Shuddering problem

**Anwazi** · 08-07-2009, 10:12 AM

Anyone know what the shudder issues may be for my TA. I have a 98 Automatic. It shudders during acceleration, but not always. On the highway it keeps slipping in and out of overdrive and feels like i have unbalanced tires.
I've changed the tires and when coasting i'll put in in neutral to see if it's a drivetrain issue or wheels. Still vibrates like i'm driving over rough terrain. I do have a slightly bent front left wheel, but i would think it would be more of a consistent vibration, however it just feels like the engine is running rough or something.
Help!
unbalanced driveshaft?
bearing hubs?
torque converter?
transmission mount?

Thanks

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-07-2009, 10:21 AM

Hard to say, but after I had some exhaust work done, I felt a real similar problem on my SS. It turned out to be that one of the brackets they welded up for the exhaust heated the driveshaft and it was out of balance. I got it rebalanced and the problem was fixed. It felt like unbalanced tires.

**Anwazi** · 08-07-2009, 10:45 AM

i figured when i put the car in neutral while coasting it would not vibrate if the driveshaft was disengaged. But it still does. actually yeah, it would still spin wouldn't it...duh...

I guess by doing that means it's not coming from the engine mounts or engine itself.
Anyone know how much it costs to have the driveshaft balanced??

**Spikito** · 08-07-2009, 11:03 AM

get your torque converter flushed...cost about $100... needs to be done about every 50k anyway.

I was havnig that same problem once...mine actually turned out to be a loose spark plug.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-07-2009, 11:04 AM

I paid $50 to get mine rebalanced. I took it back to where I had the custom drive shaft made though. This was on my 1996 Camaro.

**Anwazi** · 08-07-2009, 11:46 AM

i noticed it started doing this after i replaced my transmission mount with an aftermarket one. Initially i thought the aftermarket part was off so the angle of the driveshaft was, in effect, causing the vibrations. I need a flush anyway, so I may try both.

would a normal shop balance the driveshaft? i know i don't want to go to the dealer, that's fo sho!

**Anwazi** · 08-07-2009, 11:51 AM

also, anyone know what that *ping* sound is when i move the shifter from Park to R or D even. Also hear it *Ping* when i accelerate from a dead stop with wheels turned.

U joints maybe??

**Silver Streak** · 08-07-2009, 11:52 AM

There aren't a lot of shops that will balance a DS.. I would suggest a 4x4 place that deals with custom things...

**Spikito** · 08-07-2009, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by Anwazi

also, anyone know what that *ping* sound is when i move the shifter from Park to R or D even. Also hear it *Ping* when i accelerate from a dead stop with wheels turned.

U joints maybe??

yeah i would think a u joint for that...something with slack thats catching up....it could even be coming from the diff....but i would think u-joints first

**kaine806** · 08-07-2009, 04:29 PM

I would check the U-joint's first or just replace them you can pick them up for 10 buck's eachat any auto part's store... if it's not that check the rear end you mite have a bad bearing some thing loose in there..

**TedsB4Csled** · 08-29-2009, 08:35 PM

Is there a special tool to get those u-joints off? The shop where I had my tranny rebuilt claimed they could not remove them without a specific tool? I have an 02 LS1 with aluminum DS.

**kaine806** · 08-30-2009, 05:02 AM

they do make a u-joint removal tool... but I have al way's used a a socket and a hammer... I have a 3.5 aluminum drive shaft in mine at the moment...
the tool cost close to 100buck's.. but if you try and use a socket be very carful not to hit the drive shaft.

**TedsB4Csled** · 08-30-2009, 05:11 AM

Originally Posted by kaine806

they do make a u-joint removal tool... but I have always used a a socket and a hammer... I have a 3.5 aluminum drive shaft in mine at the moment...
the tool cost close to 100buck's.. but if you try and use a socket be very careful not to hit the drive shaft.

Thanks. Good to know there is a tool and an alternative.

**Spikito** · 08-30-2009, 03:33 PM

Originally Posted by TedsB4Csled

Thanks. Good to know there is a tool and an alternative.

theres always a tool....and always an alternative

**TedsB4Csled** · 08-30-2009, 05:08 PM

Originally Posted by Spikito

theres always a tool....and always an alternative

Lmao!

**joedude02** · 09-02-2009, 01:53 PM

Originally Posted by Spikito

get your torque converter flushed...cost about $100... needs to be done about every 50k anyway.

I was havnig that same problem once...mine actually turned out to be a loose spark plug.

loose spark plug should've thrown a lean code. at least it did mine that way.

**joedude02** · 09-02-2009, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by Anwazi

Anyone know what the shudder issues may be for my TA. I have a 98 Automatic. It shudders during acceleration, but not always. On the highway it keeps slipping in and out of overdrive and feels like i have unbalanced tires.
I've changed the tires and when coasting i'll put in in neutral to see if it's a drivetrain issue or wheels. Still vibrates like i'm driving over rough terrain. I do have a slightly bent front left wheel, but i would think it would be more of a consistent vibration, however it just feels like the engine is running rough or something.
Help!
unbalanced driveshaft?
bearing hubs?
torque converter?
transmission mount?

Thanks

i get the same shudder you describe. i too, have changed my tranny mount with an energy suspension one. i have reason to believe that this noise we share may be in the rear end ( pinion gear bearing possibly) this shuddering noise came about only after the mount change though. i also believe the possibility of it being the torque arm bushing/mount. gonna check that out later tonight. let you know what i find.

**Spikito** · 09-02-2009, 06:43 PM

Originally Posted by joedude02

loose spark plug should've thrown a lean code. at least it did mine that way.

mine never threw a code...had it loose for over a month, it was only in about 1 turn by the time we figure it out....mines OBD-II, but i dunno if its different for the LS1.

the way we found mine, he hooked his diagnostic computer up, then pulled up a screen that showed each cylinder, and a counter, it counted misfires. it only missed under stress. so he powerbraked in reverse, which is somehow different than doing it in D....when he did, cylinder 6 went nuts.

**TedsB4Csled** · 09-02-2009, 08:11 PM

Originally Posted by Spikito

mine never threw a code...had it loose for over a month, it was only in about 1 turn by the time we figure it out....mines OBD-II, but i dunno if its different for the LS1.

the way we found mine, he hooked his diagnostic computer up, then pulled up a screen that showed each cylinder, and a counter, it counted misfires. it only missed under stress. so he powerbraked in reverse, which is somehow different than doing it in D....when he did, cylinder 6 went nuts.

good to know that diagnostic. LOL. But he found it!

**Anwazi** · 09-04-2009, 07:08 AM

Originally Posted by TedsB4Csled

Thanks. Good to know there is a tool and an alternative.

When i removed mine. I had a hard time. I believe mine were OEM u-joints. There was actually a "wax" type material that locks the u-joints in. You have to heat it to get the wax to come out on it's own. once it reaches it's boiling point, for lack of better words, it comes out like those snake fireworks on 4th of july.