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Thread: Spark Plugs, how hard?
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08-19-2009, 06:38 PM #1
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Spark Plugs, how hard?
How hard is it to put in spark plugs?
Old LT1 car required jacking up, pulling alternator and starter, 2 plugs went in from the bottom on the pass side... driver's side could get 'em all from the top...
(BTW, I tried to use Search for this and I get all kinds of posts but I'm doing something wrong, none of it seemed related to spark plugs)
-T
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08-19-2009, 06:42 PM #2
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...ng+spark+plugs
probably will help
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08-19-2009, 06:56 PM #3
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Depends on how used to your car you are.
I can do plugs on my T/A in about 40-45 minutes now.
First time took about 3 hours.
Find a 1.75" extension. It will be your new best friend.
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08-20-2009, 03:38 AM #4
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08-20-2009, 05:34 AM #5
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Least I'm not seeing "remove the alternator and starter" which was the routine on the LT1 '93 I had...
Thanks all for patience and replies and link.
I'll keep practicing with the Search tool.
Guess I need to plan 3-4 hours on it this weekend... I work slow...
-T
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08-20-2009, 05:38 AM #6
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
do you have headers ?
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08-20-2009, 05:43 AM #7
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Current best: 10.60/126.8- 1998 Pontiac TA WS6
I always have to jack up the car and reach through behind the engine to get the last spark plug on the passenger side, the rest are not that hard.
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08-20-2009, 06:27 AM #8
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08-20-2009, 06:57 AM #9
Yea, enjoy changing those plugs and wires in that ls1 while i sit there and try to figure out how to squeeze a 8.5mm plug wire WITH BOOT through a 4mm hole between the exhaust and manifold.
Actually I don't have that problem any more because on the 9th day god created long tube headers!!!!
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08-21-2009, 08:13 AM #10
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No, factory manifolds.
My old car ('93 LT1) had headers and it made 2-3 spark plugs easier to reach but number 5 required an open end wrench and the only way to get the wrench on was remove the steering linkage...
(that car was just stupid-hard to work on with the headers and blower and tighter packaging!)
-T
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08-21-2009, 03:58 PM #11
Teeeman, good luck bud. I actuallly am fixing to go out to the shop and begin the installation of my Hooker LT'S & new ORY. I am not looking forward but if you want it done correctly you have to do it yourself i guess.
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08-21-2009, 06:24 PM #12
I haven't done this yet...good luck though
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08-22-2009, 05:51 AM #13
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SOM- 2002 SS
Very VERY easy. I did this he first time and kicked myself for not listening to some tips I read halfway through.
On the passenger side... REMOVE the bolts holding the coil packs to the valve cover. unplug the main harness and move it out of the way. See the egr tube coming out of the header? It's 2 measly bolts and the rear part of that metal pipe is rubber so just remove those bolts and bend that pipe out of the way. Once those 2 are out of the way just lean over and change that last plug in 20 seconds. The last 2 bolts on the coil pack are a bit of a pain with a small wrench but I didn't put them back on when I put everything back together so It's even easier next time.
I didn't use a 1.75 extension as suggested but I can imagine i puts the wratchet at a perfect spot. I'll be getting one next time.
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08-22-2009, 03:16 PM #14
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Did it in about 3 hours today.
The driver's side went REALLY quick.
Getting the darn boots loose was 1/2 the battle on the pass side.
I started with number 8 and just jacked the car up... I was putting in a 160 thermostat anyway and already had it lifted.
Number 8 was not bad from below.
Number 6 and 4 were the toughest ones, I did remove the AIR tube and 2 of the coils.
Thanks all for the help and hints and tips... it would have taken much longer without them!!!
I used copper particle anti-seize on the new plugs and the lubing effect made re-install of the new plugs much easier.
-T
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08-24-2009, 05:07 AM #15
just wondering what plugs you used?
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08-24-2009, 05:18 AM #16
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Red- 1998 Trans Am WS6
you will get a little faster everytime you do it, I can do it in about a hour now
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08-25-2009, 08:09 AM #17
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NGK TR6 (slightly colder plugs, shrouded more and the electrodes are shorter, gap is .035"-.040" vs stock in the .050"+ range from what I measured)
Using these plugs along with a catch can and 160 thermostat and tune to adjust for t-stat... I don't want any pre-ignition/detonation in this engine... perhaps the next dyno runs will stay clean as the engine heats up in sequential pulls.
-T
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08-25-2009, 04:46 PM #18
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08-25-2009, 05:08 PM #19
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I ran TR6s in the '93 LT1 with no issues... it was not under boost the vast majority of the time I was driving it daily.
For the LS1, thus far after 2 days of driving (about 60 miles now) around, thus far no issues.
But you are the 2nd person to give similar advice on TR6s for a N/A LS1...
... I'll post up if they give trouble or premature life, etc.
I'll pop one out in 10k miles and see what it look like (check gap, etc.).
Do you know any specifics as to what problems the TR6s have given other folks?
(that way I'll know specifically what to keep a watchful eye on and I'll keep the community posted of course)
-T
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08-26-2009, 04:31 AM #20
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
well remember..the lt1 is a completely different engine then the ls1..only thing they have in common is their displacement..so what works for a lt1 doesnt not correlate to the ls1
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