Slipping Trans

**j nix** · 09-15-2010, 06:13 PM

I was looking for help identifying a transmission problem. I almost didn't get my car home yesterday. 4 out of 5 times that I pressed on the accelerator, my cars RPMs would go up, but my car wouldnt speed up. It was like i was in neutral pressing the gas. Any help is appreciated.

**JaycenK** · 09-15-2010, 09:04 PM

In all gears or just one or 2? Is the fluid level ok? need more info. Filter changed in recent time?

**j nix** · 09-17-2010, 04:22 AM

I am pretty sure all gears. I couldnt get past second gear. My trans fluid was low. I have been filling it up, but I gave up. I have a trans fluid leak. I took my bcar to a mechanic that was a friend of my wifes dead uncle. Thought a mechanic we knew would take care of me. Told him about the leak and he said it dripped maybe 3 drops, when he had it. Said it wasnt a big deal. Never really believed him. I have 10" diameter puddles all over my driveway. NOT A BIG DEAL. I have only had the car since June 2010. I think I need to find the leak and change all the trans fluid. I am going to use Dextron VI. I don't know how to fix the leak when I find it. Basically, I am willing and able to do this job, but I don't have any experience doing this. I know for most of you it is simple compared to most other car repairs, but it isnt a difficulty issue, it is an inexperience issue. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also, if I take out my alternator, do I need to disconnect my battery first or anything like that?

**Smittro** · 09-17-2010, 04:40 AM

When does it leak the most? When the rear is down hill or when it's up hill? Reason if the rear seal is bad it will leak when the car is facing up hill.. If it's the main pump seal it will leak more when facing down hill.. Rear seal will require the drive shaft and yolk to be removed and the seal replaced.. Rear seal is the cake one.. However if it is the pump seal you'll have to pull the tranny to change that one..

As a heads up.. Most automatics transmissions will begin to fail if they're run consistantly on low fluid.. The 4L60E even more so, they require a very correct fluid level.. Also, remember to add fluid with her running and up to operational temperature.. If you're adding it while the car is'nt running you could easily under fill it... Let us know what you find. Try warming everthing up to proper temps and them while it's running (be safe) get your head under and wait and watch.. Another way is to chalk out line the tires on the pavement where it gets parked for the night.. Next day come out move the car and see which set of outlines the puddle is close to.. This will give you a good idea where to look for a leak under the car.. If the puddle is closest to the front chaulk marks then start looking moer towards the front of the tranny, and viseversa if the puddle is more to the rear.. Good luck let us know..

**j nix** · 09-17-2010, 04:46 AM

Thanks. I am going to take out the alternator today to get it rebuilt. I should have it back in a day. Then i will get into that, being it will probably be more work. Thanks for the info, i will let you know what i find. I was filling with the engine off, oops. i was checking it while running. i would let it run for 15-20 minutes in the garage then check the level. But i have to fix the leak or i am just waisting my time.

**JaycenK** · 09-17-2010, 12:54 PM

Jack the car up in the front and take a bottle of engine cleaner under there and clean the piss out of it and then run it and see where the leak is coming from. 9 times out of 10 it is the pan gasket. If it's slipping due to low fluid the damage is done. you will need to have it rebuilt. It could be a clogged up filter but I doubt it. It sounds like it is in need of a rebuild and a new or reconditioned torque converter.

**Cutlass** · 09-17-2010, 05:27 PM

My Jeep leaves big 10" ATF stains in my driveway after a few days. I put the thing up on the hoist and only see 2 drips hanging off the transmission and a thin slimey layer of ATF on everything. So its possible to not drip much but leave big stains.

**j nix** · 09-17-2010, 06:50 PM

My T/A has always run like a beast. It was slipping bad, but only for one day. It is my secondary car, so I drive it every few days. It could have leaked enough between driving it to cause the problem. I won't assume the worst. The trans filter could have fallen off too. I will post what i find. Waiting for my rebuilt alternator to come on Monday before I get into the Transmission Issue.

**JaycenK** · 09-18-2010, 09:06 PM

Originally Posted by j nix

My T/A has always run like a beast. It was slipping bad, but only for one day. It is my secondary car, so I drive it every few days. It could have leaked enough between driving it to cause the problem. I won't assume the worst. The trans filter could have fallen off too. I will post what i find. Waiting for my rebuilt alternator to come on Monday before I get into the Transmission Issue.

ok I got lost on that I thought it was doing it all the time now. Yea low fluid or low and overheating fluid will cause that.

**j nix** · 09-19-2010, 01:38 PM

Hoping it is an easy fix of the seal on the trans pan. If the trans is gone, it will put a halt to the upgrades I want to do.
What about changing my A4 to an M5 or M6? Is that a waste of money? I like having control of of the trans. Or is there an easier way to get control, like a manual valve body?

**Cutlass** · 09-19-2010, 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by j nix

What about changing my A4 to an M5 or M6? Is that a waste of money?

try this thread for more info
a4 to m6

**j nix** · 09-22-2010, 03:13 PM

Hey evrybody. I am going to search for my trans leak tonight. I am going to change the filter, gasket and put in Dexron VI fluid. Does anybody have any tips for a newbe?

**JaycenK** · 09-25-2010, 09:01 AM

Well I saw this a little late but get ready to get messy. You want to have the car up in the air and the cleanest way it to loosen the bolts so the front will fall before the back other wise it drips down the trans crossmember and runs all over the place. take bolts out of front and slowly loosen bolts in front. have a large oil pan ready and use a plasic pudy knife to break the seal at the front then it is a task in it's self to keep lovering the pan and not have the fluid go all over the place. Once the pan is off the trans will leak from all over for months so clean the flange and pan surface really good and then give a quick wipe before installing the pan and new gasket. as for the filter change the filter seal ring. they dont come out easy so take a small screew driver and pry the edge of the ring inward on it's self until it folds in half. make sure not to scar the surface it sits in. If it is in all the way flush, turn the screew driver sideways and try and get an angle on it inward and fold it that way by useing a light hamer taps. A seal puller will work if you have one small enough but dont scar the aluminum. I tap the new seal in with a deap socket and hammer. Good luck.
manual valve body for a 4l60e is ok at best.

**j nix** · 09-26-2010, 07:15 PM

Thanks. I am doing it tomorrow, we will see how it goes.

**j nix** · 10-02-2010, 04:46 PM

I figured out that I don't have 3rd or 4th gear. It is the stock trans with 115,000 mileson it, so I guess it is due to be rebuilt. I am going to have a local trans company do the work. I want to rebuild it, but I am not sure how much RWHP I should build it to handle. I only race on the street and don't know if I will ever make it to the track. Any suggestion on what parts I should build up to handle up to 500 HP? And what stall speed should I get? I want it to shift smooth when I am not racing, but I want to get out of the hole faster than stock.

**JaycenK** · 10-03-2010, 08:28 PM

regular shop will charge about 1100 bucks to rebuild. My sugestion is to go with a preformabuilt if your going to make 500hp. You may get lucky and find a shop that will do a preformance build for a couple hundred less but will it last. I am on my 3rd right now so I'd say spend the money and look at preformabuilt.

**j nix** · 10-04-2010, 06:59 PM

Performabuilt Level 1 is about $2300 with a converter, plus I have to have my trans taken out and the new one put in, which would be another $600 probably. I am getting a corvette converter and the trans built up to probably a Level 1 for $2080 and it includes the removal, install and calibrations. I will be saving $1000, plus if I have a problem I can just take it up to the shop and have them fix it. Also a 2 year warranty. I am sure performabuilt does a great trans build up.