Stall Converter

[one_fast_z28]

Well,i'm in need of a new torque converter.
All i Know right now is that my car has a performance tranny(dont know what its pulling?)
Also, that my engine has a ls6 manifold.?
So, i wanted to get a YANK STALL CONVERTER.
But i don't what kind, like a 3000 yank,3200 yank,36000 yank etc?
Also, If it need a non-lock up Or with a lockup?
Please help, don't really know about this stuff.

Thanks

[nhraformula]

Follow below link and it does a good job of explaining

http://www.converter.com/faqs.htm
I suggest a 3200 stall.

[Cutlass]

3200 or 3600 are nice choices. You want a lock-up converter for a street car

[one_fast_z28]

3200 or 3600 are nice choices. You want a lock-up converter for a street car

I read. All About converters on a website. So i found out that i do need a lockup.

Thanks for the help.

[pajeff02]

Don't forget to add an auxiliary transmission cooler as the higher stall converter will generate more heat.

[67CamaroRSSS]

You"ll need more than just a cooler to go with a high stall TC.

In my case I went with a full on race rebuild (Beast sun shell which is Stainless Steel vs the stock Aluminum) with extra clutches and deleting Torque Management in favor of a shift kit controling the tranny. I also have a Fuddle 3400 stall as well as a tranny cooler external to the radiator..

The tranny also has a few internal mods to go along with the "race" nature of it's build.

Mind you, it runs like a normal tranny (shifts 1-3 and down shifts when I come to a stop - it's not a manual valve body) but it doesn't shift to OD till ~ 40mph. This allows running at hiway speeds with reasonable mpg (24 mpg @ 75 mph) but still allows it to shift at WOT @ ~6krpm with a stall (before it spins the tires) of approx 2500 rpm.

This applies to the 2002 in my sig.

[Durango]

You"ll need more than just a cooler to go with a high stall TC.

In my case I went with a full on race rebuild (Beast sun shell which is Stainless Steel vs the stock Aluminum) with extra clutches and deleting Torque Management in favor of a shift kit controling the tranny. I also have a Fuddle 3400 stall as well as a tranny cooler external to the radiator..

The tranny also has a few internal mods to go along with the "race" nature of it's build.

Mind you, it runs like a normal tranny (shifts 1-3 and down shifts when I come to a stop - it's not a manual valve body) but it doesn't shift to OD till ~ 40mph. This allows running at hiway speeds with reasonable mpg (24 mpg @ 75 mph) but still allows it to shift at WOT @ ~6krpm with a stall (before it spins the tires) of approx 2500 rpm.

This applies to the 2002 in my sig.

Ok you are very technical and I'm not :-) so did you change your tranny added parts or modified it I don't have a lot of knowledge so I need help would it be to much to ask to list parts and prices so I can call JD Racing my local guy and talk to him and know where I am going???? It sounds like what I'm looking for how much did that cost u???

Thanks

[67CamaroRSSS]

Ok you are very technical and I'm not :-) so did you change your tranny added parts or modified it I don't have a lot of knowledge so I need help would it be to much to ask to list parts and prices so I can call JD Racing my local guy and talk to him and know where I am going???? It sounds like what I'm looking for how much did that cost u???

Thanks

Major things that were done:

General rebuild/refresh of the tranny to include:

- Deleted Torque Management. This is a PCM programming thing. If your tranny guy can't do this (or doesn't know what I'm referring to) then look for another tranny guy.

- "Beast" sunshell. This part is made from aluminum in a stock tranny. The Beast is made from stainless steel (Google "Beast sunshell"). While it is cheap to make from aluminum and more than up to the task in a stock application it will fade with time. The sun shell in my stock 42,xxx mile A4 tranny was showing burn marks from moderate racing in the 1/4 mile. This is a common upgrade and well worth the $$$.

- Upgraded clutches in the drums. My tranny guy went with Raybestos racing clutch disks and upgraded plates between the disks (I don't know the brand name).

- Shift Improver kit. In my case he went with (TCM? Trans Go? I don't remember) a major brand of shift improver kit which changed the separator plate between the valve body and tranny and changed the balls used in the passages to improve the shift performance and line pressures. This is similar to what any good shift improver kit will have.

- A good brand name of transmission cooler. This may be used in lieu of the existing radiator cooler or in conjuction with same. Mine is used in conjunction with the existing radiator cooler, i.e., tranny fluid goes thru the radiator and then into an auxilary cooler mounted in front of the radiator before returning to the tranny pan. I do this as I have a...

- Goodish sized (in my case 3400rpm) high stall lockup torque converter. This allows you to "brake stall" the engine to a higher speed to acheive a good "off the line" launch of the vehicle. Current hi speed stall converters have a lock-up function which allows them to "lock-up" at a preprogrammed (remember I stated if your tranny guy doesn't reprogram the ECU then find another tranny guy) mph, where it then acts like a normal torque converter. A tranny cooler should be included with any type of upgrade regardless of what was done.

- My tranny guy did several "internal to the valve body" things (enlarging passages to increase line pressure among others) that he won't share with me as he considers them "trade secerts". Such is life...

All told this cost me ~$2100 for everything: R&R of the tranny and all mods including the TC (which I got a smoking deal on). He also tuned the PCM to work with this tranny/TC setup.

