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Thread: Spark plug install tricks needed
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04-11-2007, 10:11 AM #1
Spark plug install tricks needed
Hey Gang,
I'm getting ready to do my 1st set of plugs in my 99 Z28 convt. I've got the NGK TR55's after reading everyones comments on them. I've got all the required tools (swivels, wobbles, etc.). My question is: the passenger side looks like bloody hell to access, what are some tricks? Should I pull all the coils together? Should I pull the steel EGR tube? Can any of the a/c stuff be moved? Is it easier to go from the bottom? Pull the wheels? Thanks for your input!
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04-11-2007, 10:37 AM #2
Go from the bottom. On my LT1, I dropped the starter to give me more room to snake my arms up there. Sometimes, it helps to have someone else up top to help guide things where they need to go. Good luck.
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04-11-2007, 10:46 AM #3
Loosen Coil Pack
I removed all the bolts holding the coil pack and loosened the rear bolt. You can then access the plugs better after you slide the entire coil pack assy. upward. It won't rotate very far but that little bit is a big deal on the knuckles and hands. I did the rear plug from under because I was replacing the headers at the time. Not sure how difficult the rear is from the top.
2000 Z28 M6, SLP Lid, SLP Bellows, SLP UD,
P&P Maf, TB By-Pass, PS Shorties, LS6 Intake, FAST 78mm TB, Hooker CB, Hurst Billet, Front Tower Brace, small 218/218....527/527....114 cam.
337rwhp/348rwtq
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04-11-2007, 02:27 PM #4
you can do all of the plugs from the top if you remove the coil packs on the passenger side. the driver side is a breeze. i found it easier to do all of the plugs from the top and then doing the #8 plug from the bottom without removing the coil packs..it's mostly about angles. get ready to have scratched arms and hands from hell. learning which way to twist your body and arms for each individual plug is a big help for future changes. i went from doing it in 6 1/2 hours to 35 minutes by the time I sold my car.
Sold- 2001 SS 11.87 @120.5 Mph 465 rwhp 613 ft lbs of tq (gas).NOW: 93 5.0 Notchback, 347 stroker daily driver with A/C and P/S. Lentech Tranny 3000 stall, MT Drag radials. 11.91@113 on motor.-10.90's @ 123(1.51 60'), on a little 75 dry shot. 345 rwhp(motor)- 426 rwhp on gas.
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04-13-2007, 03:58 AM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- Vicksburg. Ms.
- Posts
- 461
pewter- 99 Trans Am
Plug removel is alot harder on a ls1 than a lt1, frist on the ls1 there is no way you will get the #8 plug out under the car, catts will no allow it . believe me, me and other ls1 owners have found this out. The top is the only way to get it.
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04-13-2007, 04:36 PM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
- Posts
- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
I remove coil pack AND valve cover on the passenger side.
Normally just over an hour. Used to be about 45 minutes, but since I added the temp sensor it gets in the way for #8.
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04-13-2007, 10:42 PM #7
On my 99' I got the #8 from underneath. On my 98' I couldn't get to it from underneath so I removed the coil pack. Also get some AIR gaskets so you can move the AIR tubes out of the way. Makes it a lot easier.
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04-14-2007, 06:28 AM #8
at the risk of sounding dumb, is AIR the large steel EGR tube that goes from exhaust manifold to exhaust manifold and loops over the intake?
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04-14-2007, 08:42 AM #9
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04-16-2007, 06:17 AM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Location
- ATX
- Posts
- 22
RED- 98 T/A
i did some on a 2000 ss with only removing the air tubes and thats it, took me about 30 min to do all 8 from the top... no problemo here???just wear some latex gloves
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