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Thread: Wire Mod

  1. #1
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Wire Mod

    I read the sticky on this but have a question. Is there a negative side to doing this mod? By negative I mean anything; long term, if sometging goes wrong eventually and having to change em out, water damage, etc...?

    Looks really clean and I am considering doing this. Just dont know if there is a down side to doing it, and how bad is the down side if any.
    Suspension: Lower control arms (Spohn), Drive shaft safety loop, Torque arm (Edlebrock), Strut tower brace, Panhard Bar (BMR)

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  2. #2
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    They are kept dry up under the wheel well liner. Should be no negative affects as long as you grommet the hole to keep the sheet metal from slicing the wires. If you do ever need to work on the wires that are hidden, they will be a little more difficult to get to but I don't see a down side.

    LS6 Intake, LS6 VCT, E^2 Catch Can, Hooker LTs and ORY, Magnaflow Cat-Back, 3" QTP electric cutout, UMI adj LCA, PHB, 3 pt SFCs, STB, MGW Shifter, SLP lid and bellow, Free-Mods, Tuned by BlueCat


  3. #3
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Have you done this mod yourself?

  4. #4
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Sure have.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    How long did it take you? Did you use the wire mod sticky to do the work?

  6. #6
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Yeah I followed the sticky. Most of you're time is spent getting the car up in the air and removing the wheel well. The actual cutting and rerouting takes no time. Be careful with the vacuum line though. I broke my vacuum check valve when I was moving everything. Good luck with it. If you have any questions about it, let me know. The sticky pretty well covers it though

  7. #7
    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    how did you grommet the hole?

  8. #8
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spikito View Post
    how did you grommet the hole?
    You probably won't fine a grommet that large. I took a rubber hose from a fuel line or pcv that I had laying around. Sliced it down the middle and cut it to fit around the circumference of the hole. works just fine and protects the wires. The hose meets I'm the bottom under the wires so it doesnt look bad either.
    Last edited by derekbuckner1; 09-22-2011 at 07:51 AM.

  9. #9
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Edited previous post.
    Last edited by derekbuckner1; 09-22-2011 at 07:52 AM.

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Kenny I've done it to and like Derek said, takes no time at all. Getting the car up and removing the wheel seem to take the longest. The factory wire harness was no issue, only minor issue was that I have the passenger window fix and I had to rerun it in order to follow the path of the wire mod. But in the worth it.


    I also did the same thing in regards to the grommet.

  11. #11
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Kenny I've done it to and like Derek said, takes no time at all. Getting the car up and removing the wheel seem to take the longest. The factory wire harness was no issue, only minor issue was that I have the passenger window fix and I had to rerun it in order to follow the path of the wire mod. But in the worth it.


    I also did the same thing in regards to the grommet.
    So does the passenger window fix wires run through there also?

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    yes sorta, the red (hot) wire and the black (ground) run along side of the wire harness. The black mounts to the grounding post on the passenger fender wall. The red runs along the wire harness around the front to the hot post next to the fuse box. All I had to do was disconnect the red pull it back then insert it into the hole that you cut for the wire hide mod and then bring it back through near the battery and then rerun it like before. The black I had to add an extension in order to reach a grounding point. That was all, just added an extra 10 mins.

  13. #13
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Havent decided if I want to wire loom or electrical take the window fix wires together. No one but me would even notice them in the back corner like that but I'm picky.

  14. #14
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    So if i do this mod and later down the road that window craps out, i have to take the fenderwell off again to rerun wires?

  15. #15
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Shouldn't? Why would you replace the window fix? It's usually the motor that goes and that's behind the door panel.

  16. #16
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Kenny do you have the passenger window fix?


    If not highly recommend getting it. It will help the motor last much longer then without.


    Now if you already have it do you have to rerun it once if the motor goes the answer is no.

  17. #17
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    No i dont have it. Honestly cant fork up the money for it. Just bought some headlights and my spending for the month is bye bye.

  18. #18
    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbuckner1 View Post
    Shouldn't? Why would you replace the window fix? It's usually the motor that goes and that's behind the door panel.
    Misunderstood me

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I understand. If you do get the passenger fix I would suggest running underneath with the wire mod that way it keeps the clean look that the mod gives you. After you do it you'll know it doesn't take long to do. I had everything done in a little over an hour. For the passenger fix it would only take you maybe 20 mins to drop the wheel, open the plastic shroud up enough to pull the wires through and button it back up.


    It takes longer to change plugs then this.

  20. #20
    Member derekbuckner1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenro23 View Post
    Misunderstood me
    Whoops. My bad.

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