FWIW: It pays to have friends in the business that are willing to help....

Also: This was the "Drove it in, drove it home and it was .5 seconds faster in the quarter mile" price...

See sig for mods to the 02.

[Durango]

Major things that were done:

General rebuild/refresh of the tranny to include:

- Deleted Torque Management. This is a PCM programming thing. If your tranny guy can't do this (or doesn't know what I'm referring to) then look for another tranny guy.

- "Beast" sunshell. This part is made from aluminum in a stock tranny. The Beast is made from stainless steel (Google "Beast sunshell"). While it is cheap to make from aluminum and more than up to the task in a stock application it will fade with time. The sun shell in my stock 42,xxx mile A4 tranny was showing burn marks from moderate racing in the 1/4 mile. This is a common upgrade and well worth the $$$.

- Upgraded clutches in the drums. My tranny guy went with Raybestos racing clutch disks and upgraded plates between the disks (I don't know the brand name).

- Shift Improver kit. In my case he went with (TCM? Trans Go? I don't remember) a major brand of shift improver kit which changed the separator plate between the valve body and tranny and changed the balls used in the passages to improve the shift performance and line pressures. This is similar to what any good shift improver kit will have.

- A good brand name of transmission cooler. This may be used in lieu of the existing radiator cooler or in conjuction with same. Mine is used in conjunction with the existing radiator cooler, i.e., tranny fluid goes thru the radiator and then into an auxilary cooler mounted in front of the radiator before returning to the tranny pan. I do this as I have a...

- Goodish sized (in my case 3400rpm) high stall lockup torque converter. This allows you to "brake stall" the engine to a higher speed to acheive a good "off the line" launch of the vehicle. Current hi speed stall converters have a lock-up function which allows them to "lock-up" at a preprogrammed (remember I stated if your tranny guy doesn't reprogram the ECU then find another tranny guy) mph, where it then acts like a normal torque converter. A tranny cooler should be included with any type of upgrade regardless of what was done.

- My tranny guy did several "internal to the valve body" things (enlarging passages to increase line pressure among others) that he won't share with me as he considers them "trade secerts". Such is life...

All told this cost me ~$2100 for everything: R&R of the tranny and all mods including the TC (which I got a smoking deal on). He also tuned the PCM to work with this tranny/TC setup.

FWIW: It pays to have friends in the business that are willing to help....

Also: This was the "Drove it in, drove it home and it was .5 seconds faster in the quarter mile" price...

See sig for mods to the 02.

There is no cheap ways to do it right! As long as you drop the tranny I guess we might as well do it right I will bring this list to my performance guy and delete the price part lol Just to compare what he says Thanks again

[MrMasterCraft]

Major things that were done:

General rebuild/refresh of the tranny to include:

- Deleted Torque Management. This is a PCM programming thing. If your tranny guy can't do this (or doesn't know what I'm referring to) then look for another tranny guy.

- "Beast" sunshell. This part is made from aluminum in a stock tranny. The Beast is made from stainless steel (Google "Beast sunshell"). While it is cheap to make from aluminum and more than up to the task in a stock application it will fade with time. The sun shell in my stock 42,xxx mile A4 tranny was showing burn marks from moderate racing in the 1/4 mile. This is a common upgrade and well worth the $$$.

- Upgraded clutches in the drums. My tranny guy went with Raybestos racing clutch disks and upgraded plates between the disks (I don't know the brand name).

- Shift Improver kit. In my case he went with (TCM? Trans Go? I don't remember) a major brand of shift improver kit which changed the separator plate between the valve body and tranny and changed the balls used in the passages to improve the shift performance and line pressures. This is similar to what any good shift improver kit will have.

- A good brand name of transmission cooler. This may be used in lieu of the existing radiator cooler or in conjuction with same. Mine is used in conjunction with the existing radiator cooler, i.e., tranny fluid goes thru the radiator and then into an auxilary cooler mounted in front of the radiator before returning to the tranny pan. I do this as I have a...

- Goodish sized (in my case 3400rpm) high stall lockup torque converter. This allows you to "brake stall" the engine to a higher speed to acheive a good "off the line" launch of the vehicle. Current hi speed stall converters have a lock-up function which allows them to "lock-up" at a preprogrammed (remember I stated if your tranny guy doesn't reprogram the ECU then find another tranny guy) mph, where it then acts like a normal torque converter. A tranny cooler should be included with any type of upgrade regardless of what was done.

- My tranny guy did several "internal to the valve body" things (enlarging passages to increase line pressure among others) that he won't share with me as he considers them "trade secerts". Such is life...

All told this cost me ~$2100 for everything: R&R of the tranny and all mods including the TC (which I got a smoking deal on). He also tuned the PCM to work with this tranny/TC setup.

FWIW: It pays to have friends in the business that are willing to help....

Also: This was the "Drove it in, drove it home and it was .5 seconds faster in the quarter mile" price...

See sig for mods to the 02.

I would like to say thanks as well. Not that I need it, but the information will come in useful at some point or another

[Durango]

I would like to say thanks as well. Not that I need it, but the information will come in useful at some point or another

Kinda stole the thread here I was going to ask the same questions as you thanks for that Cheers