BBK Manifold & TB good deal or get FAST

**kenny_hill33** · 02-04-2008, 05:13 PM

I found a BBK Manifold and TB for under $700. I know about the heat soak but is it really that much of a problem? In Richard Holdener's Ls1 dyno book with bolt-ons the BBK outperformed the FAST, maybe it was the FAST 78 who knows. Would you go for the deal or save up another $400-500 for the FAST which might not put up a gain or if so who knows it might not be much.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-04-2008, 05:25 PM

HEAT!!
How big of motor do you have? Do you even need a 90mm?
Cam,heads,ect......

**kenny_hill33** · 02-04-2008, 06:56 PM

stock motor...only mods are the lid, ultra z hood and flowmaster cat-back with the cats taken out...but i'm going to be ordering QTP long-tubes and Y pipe on friday. h/c lader around but I have some extra money so that's why i'm asking about the manifold.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-04-2008, 07:05 PM

Originally Posted by kenny_hill33

stock motor...only mods are the lid, ultra z hood and flowmaster cat-back with the cats taken out...but i'm going to be ordering QTP long-tubes and Y pipe on friday. h/c lader around but I have some extra money so that's why i'm asking about the manifold.

Why not buy a Nitrous kit for half the price and get 4 times the performance?

Also is the car an auto?

You still haven't had the ECU tuned?

Sub frame connectors help the car actually drive better besides helping the power get to the ground.

**C&Cbird** · 02-04-2008, 07:15 PM

I wouldn't worry about an intake until you are ready for heads and cam honestly. You'll need some of that money after you put the headers on to tune the car to get more power with that mod. Spend the money on nitrous, better tires, suspension stuff, something other than an intake until you are ready for head/cam.

**kenny_hill33** · 02-04-2008, 07:15 PM

Thought about nitrous but would like to build it before I consider that. The car is a 6 speed and no the ECU isn't tuned yet. Wanted to get it tuned after the parts I decide to get for the car besides the headers. Would you consider any other parts besides the manifold? Already got 4.10s Spec stage 2 clutch B&M short throw, along with the parts I already listed.

**kenny_hill33** · 02-04-2008, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by C&Cbird

I wouldn't worry about an intake until you are ready for heads and cam honestly. You'll need some of that money after you put the headers on to tune the car to get more power with that mod. Spend the money on nitrous, better tires, suspension stuff, something other than an intake until you are ready for head/cam.

Yeah that sounds like something to do, just wait until h/c. Any parts you would consider, my tires are almost new some tread off but still has alot left. Thanks for postin that. But what would you do if you was in my shoes?

**LS2Tuner** · 02-04-2008, 07:45 PM

Yeah don't waste your money on that Spec POS!
You can get the Mcleod Twin Disc now for a great price and NO comparison.
It has lighter than stock pedal and is good to 800+ rwhp.
Do this first with sub frame connectors and a pair of V-6 rear springs from your local junk yard.

Here you can find some more info on the clutch I'm referring to.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74035
The stock motor loves the bottle. It will handle a 150 shot for years of great fun as long as it is tuned properly (A/F) and not banging the rev limiter on the bottle.

The gears will make a huge difference also but unless you plan on running drag radials all the time it will just blow the tires off on regular radials. Do the $40-50 spring change and you'll be thanking me afterwords. It make a huge difference on the street. Your car is stiff as a truck in the rear right now which is NO good for weight transfer or drag racing.

Get a good tune done after the headers and the clutch and you'll be happy for a min.

**stephen02ws6** · 02-04-2008, 08:47 PM

when you do head and cam put the fast on. you can get it cheaper than 1200.

**C&Cbird** · 02-04-2008, 09:36 PM

A properly broken in Spec is not a POS. I put a Spec stage 3 in my 400+whp car in 2003, it survived over 70,000 miles on it, I broke three rearends, and did tons and tons of 2 gear burnouts. When I decided to replace it, it wasn't in that bad of shape, it was just slipping occasionally if I gave it a lot of gas in 6th.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-04-2008, 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by C&Cbird

A properly broken in Spec is not a POS. I put a Spec stage 3 in my 400+whp car in 2003, it survived over 70,000 miles on it, I broke three rearends, and did tons and tons of 2 gear burnouts. When I decided to replace it, it wasn't in that bad of shape, it was just slipping occasionally if I gave it a lot of gas in 6th.

Well more power to you!
I have blown 300 shot through stock motors for years also but that doesn't mean squat.
You can get those Specs a dime a dozen on Ebay so your supply is out there.
Plus that will give you enough to buy a 255 pump and your nitrous kit.

Just do that clutch a favor and don't make it hook and grab the bottle out of the gate cause your opion on them will change.

**C&Cbird** · 02-05-2008, 12:14 AM

I'm not really worried about tearing up the clutch again since I've calmed down and drive pretty normal now. I'd rather save the money from buying a nitrous kit and use it to save up for an auto for when I turn my car to mostly drag here in about two years.

**Marc 85Z28** · 02-06-2008, 12:35 PM

Unless you're planning on a H/C setup, the LS6 will work fine, AND make more power than anything but the FAST 90. I don't know where you got your $450-$500 estimate from, but a used LS6 intake can be had for $300.