbrake it, the engine would climb to a certain rpm and not go any higher. That's your stall. So a 3600-rpm stall torque converter will let a given engine rev up to 3600 rpm before making considerable forward motion. Make any sense at all?

Now keep in mind that a stock LS1 will stall at a lower rpm than a modded LS1, given they both run the exact same converter. Companies have a certain standard they go by to measure stall. B&M, for instance, measures stall with an input torque of 230 ft-lbs. Their stall ratings will be WAY off if you take such a converter and put it behind a diesel or FI race motor. Hope this helps.

[Ric]

Oh, the reason for a high stall(or "loose") converter is to get the engine up into its powerband right off the line so you can come out of the hole quicker.

[Zboner]

so if you have a 3500 stall the car would not really move untill it reached that certain RPM level? and when im on the gas what kind of difference would that make? everyone says an ls1 with a built tranny and shift kit/good stall can out run a 6 speed car? why is that? i am a head of my buddies WS6 car untilli hit 90mph, then kind slow down a bit.all i have is a lid and built up tranny but no stall

[Ric]

You'll still be able to drive quite comfortably with a loose converter, but it'll feel different, almost like you're low on trans fluid(don't worry, you're not if it was installed right and you have no leaks). That's only when you're cruising around minding your own business. When you hammer down though, that looseness allows the engine to "flash" up into its optimum power range, where the converter stalls and really starts transmitting torque to the wheels. And if you have traction, you may wind up with a sore neck... seriously.

As far as outrunning M6s, that been a given since before the LT1 era, largely due to the 3.06 1st gear in the then-700R4 and now-4L60E(The T56 6-speed manual has a 2.66 1st gear), plus no need to finesse the clutch off the line, plus the torque multiplication from the stator in the converter, PLUS the fact that NOBODY can shift an M6 as fast as an A4 can shift itself.

From a dig, A4s RULE. At top speed, the power required to turn the A4 makes it suffer, and the more efficient M6 will overtake it, assuming identical engines.

If you get one, make sure to get a lock-up converter. It has an automatically operated clutch hub that will engage on the highway for direct-drive operation, giving you better gas mileage and keeping the converter from heating up the transmission fliud and ruining the whole workings.

[Zboner]

then whats a good convert i can use? i already have the internals hardnend and a shift kit, and the beastshell. what is a good one that wont break me?

[Azhigher]

Might wanna check out fuddleracing. I think they might be a sponsor, of they were...

They can hook you up with a custom stall built to your specs for ~450 shipped, unless they're running a 10% off sale like they were, in which it'd only be $410 or so.

Thats who I'm going with when I get my stall done.