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  1. #1
    Junior Member CKramer's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS M6

    Exclamation Where'd my power go?

    Hey guys,

    New member, this is my first post. I'm driving a 2000 Camaro SS with about 50k miles. It's been taken care of real well, and never raced or driven too hard. It's completely stock. I always use synthetic oil and fill it with premium.

    I've had it for a few years, and my problem is that within the last 5 or 6 months, it hasn't been performing like it used too. It honestly feels like I'm just running on 6 cylinders (or even less). I'm sure I don't have to tell you guys, but when I got it (with about 22k miles) it was a beast, and I actually had to be careful not to break loose in turns, etc. But now, the throttle response doesn't seem nearly as good, and it just doesn't feel that fast.

    Has anyone ever seen something like this before?

    The air filter has been replaced recently, so I don't think it's that. I've never changed the spark plugs, so I'm wondering if anyone's ever had a problem with their plugs (although the mileage seems fairly low for that) that led to a noticeable decrease in power. Only other simple thing I can think of is the fuel filter.

    Please help!
    Thanks!

    (On a side note, I have gotten my oil changed at Jiffy-lube type places a couple times, and I'm kinda afraid that maybe they "accidentally" didn't use synthetic oil. I've heard going from synthetic to regular can create some kind of sludge that's really bad for the engine.)

  2. #2
    Teh Combustinator MarkuzLS1's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am

    Fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, MAF sensor. Any (all) could be suspect at this point.

  3. #3
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    05 Wrangler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monte man
    nice first post

    Do a good tune up like mark said...try doing it yourself to make sure it's done right. Did they replace your air filter with a oil based one...like a k&n? Also make sure you use 91+ octane gas...there's different tables for low and higher octane gas...if you put the cheap stuff in the puter will pull timing.

  4. #4
    Space Cadet RainMan's Avatar
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    Red & Dk Gray
    2002 WS6, '08 G8 GT

    Exclamation Toooooooooooooooo long on fuel filter!

    Welcome to the Forum.

    28K miles on the same fuel filter! I would start there. It's probably the original one. You need to change those regularly. Look into a professional fuel injector cleaning as well. Plugs should not be an issue yet. But would be my next step after the fuel filter.

    FUEL FILTER
    For reliable engine operation and fuel system performance, a clean fuel supply is absolutely essential. The fuel filter is the fuel system’s primary line of defense against dirt, debris and small particles of rust that flake off the inside of the fuel tank. If not trapped by the filter, such contaminants can plug fuel metering orifices in a carburetor or prevent valves from seating. In fuel injected engines, fuel debris can clog the injector inlet screens and starve the injector for fuel. And if debris gets inside the injector, it can wear or jam the pintle valve and seat.
    With diesel engines, clean fuel is even more important because of the extremely close tolerances inside the injection pump.
    The typical OEM recommendation today for fuel filter replacement is every 12 Mos or 10,000 miles—many professional mechanics say regular fuel filter changes is a good way to prevent fuel-related problems

    I change mine every 6 Months regardless of mileage. Very fine filtering media to protect delicate F/I systems. All it takes is one tank of dirty gas to clog those up.

    P.S. If you can, do your own oil change, or go to a reliable mechanic. Stay away from those Jiffy Lube type places.


    Last edited by RainMan; 04-08-2006 at 12:51 PM.

  5. #5
    Junior Member CKramer's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS M6

    Thanks for the suggestions.

    I'm starting out with some new plugs. I got some NGK TR55's. I put the 4 driver side one's in today, and I'll see if I can get the other 4 in next wknd (although I hear #8 is a bitch). The old plugs didn't look too bad, although the top lead's were slightly whitish. The wires looked ok, just a few specks of corrosion in there. After driving with the 4 new plugs, I couldn't tell any difference. I am definitely going to change the fuel filter as soon as I can, and we'll see if that's what's holding her back.

    The air filter in there now is just your regular paper kind. But I just ordered the whisper lid kit off thunderracing that comes with the K&N filters and cleaning kit. The lid should definitely help, although it sounds like the gains from the K&N filter may be pretty marginal. Also ordered the skip shift eliminator (finally! who invented that damn skip shift thing anyway??). I do change my own oil when I can, although I travel during the summer so it's not always an option. Like I said above, I only use 93 octane where it's avaliable. But I have been in New Mexico the past few summers (and will be this summer too) and the best octane you can get there is usually only about 90.

    If she's not straightened out by the time I get the remaining plugs in and the fuel filter changed, I may need some more suggestions... I'll keep you updated.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    navy blue
    2002 Z-28 Camaro M6

    Just wanted to add that putting in regular oil after synthetic should not cause any problems (IMHO). They sell a synthetic blended with regular oil from all the different types available. And if that's all we can expect from "monte man" it's gonna be a rough forum.

  7. #7
    Senior Member GottaHaveLS1's Avatar
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    Also ordered the skip shift eliminator (finally! who invented that damn skip shift thing anyway??).


