do not build your tranny this way

**silverz28camaro** · 09-14-2007, 08:37 PM

OK well i installed the b @ m shift kit which removes the accumulator springs and tunes up line pressure, well after about 10 months on my new rebuild the output shaft snapped costing me even more in hard parts for the tranny.

if you are going to race your tranny like me, then keep the accumulator springs in place, or maybe even just get stiffer springs, but by all means do not remove them, you have other options in front of you such as billet servos with more apply area, tranny cooler, more line pressure on the ecu part, and a trans-go kit that replaces the pump spring for constant line pressure above 5,500rpm,

i don't want anyone to make the same mistake i did my making a hard shifting car, which was cool but breaks parts, also if you are looking at having your tranny rebuilt look at the prices, most tranny shops will charge approx. $1400 for a rebuild when you can get a brand new tranny for $1800 from pro-built or cpt transmision, that will handle low 11 second passes reliable.

in my case i already spent $1700 on the first rebuild from a local shop that did not know to inform me that these tranny can not take a hard shift, and now that it is out again i can either buy a new tranny from the 4l60e experts or rebuild my own with their parts if it is cheaper. If all the hard parts i need add up to over $1200 i may as well save the extra $400-$500 and get a new unit, my list so far is an output shaft, input shaft,rev./input rum,stator side of pump, bushings, transgo kit, heavy accumulator springs, sonnax servos, everthing else looks good in the tranny planets, and clutches, after all the tranny only has about 6,000 miles on it.

DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU HAVE YOUR TRANNY DONE MY A LOCAL SHOP

**slims00ls1z28** · 09-15-2007, 06:34 AM

Could also either flip the diaphrams or use 2 instead of a spring. Firmer shift but not as hard as with no spring. Neat little tricks I'm learning with the 4L60's. I dunno I'm still leary of alot of these fly by the night built trans builders. I have seen a couple of broken raptors already and from what some of the builders I hang with say performabuilt is about the same. Find you a good builder who knows his stuff and bget one built.

**Pro Built Automatics** · 09-15-2007, 10:23 PM

You can get firmer 1-2 shifts at WOT with a modified accumulator (if you desire), than if you blocked the accumulator. The vast majority of performance transmission builders do not know this. But by blocking the accumulator, you just make the part throttle shifts objectionable, which is very hard on the gear train.

**silverz28camaro** · 09-16-2007, 08:06 PM

i just took another look at my tranny tonight and i noticed that the first clutch back in the input drum has frictions and steels that are not grooved. now i thought that either the frictions had to have grooves or the steels had to have holes in them for proper fluid evacuation during that shift, this is also the only clutch pack that looks slightly burnt. anyone know if this is not right

**Pro Built Automatics** · 09-16-2007, 08:35 PM

GM introduced the Turbulator steels in 1996 for the low/reverse and the reverse input. This was to get better gas mileage, lower running temperatures, more torque to the rear wheels, slightly quicker clutch engagement, etc. The Turbulator holes get rid of the excess fluid between the clutch and steel, and helps keep the clutches apart in the open (released) position (less drag). I have made them for 700R4/4L60E in the overrun steels, (the overrun steels in the 4L80E come that way) and for the 3-4 steels in high HP vehicles. It is hard to say how much they have helped in the overrun position, but in the 3-4 clutch area, it seems to have helped the life of the clutches by a dramatic amount. I am still testing them, and will soon introduce them (in my rebuild kits and transmissions) in the near future if all works out well.

**performabuilt** · 09-20-2007, 06:06 PM

I do take offense, We do not block accumulators and we are far from fly by night considering PerformaBuilt is just the performance brand name of our company and while that part is well semi new at just a little over a year the company itself spans 30 years. I think our track record is quite good, I dont post here alot because we are not a sponsor here but noted this thread and comment while searching the net.And felt a need to reply fly by night incinuates we are no going to be around long but in fact we have been around longer than most of the better known companies you hear of.
Frank at PerformaBuilt
[QUOTE I have seen a couple of broken raptors already and from what some of the builders I hang with say performabuilt is about the same. Find you a good builder who knows his stuff and bget one built.[/QUOTE]

**performabuilt** · 09-20-2007, 06:08 PM

Generally speaking the forward clutch frictions and the 3-4 friction in that drum are not grooved, There are some aftermarket forward frictions I have seen that are however since this clutch is constantly applied in all forward gears and should not need addition cooling since its not cycling I question the wisdom in that since the grooves also reduce friction area.

Originally Posted by silverz28camaro

i just took another look at my tranny tonight and i noticed that the first clutch back in the input drum has frictions and steels that are not grooved. now i thought that either the frictions had to have grooves or the steels had to have holes in them for proper fluid evacuation during that shift, this is also the only clutch pack that looks slightly burnt. anyone know if this is not right

**silverz28camaro** · 09-23-2007, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by performabuilt

Generally speaking the forward clutch frictions and the 3-4 friction in that drum are not grooved, There are some aftermarket forward frictions I have seen that are however since this clutch is constantly applied in all forward gears and should not need addition cooling since its not cycling I question the wisdom in that since the grooves also reduce friction area.

well i just ordered your level 2 tranny and hope that it suits my needs, do you guys use the stock radiator cooler with an auxiliary cooler, i have a fuddle 2800 stall to go with it

**performabuilt** · 09-24-2007, 04:55 PM

We actually prefer unless you live in a reall cold climate -10 f or lower that you bypass the stock cooler in the radiator, However if you live in a climate where its regulary colder than that just make sure to flus the cooler in the RD with the can of flush we supply and install the cooler ither in series cooler after radiator or some people have done well placing them in paraell as and alternative.