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Thread: question about 160 thermosthat
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11-09-2006, 10:10 PM #1
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question about 160 thermosthat
i just put my 160 thermosthat in and changed the coolant all that bs and i have one of those crappy hypertech programmers and i programmed it and my car still runs a lil below 210 degrees maybe a lil lower than before is that normal or no?
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11-09-2006, 11:14 PM #2
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YJ- 04 GTO M6
Move to a northern state and you will run cooler lol.
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11-10-2006, 07:34 AM #3
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
The gauge is not accurate so you don't have a clue what temp. you were running before compared to now anyway. I am not sure why they keep pushing the cold stat. for the LS1. It comes with a 187 and they make the power up in the 180's so it's a waste of time IMO.
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11-10-2006, 07:44 AM #4Ratdaddy07Guest
In Michigan maybe in La. as ass hot as it is we just want to make sure it is constantly trying to cool we need all the help we can get. The guage is off though put it on a hand held and you are probably near that 180.
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11-10-2006, 07:47 AM #5
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A lower temp thermostat will not lower operating engine temps. It just opens up earlier...the coolant and your engine will still reach/operate at normal temps...
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11-10-2006, 08:03 AM #6
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
That's what I was getting at, stop at one light after at operating temp. and it will heat up. It is only cooler for a short time.
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11-13-2006, 06:37 AM #7
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11-13-2006, 07:00 AM #8
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Silver/Black- 2002 Camaro SS Cnvt
You're better off with a stock 'stat and sensible fan
settings, than a cold 'stat and hot fans. You're going
to see a -greater- temp swing with the new 'stat than
before; 175F to 230F or so, rather than 194 - 230.
Can't tune well for that kind of range, especially with
a limited tool like the Hype-tech.
Try FAN1 (low) 177 on / 176 off and FAN2 179 on / 178
off. This will give you pretty stable operating temps
(except in summer, when the wimpy radiator runs out
of heat shedding capacity with the A/C on). The low
fan will run nearly full time, the high speed will kick in
whenever coolant temp begins to come up from load.
If it bugs you, you can change it from here. I've run
that way for years now.
Ignore the gauge anyway.
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11-13-2006, 07:36 AM #9
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
Do you really want to be running a fan almost non-stop and does the electrical load from fans running eliminate any gain from the cooler temp?
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11-13-2006, 07:59 AM #10
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Navy Blue Metallic- `98 Formula M6 HdTp
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11-15-2006, 05:51 PM #11
On my gauge, my temp usually hovered around 220*. Now, it's around 170*. And yes, I know that the temp gauges are crappy, but when that needle starts passing 280* THAT get's my attention. On average days, the heat is not a problem, but during those hot summer days around here, a drive from San Jo' to the beach, will make my car run a lot hotter; having the fans come on earlier helps a lot.
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11-15-2006, 05:59 PM #12
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red- 1994 Camaro Z28
what he said
All the t/stat can do is keep the coolant UP to that minimum...it cannot help the cooling system be more efficient, otherwise. I had a cooling problem and it was part radiator, but part water pump!!! Dropped my running temp 25 degrees!!! O yeah ..94 Z...low miles but driven year round
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11-15-2006, 07:23 PM #13
I justed swapped for a 160* and now my temp gauge rarely goes over ~175*-180* with no tune. It used to go 200*+ after 20 minutes of driving, but now it stays cool.
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11-15-2006, 09:42 PM #14
My fans hardly ever run even In the hot FL weather and I run a 160 t-stat I don't remember exactly what I set my fans at but for the most part they don't come on all that much other than in bad traffic and when the A/C is on. In the cooler weather it rare for them to come on at all.
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11-16-2006, 07:27 AM #15
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
98 and older gauges are more accurate, the 99 and up are dummied to not move much and stay close to the 210 markings even when the stat is 187.
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11-16-2006, 03:06 PM #16
I have one and I noticed a huge difference in temperature. from 220 to 190. The 190 is the highest it has ever gotten in oklahoma city with summers that exceeded 100 degrees every year so far.
Black 98 Z-28, whisper air lid, ported polished descreened maf, slp smooth bellow, modified tb, 04 gto plug wires, ngk TR6 plugs, Megan underdrive pulley, cold fusion nitrous kit, k&n, removed cats, glass pack , casper o2 simulators, 3.73 gears, Burnt up 4l-60e, drilled and slotted rotors,
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11-16-2006, 03:25 PM #17
Did you guys know that you can make your own 160 degree thermostat out of a stock one?????? Just need to put a 1/8" shim behind where the thermostat sits on the center section....if you pull one apart you'll see where I'm talking about......I used an old handle off a chevy valve cover bolt and it fits perfectly........and works like a charm! And costs wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy less!
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11-16-2006, 07:14 PM #18
Did you test it in heated water in a saucepan?
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11-17-2006, 09:21 AM #19
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11-17-2006, 12:36 PM #20
Yes because MOST peolple don't realize that it will actually run cooler witha 180 versus a 160...............Just a quick explanation.....With a 160 the thermostat stays open NONE stop....Which means the coolant is flowing through the rad. all the time.....So with a 180 it will shut and hold the coolant in the rad. for a min or two before it opens back up so it gives the rad. a chance actually cool the coolant before it flows again.
160's don't work worth a s__t.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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