Motor Mounts.

**SStriker** · 08-07-2007, 08:28 AM

I noticed while removing my Tranny that my motor has ALOT of play in it so i want to replace the mounts. WIll this be easier with the tranny out? What else will i have to remove to get them installed?

**SStriker** · 08-09-2007, 06:34 PM

OMG! Spent most of my dad working on car. First installed Tranny cooler Dope Style beucase of my CAI. Then i mocked up the Torque Arm Bushing. Finally started the Motor mounts. 7 hours later i have half my motor appart and the passagers side in. This is one hard job!

**jerry trans am** · 08-10-2007, 11:13 AM

Oh its a pain in the ass.
But i think it was worth it.

good luck.

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 06:22 PM

Bla! Had to remove drivers manifold and Cat. Broke Cats studs. Broke on stud on Manifold. Do i have to put them back in before i bolt motor back down? Mount is on block. Mount hole wont line up good enough to put bolt back through so i screw driver is taking its place at the moment. O and my dad Snaped on Mount Bolt in the block so i am only going to be able to run 3 on the drivers side! WHAT A FUCKING BITCH!!!!!! I hope to finish it tommarow. I want to kill myself.

I did remove EGR and A.I.R. Today though and made custom blockoffs.... Atleast something went right today!

**Mr. Luos** · 08-10-2007, 06:30 PM

What mounts did you go with?

Do you have a strut tower brace?

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 06:42 PM

Went with prothane(PTP-7-512BL), No strut tower brace. Yesterday when i finished the passager side both holes lined up.. Now with both mounts in it wont

**Mr. Luos** · 08-10-2007, 06:50 PM

I had the motor out when I did the mounts. And it was STILL a royal pain.

Good luck, and be patient.

Do you ever plan on getting a strut tower brace?? If so, ask around about fitment with those prothane mounts. They lift the motor up ever so slightly. I got VERY lucky when I put mine back on after the swap. It didn't crack my FAST intake, just chipped some of the lettering off. I had to space out the brace.

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 06:54 PM

DAMN thanks for the heads up. Yeah im not sure if i will be getting one or not. I got other things i need to order first like SFCs.

**Mr. Luos** · 08-10-2007, 06:55 PM

To be honest...the F-Body doesn't need one. It wouldn't make a damn bit of difference.
Strut tower braces are under the hood appearance mods.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 08-10-2007, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

To be honest...the F-Body doesn't need one. It wouldn't make a damn bit of difference.
Strut tower braces are under the hood appearance mods.

And good to lean on

Me and my best friend attempted to put prothane motor mounts on our buddies '01 WS6 2 years ago when we did his motor swap. Easily the worst nightmare I have ever experienced on a 4th gen f-body, and there is next to nothing that I have not personally done on a 4th gen f-body. I have prothane mounts for my Camaro when I do the heads/cam but have serious doubts about attempting them. I am strongly considering doing the drivers side only. We broke one of the studs on the k-member trying to get it to line up. We got so aggravated at them motor mounts, we literally threw them SOB's across the street and they never made it onto the car. Its one of the very very few things I might actually pay someone else to do to my car

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 08:39 PM

Well they are both In the Car so im going to make them work... But damn they are a bitch!

This isnt my first time swapping motor mounts into a car. But these fbodies are a whole different beast from anything ive works on before.

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 09:43 PM

Do you think losening up the Motor mount to Block bolts might help get the 18 mm lined up?

and should i get the exhuast manifold in before i bolt the motor down or will it be alright to wait until its bolted down?

**Y2KPewterSS** · 08-10-2007, 09:49 PM

Originally Posted by SStriker

Do you think losening up the Motor mount to Block bolts might help get the 18 mm lined up?

and should i get the exhuast manifold in before i bolt the motor down or will it be alright to wait until its bolted down?

Wait till the motor is bolted down before you put the manifolds back in.

**SStriker** · 08-10-2007, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS

Wait till the motor is bolted down before you put the manifolds back in.

Alright good. Just wanted to make sure. DIdnt want to bolt the motor down and get everything put back on just to find i have to take it back off to put manifold on.

**jerry trans am** · 08-11-2007, 10:21 AM

Try lossening thre tranny mount a little. That should give u a little more play to line the bolt up. Don't worry thou you'll get it. Mine were the same way. And i notice u said that u had broke off one of the bolts in the block. i did the same shit.

**cobrahunter** · 08-11-2007, 12:46 PM

Check all your motor mounts if you can. A while back, while getting my headers installed, the techs discovered a crack in my block. I took it to the dealership (still under warranty) and they discovered it was due to a faulty/deffective motor mount. Fortunately the decided to cover the costs of a replacement engine. Even though the cause was not technically covered by the warranty, they could tell I'm not abusive to it (my DD). Got a replacement engine w/ 40K miles for $500.

**SStriker** · 08-11-2007, 01:35 PM

Got the motor mounts in finnnally. AC compressor and Alternator are back in, belts back on. I have no trans in the car at the moment so it wasnt that. I losened both sides and we just pryed ALOT lol

I still have to reinstall the manifold but i need to get a new gasket and some studs FIrst...

There should be a warning lable on those damn Motor mounts!!! lol

**F&Ybodlover** · 09-28-2007, 10:43 AM

I think both of my mounts are cracked( was like this when I bought the car last month)

when I give it some gass off the line..it feels like the engine moves slightly, with the hood open, you can see the engine move on both sides. I've changed tranny mounts on third gens before, nothing to it...figured wasn't that much harder...I guess I was wrong.

**F&Ybodlover** · 09-28-2007, 12:59 PM

The only place I can find the whole mount is through the dealer and $95 or through Spohn at $145 http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1402

but I can get polyurethane inserts around $50 from them...I don't know if the bushings are just worn or the housing is cracked.

**Castle** · 09-28-2007, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

To be honest...the F-Body doesn't need one. It wouldn't make a damn bit of difference.
Strut tower braces are under the hood appearance mods.

Your input on the LS1 threads here is valuable & a lot of people here know you of all people know your sh!t, but I don't think I agree with you on this one.

I used to take this really sharp turn in my car at approx 35mph, it felt like the car was about to lose it every time. I added SLP's strut tower brace when I had my skinny 16/45/245's on my car. Everytime I tried that sharp turn after, I was able to bring it up to 45mph comfortably.

I could be totally wrong &/or loco, but in my opinion, with a car that already corners like crap, everything helps!

P.S. I just switched up my SLP Tower Brace for the Hotchkis Polished Dual Support Strut Tower Brace, but not sure yet if the new Brace supports my claim even further as my car is in the shop...