Cracked Radiator... any non plastic replacement suggestions?

[manibot]

This is the second time this problem has occurred. Different TA though. The first time I replaced it with a stock radiator. This time I want to get an all aluminum radiator that isn't going to break the bank. I want a reliable one that isn't going to crack in two years. I'm not racing or anything as it is my daily driver. Anybody know of a good all aluminum radiator?

[manibot]

I've heard of
Be Cool - Be Cool
Griffin Aluminum Radiator: Griffinrad.com | radiators, fans , maximum cooling

and also Holden... Anybody know of any others or feedback on reliability?

[Firebirdjones]

I've used both Be-Cool and Griffin. Both work great. Spendy but better quality. Some things to keep in mind when shopping aluminum radiators.

Be-Cool and Griffin run larger tube diameter (usually 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" tube) and when used as a 2 row with that large of a tube diameter, they are as or more efficient than a 4 row copper radiator. They also use a much tighter (higher) "fin per inch" count. I run a Griffin currently in my 454 chevelle. Makes nearly 650 hp and runs in traffic all day with 100+ ambient temps and a stock mechanical fan. Never gets over 175 degrees, about 10 degrees cooler than the stock 4 core copper ever did, and doing it with a 2 core.

Some of the knock off aluminum radiators won't have these features, and I've been a victim of this unfortunately. Stay away from the cheaper ebay radiators such as Champion. I run one of these in my 72 blazer with an LS engine. It's a 3 row aluminum that is supposed to be good for 700 hp,,,(ya right) It has very small tubes that measure maybe 3/4" and a very small fin count. It doesn't cool any better than the stock 4 core copper radiator I took out. And to top that off, the driver side tank started seeping after 2 months.

Just a heads up, hope that helps.


Oh and I agree, go for a complete aluminum radiator, and rid yourself of the cheap plastic tank setup. Never understood that one GM.