    The CAGS was used so that our cars will pass the gas mileage rating for V8's. I can see how shifting from 1st to 4th will save gas seeing that the rpms drop to around 900, but I think it takes all the fun out of driving a stick if you ask me.
    1999 Trans Am M6
    SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, Strano Springs, Koni Sport Shocks, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD wires,, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17

    Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT - 303 RWHP and 308 RWTQ

  8. #8
    Member mikeaford's Avatar
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    From my understanding the skip shift was the answer to avoid gas guzzler tax, I am experiencing this as well mine lacks power and has started to surge plus rpms drop atidle at certain times now, as well I am noticing it getting worse. I have changed the spark plugs wires in the past 20K miles, changed fuel filter, changed air filter cleaned the MAF, I have put a can of BG-44K fuel line cleaner in, and tomorrow to ruel out fuel pump having the fuel rail presure tested to see what I am running at PSI wise. Hopefully it's just a stupid fuel pump I do have almost 105K miles on mine which is a 01 LS1 with t-56. I have also done the clutch all the o2 sensors, all clutch hydraulics replaced water pump, replaced P/S lines, and almost every light socket in the front along with the fog lamp housings, oh and I also changed the rear seal should've bought a vet I think I was worried about maintenance cost. well see what helps it finally...mods are Magnaflow catback KnN filter - new cold air lid, slp strut brace tower BAER eradispeed brakes.

  9. #9
    Member Capster78's Avatar
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    Could be alot of things. I doubt its spark plugs or wires. I did not change myne on my other car untill I hit 70k and they were still in good shape. It could definatly be a fuel filter or a fuel pump. Could also be cloged cats, if you have an auto maybe even a bad converter, bad 02's (normally would set off SES's but I have seen instances where they did not), Maybe a vacume leak somewhere.. Could have slightly bent pushrods, broken vaulve springs or worn rockers (normally would result in alot of vaulvetrain noise). Thats just to name a few things I have seen happen.

  10. #10
    Modding is an Addiction bww3588's Avatar
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    might possibly check your PCV valve. if its bad it may be letting an abundance of oil into the intake tract. check inside your TB for a build up of oil. maby look into a catch can.

  11. #11
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    2000 SS M6

    how long has it been since you smelled sulfur? Maybe just needs a little abuse to "burn off the carbon". Probubly an old wives tale but a fun way to attempt a fix

  12. #12
    Member mikeaford's Avatar
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    01 Trans Am

    Well here are the results 50 PSI at turnkey and 60 PSI at ignition??? I don't know what to check next, looks like it might be going back to the shop for an expensive day... How can I check my o2 sensors or is there a way? Can I check my injectors myself or is expensive specialized diagnostic tools needed for this? Any other suggestions? If I can do it without a 300 dollar tool I'm all over it. thanks people please help me clear the mystery - I think at times I'm falling out of love with this car - and that sucks...

  13. #13
    Lead Foot! WhiteLs1's Avatar
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    99 Z28

    Fuel filter, I would start there, if that doesen't work, a full tune up never hurts. If problems still persist I would take it to a reputable shop and pull codes instead of throwing money at it. Good Luck.

  14. #14
    Junior Member CKramer's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS M6

    Ok, I still haven't had a chance to put the 4 passenger side plugs in, but I did change the fuel filter, and as far as I can tell, that didn't make any difference. Still really slow... Thanks for the suggestions, though. I will see if I can check the PCV valve, but what is the TB? Pulling codes may be my next resort, but I have a question about that: is it possible to get some kind of usable information from that, but something that wouldn't be setting off a SES? Cause if those codes always set off a warning light, then there doesn't seem to be any point to me having that checked.

  15. #15
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Power deprivation? We got just the thing, big cam, AFR heads, all the bolt-ons, 4.10 gears, that should just about cure ya. Take all of those and call us in the morning.
    Heads 'n Cammed, Moser 12, 3.73's, Weight Reduction, 13" Brembo Kit
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    412whp/394wtq 1/4 mile slip coming soon!
    Gone: '01 Laser Red Cobra 3.73's/Full Bolt-ons

  16. #16
    Member mikeaford's Avatar
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    TB = Throttle Body the surging issue was solved with a swap of my Throttle position switch aka TPS Switch located on the bottom drivers side on the throttle body. However still lagging a little bit in the power dept going to pull the plugs next noticed some white spots on my wires like they had gotten wet. Hmmm could this be the end of my issues???

  17. #17
    Junior Member CKramer's Avatar
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    Ok, have changed all plugs except #8, changed the fuel filter, flushed the coolant, and checked the PCV valve (it still rattles and still has suction). Still feels like I'm drving a Taurus

    Guess it's time to take it to a shop and prepare to bend over. Oh boy.

  18. #18
    Junior Member
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    2000 camaro ss+ 1987 GN

    Quote Originally Posted by CKramer
    Ok, have changed all plugs except #8, changed the fuel filter, flushed the coolant, and checked the PCV valve (it still rattles and still has suction). Still feels like I'm drving a Taurus

    Guess it's time to take it to a shop and prepare to bend over. Oh boy.
    Did you throw a vacuum gauge on the car to check for leaks, a bad valve, ect?

  19. #19
    Awaiting Activation Liquifire's Avatar
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    CKramer-Did your throttle body have any oil in it?

  20. #20
    Junior Member stevo5662's Avatar
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    1998 Z28 6-speed

    Even though u changed the fuel filter its still possible that you could have sucked some debris into the injectors. and in defense of fast lubes...they arent ALL bad. i work in one and im proud to say its NOT a jiffy lube. vette's jags and vipers are a daily occurance where i work. one of our customers had the new ford GT also. thats about the only ford ive ever seen worth talking about.

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