Where is the thermostat and housing?

**denegrader** · 06-23-2011, 11:15 AM

Three days ago i noticed the water overflowin to the overflow resovoir and the gauge was little over 210 degrees.
Next day it looked like the water was kind rusty not orange cars 10 years old dont know history just got it.
I drained radiator and added 1 gallon of green anti freeze.
Next day same thing after driving 40 miles 80 degree day freeway and city combo i parked and looked like radiator was low from coolant overflowing to overflow resorvoir again maybe worse.
# 1 Now i may suspect the rusty probably 10 year old dexcool was probably mixing w/ 1 gallon green antifreeze i installed maycausing some clogging in radiator?
#2. Maybe cap aint holding pressure and was original problem?
#3. Maybe i'll have to try and remove engine block plugs and drain?
#4.I removed t stat and replaced after i saw no water come out?
#5.Maybe t stat was borderline?
#6. Maybe i'll donate it?

**KMdef9** · 06-23-2011, 11:36 AM

Pics!

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

**denegrader** · 06-23-2011, 12:32 PM

very good site thank you very much

Yeah i noticed the 1st fan was programmed to run at 160 degree
w new 160 degree t stat.
what abot 2nd fan ?
Should it be programmed at 180. or 200 degree or??

Originally Posted by KMdef9

Pics!

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

**KMdef9** · 06-23-2011, 03:03 PM

Not a problem! Visual aids I find to be the best.

Originally Posted by denegrader

very good site thank you very much

Yeah i noticed the 1st fan was programmed to run at 160 degree
w new 160 degree t stat.
what abot 2nd fan ?
Should it be programmed at 180. or 200 degree or??

I'm not sure, but I'm sure member 'Frost' would know. He's also a site sponsor (professional tuner).

**JayTA98** · 06-24-2011, 09:09 AM

just to make sure i follow you correctly. you drain the radiator only and added a gallon to GREEN antifreeze? Did you did a whole coolant system flush?

The reason I ask is because you have to flush/drain out ALL the dexcool before adding green stuff. It not good at all to mix them.

***SMWS6TA*** · 06-24-2011, 09:41 AM

I saw that I was sure mine was orange.

**denegrader** · 06-24-2011, 12:55 PM

Well coolant was so watery and old if it had originally any coolant it was hard to tell what it was looked mostky like water muddy watter
i drained out ta radiator only 1 gallon and since adding the 1 gallon a green stuff ive had nothin but problems.
i drive 1 0 miles all its rated at 210 and over and fan goes on.
drove 40 miles just now got back gage was over 210 usually it stays at 210
so i turned it off and fan was running then rad water was boiling i opened radiator and it was low gues it threw it out the over flow.
i added 1/2 a gallon or so.
ive pretty much had same issue w/ my 93 z28 anyways still dealing w it

Originally Posted by JayTA98

just to make sure i follow you correctly. you drain the radiator only and added a gallon to GREEN antifreeze? Did you did a whole coolant system flush?

The reason I ask is because you have to flush/drain out ALL the dexcool before adding green stuff. It not good at all to mix them.

**JayTA98** · 06-24-2011, 01:28 PM

if you water was that bad you need to do a whole coolant system flush. You need to remove the tstat and drain the radiator. Pull the reservoir canister and wash it until clean. remove the tstat from its housing and put the housing back with the hose. Remove the block drains. one is on top of the starter and the other behind the alternator. Once drained put the plugs back by hand. Close the radiator drain and fill the radiator with water. Put the A/C all the way to heat(this will circulate the water thru the heater core). Start the engine and let it run for about 2 mins.

Stop the engine and drain the radiator and remove the block plugs again. Repeat this process until the water comes out completely clean. Once that's done. Then reinstall the Tsat in the housing, connect the radiator hose back to the Tstat housing, reinstall the reservoir canister, put some teflon on the engine block plugs and tight them down.

Now you have to either stick with dexcool or if you want to change to green stuff now its the time. Do a 50/50 mix and refill the radiator. Leave the cap off and start the car. Don't add coolant to the reservoir yet. Let the car run for awhile (20 mins or more). Keep an eye in the coolant level, when the car starts to warm up the Tstat will open and the level will drop. Add more 50/50mix. You can put back the radiator cap after that and fill the reservoir.

Take the car for a ride and watch the temp gauge. If its normal then you are done. Check the coolant level for the next week or so in case that there was ir in the system. just add some more if necessary.

**denegrader** · 06-25-2011, 09:05 AM

Good write up thanx
questions.
Is the block plug ya say its (behind the alternator)
ya mean removal of the alternator or just adjust outta the way?
and...
What size tool is needed for these block plugs?
Now this dirty water i guess has lost its capacity to cool?
Well and why do you think the general has 1st fan on at what 220 degrees and the 2nd at what 235 degrees?
Why did the general have a 180 degree t stat instead of a 160 degree t stat
just curious?

