Trans cooler question?

**freaky57fast** · 04-08-2014, 12:03 PM

Looking at getting a 3600 stall for my heads/cam swap wondering what trans cooler I should get? BTU I don't know what I should get there are so many options and price seems like the only difference really. any suggestions? looking at a yank.

**pajeff02** · 04-08-2014, 01:31 PM

I went with a standard tube and fin cooler from Haynes (or maybe Derale). I was originally going to install a B&M stacked plate style cooler, but on the laid back radiator it didn't seem very conducive to air flow. With a 3,200 stall, our transmission generally stays under 180 degrees unless it gets stupid hot and humid out.

**2002ssslp** · 04-08-2014, 01:43 PM

My advice would be to get the biggest cooler you can fit.

**freaky57fast** · 04-08-2014, 04:03 PM

how would I be able to know what I could fit? im ordering my parts from ws6 store..

**freaky57fast** · 04-08-2014, 04:13 PM

they have b&m and the derale coolers the price for the derale is huge difference compaired to the b&m 13000 BTU up to 29000 BTU. I'm at a loss lol

**pajeff02** · 04-08-2014, 05:12 PM

You will mount the cooler in front of the AC condensor - so looking up into that area from beneath the car will give you an idea of what you have to work with. Also, you will be mounting towards the passenger side as that is where the stock cooler lines are located. Here are some pics of mine:

**freaky57fast** · 04-08-2014, 07:13 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

You will mount the cooler in front of the AC condensor - so looking up into that area from beneath the car will give you an idea of what you have to work with. Also, you will be mounting towards the passenger side as that is where the stock cooler lines are located. Here are some pics of mine:

OK cool makes things a bit easier to understand haha. What should I look for in cooling capabilities? 29000 but seems like a lot. Its for my dd and I'm in Michigan so heat and humidity are all over the place in the summer.

**pajeff02** · 04-09-2014, 02:27 AM

If I had to guess, I would say that our cooler is maybe 12 inches wide and 9 inches high. I would think that anything in this size range would work just fine.

**0rion** · 04-09-2014, 04:02 AM

the one I run is a 24k B&M at texas speed

**freaky57fast** · 04-09-2014, 04:12 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

the one I run is a 24k B&M at texas speed

Yours fit and has no issues keeping up with heat?

**0rion** · 04-09-2014, 04:48 AM

nope....works just fine. Temps are in the 180 range.

**allbaugh_04** · 04-09-2014, 07:22 AM

I think this is what I have...
B&M 70266 B&M SuperCooler Transmission Coolers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
20,500 BTU

It didn't come with the fittings, and it's a bit more expensive than others, but I just wanted a good cooler. I wish I had a temp gauge to know what it actually keeps the temps at, but I haven't had a problem in the 3-4 years I've had it.

**freaky57fast** · 04-09-2014, 03:03 PM

Alright guys thanks for all the help and input its still a toss up on brand but I'm gonna lean towards the b&m I think!

**LHanded Lead Foot** · 10-16-2020, 06:53 AM

Reply to a 2014 post. A little late and have out of it, but that's later. Cooler are tube type work fine just go larger if you're hard on your rig. Tube type are the ones that ball bearings can roll thru.
Newer extruded tubing used by GM on condensers since 2000, have very flat tubes that contain 1.2mm squares in a row up to 14 wide. They hold pressures fine but exchange heat soo much better. This helps and automatic but designed for R134a to remove latent heat. These cost more, but can be smaller to equal the same BTU's of heat energy.
It get hot, but real cold in the winter. Without a thermostatic control, no one wants ice cold ATF.
I have a truck with room under the bed, behind the cab, so I went off the deep end. I used and A/C condenser w/fan. A long skinny one designed for low profile. It's mounted at an angle on the return side. Easy to create hose fittings, but I fabricated an air duct that works like a rock shield with front scoop and slots cut 2/3rds of the back. This allow highway air and a place for the fan to push air. I set the fan on a circuit board using an NTC thermistor 10k probe type, to a voltage divider circuit and 10k pot to ground. The center tap on a 12.6-14.2 Vdc auto voltage, thru a 470 1/4W resistor allows for 3-6 Vdc to gate on N-channel MOSFET. Youtube has many adjustable thermistor videos to provide on/ off that's adjustable. I ran source to ground relay hot with key/ engine running. This makes future service & diagnostic easy. I find a W1205 a common module that has digital readout out under $12. It has a 0.030 Vdc drain, so has to be reset if power is lost.
Just an idea for anyone into this subject. 180 degrees F works for me.