Stalls/conveters!!!!

**leoni62486** · 08-02-2006, 08:02 PM

hey guys, ok so i know nothing about a4 trannys, i ihave no idea what the purpose of the converters are, i mean i always thought they were for just launching at higher rpms, but i tink im wrong there, please explain anything and everything if u could, such as driving on street, normal driving, and at the strip what it does pretty much, also i have put in a trans go shift kit in my car about a week ago, now i kno from that its gonna be a lot harder shift, but i thought only at higher rpms, cause when its goes frmo 1-2 it bumps so damn hard(barely pedaling it from a light i might add) under normal driving conditions, its gettin annoying, can u tune these or someting, or when i get a converter will it help this harsher shifts or what............???????¿¿¿¿¿

***Ed Blown Vert*** · 08-02-2006, 08:32 PM

http://converter.com/faqs.htm

**oneBADDz** · 08-02-2006, 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert

http://converter.com/faqs.htm

I read all those before I bought mine. I agree for the most part, but they say anything over 3000 isn't gonna be good on the street and they are liars. . .heh. I can't believe how well behaved my 3600 is since the tune. Under light acceleration you would never know it was there. Approaching 1/2 throttle, it holds 2500-2800 constant while accelerating, the car speeds up, rpms never change. 1/2 throttle and it holds 3000. Any more than that and I just realize how badly I need sticky tires. The converter did not affect shift firmness, that can be tuned on stock, but with your shift kit I dunno

Seriously though, driving light I would't ever know my stall was in there since the tune. Before the tune locking up was somewhat erratic, but afterwards it is flawless.

**oneBADDz** · 08-02-2006, 08:45 PM

Oh by the way ed, the tuner said the VIG is costing approx 20rwhp on the dyno that otehr 'verters don't cost you since it's so loose, so with a different stall you would be incredibly close to that 700rwhp mark

They didn't know what brand I had in it, just that it was a 3600 and when they saw the dyno charts they said, that's a VIG

**lrader99** · 08-02-2006, 08:47 PM

do not go all out...max torque is between 4200-4400..that puts you with a stall between 3800-4000....which is way way way.....too high if you plan to drive it at all on the street. no more than a 3200 would i run on the street with...you need to figure out what you want out of the car...with the shift kit what your doing is ramping up the Main Line Pressure...about 8-10 PSI...which doesnt seem like a lot considering it takes over 150 PSI to engage some of the clutches in the trans...but its more than enough...the reason it hits so hard now is you lost a lot of the dampning ability of the trans....so when it goes in gear its in....or its not...

HERES THE DOWNSIDE...with the proper TCC its gonna hit even harder....if its doing what its supposed to...that 4l60E is one bad ass trans...stronger than the 700R4 and every bit as strong as the TH400...it will take the abuse, the question is can you?...and your question to can they be adjusted is.....NO...once you drill out the holes in the seperator plate thats it...all you can do is get a new seperator plate and not make the holes so big. that would give you less fluid flow...and not quite as much of a ramp in MLP...if you cut the hole size that you drilled in half you would reduce pressure the same amount..so 4-5 PSI increase instead of the 8-10..
be careful...good luck...most importantly decide what you want it to do...all the parts have to work together, they cant be fighting each other

**AutomagicLS1** · 08-03-2006, 04:59 PM

I had a 4000 stall in my mustang which was probably a little excessive b/c they dont make much power. It would eat modded LS1's alive out of the gate till about 80ish and the LS1 would obviously just flyby me with topend power. My best explaination for it is you can rev more when going from a dig and when you nail it your rpms pretty much go instantly to 6Kish. without a converter and you go from a dig if you spin and it hooks they will bogg down. With a stalled auto this wont happen when you spin and hook it pulls hard REAL hard. If you go from a roll you can flash the converter and theres none of this watching the rpms go slowly to 6K its almost instant and when it shifts your RPM's will drop maybe 300rpm with a good application you stay in your powerband. Stalled Autos are Lethal from a dig....

**98-LS1** · 08-04-2006, 06:18 AM

Originally Posted by AutomagicLS1

I had a 4000 stall in my mustang which was probably a little excessive b/c they dont make much power. It would eat modded LS1's alive out of the gate till about 80ish and the LS1 would obviously just flyby me with topend power. My best explaination for it is you can rev more when going from a dig and when you nail it your rpms pretty much go instantly to 6Kish. without a converter and you go from a dig if you spin and it hooks they will bogg down. With a stalled auto this wont happen when you spin and hook it pulls hard REAL hard. If you go from a roll you can flash the converter and theres none of this watching the rpms go slowly to 6K its almost instant and when it shifts your RPM's will drop maybe 300rpm with a good application you stay in your powerband. Stalled Autos are Lethal from a dig....

That's exactly what I'm looking for as far as performance too, Guess I'll be buying a 12 bolt after the cam and converter install! I got the 315's for the rear in a Nitto 555 DR, haven't gotten them mounted yet but I'm sure it's going to dead hook up out of the hole.

**AutomagicLS1** · 08-04-2006, 12:35 PM

All stalled LS1 guys I nkow arent worried about the 10 bolt. You should be fine up to a cam and bolt ons. My friend went 11.20's with a cam ported heads and bolt ons lifting 17's off the ground and its his daily driver. When you stall the car up from a stop you already have a load on the car...unlike a standard theres nothing till you dump the clutch.