Originally Posted by JayTA98

if you water was that bad you need to do a whole coolant system flush. You need to remove the tstat and drain the radiator. Pull the reservoir canister and wash it until clean. remove the tstat from its housing and put the housing back with the hose. Remove the block drains. one is on top of the starter and the other behind the alternator. Once drained put the plugs back by hand. Close the radiator drain and fill the radiator with water. Put the A/C all the way to heat(this will circulate the water thru the heater core). Start the engine and let it run for about 2 mins.

Stop the engine and drain the radiator and remove the block plugs again. Repeat this process until the water comes out completely clean. Once that's done. Then reinstall the Tsat in the housing, connect the radiator hose back to the Tstat housing, reinstall the reservoir canister, put some teflon on the engine block plugs and tight them down.

Now you have to either stick with dexcool or if you want to change to green stuff now its the time. Do a 50/50 mix and refill the radiator. Leave the cap off and start the car. Don't add coolant to the reservoir yet. Let the car run for awhile (20 mins or more). Keep an eye in the coolant level, when the car starts to warm up the Tstat will open and the level will drop. Add more 50/50mix. You can put back the radiator cap after that and fill the reservoir.

Take the car for a ride and watch the temp gauge. If its normal then you are done. Check the coolant level for the next week or so in case that there was ir in the system. just add some more if necessary.

**JayTA98** · 06-25-2011, 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by denegrader

Good write up thanx
questions.
Is the block plug ya say its (behind the alternator)
ya mean removal of the alternator or just adjust outta the way?
and...
What size tool is needed for these block plugs?
Now this dirty water i guess has lost its capacity to cool?
Well and why do you think the general has 1st fan on at what 220 degrees and the 2nd at what 235 degrees?
Why did the general have a 180 degree t stat instead of a 160 degree t stat
just curious?

im not following what do you mean by general but I guess that the name of your car. How are you figuring out this fan temps? are you seeing them on the gauge? The dirty water can cause issues with the gaskets of diffrent parts of your cooling system because is so old. I believe the coolant becomes harmful to the gaskets and will cause them to leak. Since you mix green stuff with dexcool it starts to create a gooey solution and it will mess the cooling system.

The plugs are hex socket size. you need a 17mm hex socket(short) for the one behind the alternator and i believe the other one is a 5/16inch hex socket(long). You dont need to remove the alternator or the starter. They might be real tight the 1st time you take them out. The small passenger side plug is alittle tricky to get back but is not too hard. I normally unscrew it let it drain while holding it close in place. When is done I screw it back and go to the next.

**denegrader** · 06-25-2011, 11:46 AM

G.M. the general.
Im figuring im running usually at 210, lately yesterday it went to maybe 1/8 inch above thats when the fan or 2 were running and i added seemed like a gallon a water that i figured spewed out driving.
Now this was just a day befor i drained 4 qts old looked like rusty water mostly water and added 1 gallon a green stuff .
That situation is why im concerned and now may have to follow advice from experienced f body owners.
The goo also concerns me if indeed their was enough dexcool or even that there was any?

Originally Posted by JayTA98

im not following what do you mean by general but I guess that the name of your car. How are you figuring out this fan temps? are you seeing them on the gauge? The dirty water can cause issues with the gaskets of diffrent parts of your cooling system because is so old. I believe the coolant becomes harmful to the gaskets and will cause them to leak. Since you mix green stuff with dexcool it starts to create a gooey solution and it will mess the cooling system.
The 17 mm and 5/16 in hex 's are the passenger side right and theres another small one? Three total plugs?

The plugs are hex socket size. you need a 17mm hex socket(short) for the one behind the alternator and i believe the other one is a 5/16inch hex socket(long). You dont need to remove the alternator or the starter. They might be real tight the 1st time you take them out. The small passenger side plug is alittle tricky to get back but is not too hard. I normally unscrew it let it drain while holding it close in place. When is done I screw it back and go to the next.

**JayTA98** · 06-25-2011, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by denegrader

G.M. the general.
Im figuring im running usually at 210, lately yesterday it went to maybe 1/8 inch above thats when the fan or 2 were running and i added seemed like a gallon a water that i figured spewed out driving.
Now this was just a day befor i drained 4 qts old looked like rusty water mostly water and added 1 gallon a green stuff .
That situation is why im concerned and now may have to follow advice from experienced f body owners.
The goo also concerns me if indeed their was enough dexcool or even that there was any?

The problem here is that you dont know the history of the coolant type that was in the engine and it sounds like the coolant was way over do for a flush. I advise you to do a whole cooling system flush and then refill with dexcool or green stuff. Is better to be safe. You think you can handle the flush?

