New to the LS scene

[Lawhead]

Well get my car tomorrow and like any gear head going faster is the name of the game.

Car is bone stock except the Borla muffler and built T56.

I'm looking into the Lid mod of course but when people say the lid are they purely only getting that ONE piece or is there more to the intake set up? And does anyone have back to back dyno runs with stock set up then the lid? Ive done research and seen people claiming gains just south of 15 RWHP and that seems pretty insane. and between the muffler lid and a tune what kind of numbers do these LS T56 cars put down in the 300 RWHP range?

Take it easy on me I'm just an old LT1 guy converting my knowledge to this side of the fence lol

[FinZ28]

Typically when people refer to modding their intake, they are referring to the air filter housing itself. This mod also removes the resonator box located on the intake tract. You can buy the lid by itself without having to buy anything else for it to work. Companies like SLP also sell kits including the lid and cold air intake, which is basically a metal duct that mounts under the air filter and draws fresh air from under the car in front of the radiator. I have both the SLP lid and cold air intake on my car. Companies like Volant and K&N also make air intake setups that completely remove the air lid type setup.

If and when you upgrade to an aftermarket air lid, stick with a good-quality paper air filter. The oil used on the K&N air filter can end up on the MAF (located directly behind the air lid) and cause more harm than good.

Welcome to the site. Post up some pics of your ride!

[2002ssslp]

No way you are going to get 15 RWHP from a lid but with a complete SLP set up with cold air, Blackwing lid and a Frost tune and your exhaust I think 300 RWHP is close. I have to disagree with Chris on the K&N filter. If you use it right out of the package you will not have any issues but when you clean them and reoil the filter people tend to go overboard with the oil and do not let them dry completely. Out of the package they are dry and if you redo them correctly you should not have a problem. I guess I just opened a can of worms so let me have it.

[Lawhead]

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THere is the car pick it up tomorrow

[SMWS6TA]

Keith you are just as correct as Chris is. Like you said out of the box your good, but 99% of the ppl over do the oiling.

For most ppl its a hassle to read directions and more importantly follow them.

I'm not bashing anyone directly, just stating an observation.


Also OP - Those numbers are skeptic at best. Most likely a 5- 10 bump @ most.

Not saying don't get it (I have a SLP lid), but it is a piece of the puzzle to making your car run better.

[Lawhead]

For what you can get a lid for any gains seem pretty much worth the price

[SMWS6TA]

Yes, almost anything is better then the stock lid.

It is restrictive and the baffles are a joke.

Most ppl get a SLP type lid. If I had a WS6 style hood I would consider the Volant air lid for myself. I just like the way it looks and incorporates the ram air.



There are several free mods that you can do to help squeeze a little HP and most are visual mods that clean up the engine bay.


Air mod - Chris mentions this - it removes some extra plastic in the tray that the filter sits in to give the air a more direct flow and a wider opening. Warning - you will need to change your filter more often. My opinion - Doing this mod is like taking asthma away from a kid and letting him breath better.

Porting the TB - If you know how and have a spare TB then yes go for it. However if not look up S3 throttle bodies form S2 performance. I and a couple of others are using them and have just as good of performance gains as BBK 80mm at 1/2 the cost.

EGR and Air Pump Delete - Best done when doing headers but nothing wrong with doing it ahead of time. This stuff is not needed. How so, they removed it on the 01-02 years. Total POS. It will need a tune to keep the CES light from coming on. You can also remove the air pump fuse from the fuse box to turn it off.

Throttle Body Coolant Bypass - There is a coolant hose that runs into and out of the TB on the body side. A couple of bucks at Lowes or any hardware store and you can bypass it. It was design to preheat the air through the TB. Why? no clue, Someone at GM forgot that engines love cold air and perform better.

Here is a link that describes most of them in detail

LS-1 F-Body Free Modifications - GM High-Tech Performance Magazine



This one is not talked about in the article I attached.

Wire Hide Mod - This hides the cables that are on the left (passenger) side of the engine bay. Seriously, GM got very lazy and just sat them there.








(I need to get newer pics of my engine bay, it's not this dirty I swear)

And most importantly Don't be afraid to ask here. No one should tell you to search for it and the Mods/Tech guys help out as much as we can. We were all Newbs at some time (well except maybe Sarge).

[Knight]

Agree with Scott. Watch getting traction with the added power. A stock 10 bolt won't like it. They don't like it stock for that matter. Look into upgrading to a 12 bolt, 9", or dana 60. I'd also recommend sub frame connectors, and relocating the torque arm off the tailshaft of the tranny, if it's not already.

[SMWS6TA]

Walt I was waiting for the mod bug to bite and him asking about bolt ons before I started throwing all that at him....

[Knight]

You gonna leave him stranded with a busted tailshaft or rear??!! You're mean! j/k

Seriously, if the OP goes easy on the car, those things don't need to be done right away. It's just hard to go easy with these cars......

[SMWS6TA]

With what he's asking I can't see how he could. I mean hell, look what I've done and well I'm not going to screw myself by tempting fate so I'll just shut-up now.


I hope I can work on the 8.8 this weekend. I'm ready for mock up and hopefully some welding.




Lawhead - What Walt is me about is that we need to warn you about these cars. The POS 10 bolt in these things are weak (putting it mildly) and have been know to go out under stock power. Mostly M6's because we can launch harder then our A4 brothers/sisters.

If you seriously want to mod the hell out of it you're going to need to upgrade the rear and get a decent suspension setup in order to plant the power to the road. This car should have come with a GM 12 bolt or a Ford 9". M6's seem to like the 9" more then the 12 bolt? Don't know why because the 12 bolt is very similar to a 8.8 Ford rear.

[Lawhead]

I know about the 10 bolt and all its horror stories lol it won't see any hard launches till there is a 9 or S60 under it for sure got some more pics here as well

[SMWS6TA]

Nice looking formula