re-use harmonic balancer bolt?

**mrpuma** · 02-11-2007, 04:12 AM

Has anyone ever re-used the harmonic balancer bolt with some loc-tite? Any issues? Thanks,

**89LX** · 02-11-2007, 05:00 AM

Mine came with a new bolt. I would have used the old one with lock tight. Pretty heavy duty bolt with lots of torque IMO.

**INMY01TA** · 02-11-2007, 06:49 AM

Dont!

**Y2KPewterSS** · 02-11-2007, 07:14 AM

Spend the $5, go to a stealership and buy a new one. The factory bolt is a torque to yield and once its been removed its done, same way with the factory head bolts.

**Mr. Luos** · 02-11-2007, 08:39 AM

You stand the chance at jacking up the crank by using the old bolt.

As mentioned...they are torque to yield. They 'stretch' when torqued down.
Is not use-able after that.

**mrr23** · 02-11-2007, 06:02 PM

as stated, you are supposed to use a new one every time. i have reused mine before.

**1BADDLS1** · 02-13-2007, 05:04 AM

take the gamble if you want but $5 is worth it... or pick up an ARP for $30-ish and reuse as many time as you like

**Killer_bluebird** · 02-13-2007, 06:30 AM

Originally Posted by 1BADDLS1

take the gamble if you want but $5 is worth it... or pick up an ARP for $30-ish and reuse as many time as you like

I have the ARP Crank Bolt and they are an a nice stout piece! I did have to Buy a 12 point wide walled (heavy duty) socket just to put this in. You can't use a regular socket as you will probably break it. Don't ask me how I know this.

**mrr23** · 02-13-2007, 08:44 AM

Originally Posted by Killer_bluebird

I have the ARP Crank Bolt and they are an a nice stout piece! I did have to Buy a 12 point wide walled (heavy duty) socket just to put this in. You can't use a regular socket as you will probably break it. Don't ask me how I know this.

hey, how do you know this?

dang it, you said not to.

**lrader99** · 02-14-2007, 09:48 PM

on the subject of the crank bolt...why did GM make a torque to yeild bolt but then if you look at the service manual it says to tighten to 240 ft lb loosen it then retorque to i think 37 ft lbs + some degrees what was the point of this...once its torqued its already stretched...dont quote me on the numbers i dont have my manual in front of me...i can get the exact numbers if someone really wants them... also does someone know of an easier way to put a crank pulley on these cars...by the sound of GM's torquing method they are not using a balancer installer...but ive got the driveshaft and rearend out of the car...and even in 6th which has the most gear reduction it does not have enough clamping force to hold to crank that bolt to 240 ft lbs plus i cant pull the crank pulley up all the way...hell id use a compressor and the old bolt just to pull it up on there but i have no power in the storage unit to power my compressor...is the best way just going to be to borrow or by a balancer installer....
BTW i dont mean to jack someones thread. i figured this might all be pertenent (sp?) info

**Killer_bluebird** · 02-14-2007, 11:22 PM

I used one of these when I installed my balancer. It worked great. I had to put a lot of muscle to press my underdrive pulley all the way in. Enough to taper the thick washer that is welded to the outer nut piece.

**Mr. Luos** · 02-15-2007, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by lrader99

on the subject of the crank bolt...why did GM make a torque to yeild bolt but then if you look at the service manual it says to tighten to 240 ft lb loosen it then retorque to i think 37 ft lbs + some degrees what was the point of this...once its torqued its already stretched...dont quote me on the numbers i dont have my manual in front of me...i can get the exact numbers if someone really wants them... also does someone know of an easier way to put a crank pulley on these cars...by the sound of GM's torquing method they are not using a balancer installer...but ive got the driveshaft and rearend out of the car...and even in 6th which has the most gear reduction it does not have enough clamping force to hold to crank that bolt to 240 ft lbs plus i cant pull the crank pulley up all the way...hell id use a compressor and the old bolt just to pull it up on there but i have no power in the storage unit to power my compressor...is the best way just going to be to borrow or by a balancer installer....
BTW i dont mean to jack someones thread. i figured this might all be pertenent (sp?) info

Use old the old bolt to tighten/force the pulley to 240 ft/lbs.

Then thread in your new bolt and tighten to 37 or whatever it is.

I was able to move my car forward in 4th gear getting the pulley torqued down. Was a little interesting.

Can you get to the flywheel??? You can get a locking tool on it to hold the crank in place.

**lrader99** · 02-15-2007, 04:46 PM

no, i cant...still have the trans on...i may just wait till i put the rear end and driveshaft in...the way i took it off was stikc it in 6th and pull the ebrake...that kept it all from moving i didnt know if that would be too much stress on the drivetrain but i was taking it all back apart and reaplacing ujoints and such anyways so i didnt care at the time i just dont want to brake anything putting it all back together ya know what i mean...hate to spend all the money weve put in the car and break something stupid