**denegrader** · 06-25-2011, 05:48 PM

Well after 6 hours dickin round on it i pulled the t stat, - bone dry 0.
Emtied radiator still green crap comming out,
Flushed over flow tank.
Looke d for the engine block plugs only one i saw was behind and above the alternator buried back there big shiny brass one said forget it.
Looked some more i saw no others.
Looks like water would fall right into the alternator if i could get it out.
Now i filled with plain water idled til gauge was 210 it stayed,
i will drive around tommorrow see what happens to mix it and drain again see if i still see green and keep doing this till i see pure water.
Then i will fill with 50/50 green.

Originally Posted by JayTA98

The problem here is that you dont know the history of the coolant type that was in the engine and it sounds like the coolant was way over do for a flush. I advise you to do a whole cooling system flush and then refill with dexcool or green stuff. Is better to be safe. You think you can handle the flush?

**denegrader** · 06-27-2011, 08:58 PM

Alright i,m still at it I flushed radiator 7 times till green is no longer visible.
I want t o flush the block also Now this 17 mm by alternator you got it out from below right underneath i mean?
Plus ya got the one above starter from underneath also the 5/16 hex with car all jacked up right?
If i removed t stat and put a hose in there would waterpump prevent flow from flushing?
Maybe just run car to 210 degrees to circulate then dump radiatior maybe 6 times till i see no evidence of dexcool and or green anti freeze?

Originally Posted by JayTA98

im not following what do you mean by general but I guess that the name of your car. How are you figuring out this fan temps? are you seeing them on the gauge? The dirty water can cause issues with the gaskets of diffrent parts of your cooling system because is so old. I believe the coolant becomes harmful to the gaskets and will cause them to leak. Since you mix green stuff with dexcool it starts to create a gooey solution and it will mess the cooling system.

The plugs are hex socket size. you need a 17mm hex socket(short) for the one behind the alternator and i believe the other one is a 5/16inch hex socket(long). You dont need to remove the alternator or the starter. They might be real tight the 1st time you take them out. The small passenger side plug is alittle tricky to get back but is not too hard. I normally unscrew it let it drain while holding it close in place. When is done I screw it back and go to the next.

**JayTA98** · 06-28-2011, 05:37 AM

Here you go. This might help you. i just did it yesterday.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157898

**JayTA98** · 06-30-2011, 05:51 PM

any updates? how's the car running?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-30-2011, 07:34 PM

As a side note, your temp gauge is not accurate, at all. Even though it reads 210, your temp could be fluctuating anywhere from 185 to 230. That temp gauge is a dummy gauge and basically has 3 readings...cold, warm, hot.

**denegrader** · 06-30-2011, 11:23 PM

well latest took it out w plain water heater blaring. t stat out 6 miles traffic sunny heater s hot gauge is under 210 little went back home parked no fan on no bubbling over.
I drained water 80% from t stat housing and only 20% left in radiator seems the heater core probably had some green as i was able to detect some green.
Plan tommorro to fill w/ water drive another 6 miles drop t stat hose check for any green and let ya know!

Originally Posted by JayTA98

any updates? how's the car running?

**denegrader** · 06-30-2011, 11:29 PM

dummy gauge sure but w gauge over 210 on gauge it over flowed to tank and fan came on that why i originaly began my action on the cooling system by dropping the original gallon of old dexcool and wrecklessly adding green to guess old dexcool
i was so relieved when the heater pumped out hot air meaning heater core wasn't plugged.
I'll be postin later case aint closed just yet.

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

As a side note, your temp gauge is not accurate, at all. Even though it reads 210, your temp could be fluctuating anywhere from 185 to 230. That temp gauge is a dummy gauge and basically has 3 readings...cold, warm, hot.

**denegrader** · 07-01-2011, 08:58 AM

Originally Posted by denegrader

dummy gauge sure but w gauge over 210 on gauge it over flowed to tank and fan came on that why i originaly began my action on the cooling system by dropping the original gallon of old dexcool and wrecklessly adding green to guess old dexcool
i was so relieved when the heater pumped out hot air meaning heater core wasn't plugged.
I'll be postin later case aint closed just yet.

Today drove 15 minutes w/ fresh water heater on ran near 210 on gauge, parked it was blowin over looked like and hot water was hot goin over to overflow tank when i cracked the rad, cap.
no evidence of green in water just looked like rustyish water more like possibly 10 yera old dexcool.
its hot now i may just fill w/ fresh water again drive again and drain again, soon i will need to put thermostat back and buy dexcool the see what happens i just didnt want dexcool all over the place.
As it is now i can just lett the water kinda rust lookin run all over the driveway area looks that harmless,
Ok put ole t stat in and i t got so hot couldnt get water in i fugure this t stats was original problem ., i took it out drove to oeillys got a murray t stat and housing $21.00 got a galon of dexcool gm aproved .
i will rest and get back to it mayby tuesday but next week probably ill put new t stat and add the dexcool
keep ya posted later