Solid mounts for a daily driver?

**Z28_Driver** · 12-08-2011, 05:32 AM

My stock engine mounts have had enough. I am seriously considering spohn solid mounts. Does anyone on here run these in a street car? A daily driver?
If you have these or other solid mounts in your 4th gen, please let me know of your experiences. I will be doing this over the winter, most likely after the 1st of the year.

**ls1camino** · 12-08-2011, 05:51 AM

I have them on my T/A, and I drive her to work on nice days, and it's fine. I like having the motor tied directly to the k-member, no give and no power-loss though the mounts. It's also awesome to rev the car and have the car move on the suspension from the torque.

**pajeff02** · 12-08-2011, 08:35 AM

I have a set of poly mounts to install. Just couldn't bring myself to go with solid mounts, although I do like the look of the UMI pieces: 1998-2002 GM F-Body LSX Solid Aluminum Motor Mounts [2323] - $129.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

**10spokess** · 12-08-2011, 09:07 AM

I have the Spohn solid mounts/poly trans mount in my car and I drive it every day, gotta say your car feels a lot more solid, and takes the turns better as well. The best thing about it is getting on it and feeling the vibrations of the motor. I don't mind it at all.

**1WickedWS6** · 12-13-2011, 08:51 PM

What is the difference between the poly and the solid mounts? Like what are the advantages of each? I'm sure mine are fine but I figured I'll put new ones in when I go to put my headers in this winter since everything will be apart and I'm not sure which ones to get. Thanks!

**ls1camino** · 12-14-2011, 04:10 AM

Originally Posted by 1tacticalSOB

What is the difference between the poly and the solid mounts? Like what are the advantages of each? I'm sure mine are fine but I figured I'll put new ones in when I go to put my headers in this winter since everything will be apart and I'm not sure which ones to get. Thanks!

The stock mounts look like this:

The top bart bolts to the stand with a bolt that runs through the center. The inside bushing is rubber in stock form.

Poly replacement motor mounts look like this:

You take the top part of the stock motor mount, drill out the rivots, replace the rubber with the poly, and bolt it back together using the supplied bolts. This is a great improvement over stock, and will prevent a little hp from being lost through the bushings.

This is the first type of solid motor mounts developed by Spohn:

It completely replaces the entire stock motor mount assembly. These will only work with stock k-members and Spohn k-members, because all other aftermarket k-members have the bottom part of the motor mount already welded to the k-member.

This is the second type of solid motor mounts:

This is a direct replacement for the stock upper mount and retains the stock lower mount. These types of mounts are sold by UMI, Spohn, and some others. These are very new to the market.

**ls1camino** · 12-14-2011, 04:11 AM

The biggest advantage with Solid Motot Mounts is the retention of almost all power made, because none is lost through the rubber/poly bushings.

**1WickedWS6** · 12-14-2011, 10:34 AM

So you're saying that solid ones are better because you don't lose power through them but does your ride quality suffer substantially from these? Or is it not that noticeable?

**ls1camino** · 12-14-2011, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by 1tacticalSOB

So you're saying that solid ones are better because you don't lose power through them but does your ride quality suffer substantially from these? Or is it not that noticeable?

Substantially, no...the car itself vibrates slightly more...the rubber/poly dampens the motor from the rest of the car.

**1WickedWS6** · 12-14-2011, 11:08 AM

Gotcha. Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna go for the poly ones anyway. Does anyone have any tips for installing these that could help me out?

**mike171562** · 12-14-2011, 11:43 AM

It sucks getting them to line up due to the Poly's being so much thicker than the stockers. Some say do one side at a time. I did mine when I had the heads off and it was a real bitch. Either do one side at a time or get one side in and loosen all the bolts as far as they will go to allow enough play to get the other side in. You have to put a jack under the motor, but put a piece of wood on it or you'll bust a hole in your oilpan.

**1WickedWS6** · 12-14-2011, 01:00 PM

Wow still a bitch even with the heads off. I thought it'd be a little better with just my headers off but I guess not. I do plan on doing just one at a time. I'm just gonna have to plan for an entire day I guess. Thanks

**Z28_Driver** · 12-19-2011, 03:24 PM

Thanks for all the input. I will order the solid mounts shortly. Ill post a few pics once they are installed.

**devildogws6** · 11-25-2012, 08:37 AM

I am interested to see how you like them!! I am in this debate as well

**04yellowjacket** · 11-26-2012, 05:48 PM

i plan on putting in some solid aircraft aluminum ones. 90$ a set. should make my gto shake like a mo fo with the 598/605 lift cam in her.

**Mike396** · 12-23-2012, 04:28 PM

I was going to do solid mounts but just decided on going with the polys. My decision was based on how easy it will be when I have to pull the trans to do the clutch. The solid mounts will make it a pain when trying to lower the trans to get the upper bell housing bolts. I think you would basically have to at least partially remove the solid mounts to get the trans to drop.

**98TransAmWs-6** · 12-24-2012, 01:53 PM

Originally Posted by Mike396

I was going to do solid mounts but just decided on going with the polys. My decision was based on how easy it will be when I have to pull the trans to do the clutch. The solid mounts will make it a pain when trying to lower the trans to get the upper bell housing bolts. I think you would basically have to at least partially remove the solid mounts to get the trans to drop.

I have solids. How would you need to partially remove them to remove the transmission when they are attached to the member and engine?

**Mean Green Z28** · 12-24-2012, 02:15 PM

Please do a dyno comparison between stock mounts and solid mounts and show me where youre losing HP ... ??? Sounds like ricer talk to me ... total BS

If anything, you take out a wee bit of driveline slack and a failure point (in the case of installing solid tower mounts) and induce a whole load of vibration into the chassis to get a bit more seat of your pants experience.

Its all about driveline slack vs. occupancy comfort.

**Mean Green Z28** · 12-24-2012, 02:16 PM

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I have solids. How would you need to partially remove them to remove the transmission when they are attached to the member and engine?

You need to tilt the back of the engine downwards to be able to get to the top transmission bellhousing bolts and a solid (or near solid poly mount that give little slack) doesnt afford that

**jiveass** · 12-24-2012, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by That Guy 2-1

Please do a dyno comparison between stock mounts and solid mounts and show me where youre losing HP ... ??? Sounds like ricer talk to me ... total BS

If anything, you take out a wee bit of driveline slack and a failure point (in the case of installing solid tower mounts) and induce a whole load of vibration into the chassis to get a bit more seat of your pants experience.

Its all about driveline slack vs. occupancy comfort.

after switching to just a poly trans mount, i noticed a major difference in the power being put to the ground when i stomped it....after i did the engine mounts, i realized i will never go back to factory style mounts.