whats a good o2 sim?

**LS1buckey** · 06-27-2007, 11:29 AM

I recentley put aftermarket headders and y-pipe on my 99 trans am. We hooked an o2 sim up but it's still throwing a code for no activitey on both rear sensors. I rewired the sim and the codes went away then about 2 days later they came back.

**Mr. Luos** · 06-27-2007, 11:32 AM

Screw sims. Overpriced and normally suck.

Get the codes tuned out. Shouldn't be that expensive and it will take a tuner 3-4 minutes.

**LS1buckey** · 06-27-2007, 01:19 PM

Thanks for the info, I was thinking that would be the way to go. Few questions though, Should I get the ecm tuned or buy a tuner? Also what kinda tuner should I buy if I go that route?
Thanks again.

**Mr. Luos** · 06-27-2007, 01:26 PM

They are the same thing.

A tuner changes the ECM. Handhelds can be 'okay' but you have little control compared to the software tuners like HP Tuner or LS1Edit.

**LS1buckey** · 06-27-2007, 01:39 PM

I don't really have the money right now for ls1 edit or hptuning. Are their any other options?

**Mr. Luos** · 06-27-2007, 01:39 PM

Take it somewhere. I had to.

**Liveforfunjim** · 06-28-2007, 10:44 AM

I picked my O2 sims off ebay. They where a bit higher then i found at local shops. but noone arround my area had stock so i got them online... I think there is only one guy selling them on Ebay..

The quality was pretty good, and i kept the old O2s in the pipes to pass the local visual&sniffer emissions checks

Which it did odly enough...

**GottaHaveLS1** · 07-03-2007, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Take it somewhere. I had to.

Mr. Lous, I've been trying to get them tuned out but some shops say its illegal and others say it will cost $300-$400. and I was perfectly clear on the subject. I'm at the point where I want to just get the sims but I've heard they don't always work...
(sorry for the hijack)

**98ls1blackbird** · 07-03-2007, 05:39 PM

I dont think I would use ebay electronics, I've heard you have to wire them in. I bought a set from WS6-store and never used them. PM me if you are interested in them.

**Liveforfunjim** · 07-03-2007, 08:11 PM

Wire them in?? where does this stuff come from..
they are the standard plug in, prbably the same mfg as any speed shop would sell you..

**Mr. Luos** · 07-03-2007, 09:16 PM

Originally Posted by GottaHaveLS1

Mr. Lous, I've been trying to get them tuned out but some shops say its illegal and others say it will cost $300-$400. and I was perfectly clear on the subject. I'm at the point where I want to just get the sims but I've heard they don't always work...
(sorry for the hijack)

Damn.

It is illegal here as well....technically.
But it cost me a total of $75 to have EGR/AIR codes turned off....then later on have the rear O2 codes turned off.

**sfletch2000** · 07-03-2007, 09:54 PM

Seventy five bucks just for that, i only pay 200 for a complete dyno tune when my tuner is doing 3-4 cars at once since he used to work for the road racing shop that we do it at.

**Mr. Luos** · 07-04-2007, 06:53 AM

Originally Posted by sfletch2000

Seventy five bucks just for that, i only pay 200 for a complete dyno tune when my tuner is doing 3-4 cars at once since he used to work for the road racing shop that we do it at.

Yeah...finding someone that has the software and will delete codes for a burger is much better.
Didn't have that luxury until recently.

**LS1buckey** · 07-04-2007, 11:05 AM

I Live in Ohio so I don't have to worry about sniffer test....well not yet atleast. I am having alot of trouble with the whole sim deal, I have tryed so many different things to get this thing to work but I'm still getting a code for "no activity" on both rear sensors. I'm thinking that I am just going to send the damn thing back and put the o2's back in with a "non fouler", The thing I am worried about though is when this all started I was getting a code for "low volts" on both rear sensors {after I replaced them}, so I switched them again but still the same. We thought it might be the cats so we gutted them, Then we just went a put a whole exhaust on with no cats and no spot for the rear sensors. Dose any one know what could have caused a low volts code? My car keeps hesitating like your feathering the gas, and when the engines cold it's the worst. I'm pritty sure this all started when that low volts code started although everything I've read says the rear sensors shouldn't affect the way the car runs. Any ideas?

**Steve Crowe** · 07-04-2007, 02:39 PM

Bypassing the 2nd O2 sensors won't have an effect on "sniffer tests" since they're not used to control the fuel mixture, only reason for existence it to monitor the efficiency of the cat.

**LS1buckey** · 07-04-2007, 04:41 PM

I know that, pluse like I said I don't have to worry about a sniffer test in ohio, but the problem started when the rear sensors threw a "low volts" code. I have read and been told that they shouldn't mess with the performence of the car but some thing is and the only codes I am getting are "air/fuel mixture" and "o2 bank 1 and 2 sensor 2 no activity".

**Steve Crowe** · 07-05-2007, 05:37 PM

Pain in the rear. We've actually designed some O2 sims that will fool even the newest PCMs but can't find anyone to sell us the connectors at a reasonable price. We also ran into a supply problem for the power supply chip we designed into it so we're still stuck on hold.

You can read about how we learned to fool the PCM in a short article on our website:

http://iecoklahoma.com

**LS1buckey** · 07-06-2007, 09:06 AM

When you say that you are waiting on connectors, I assume that you mean so that they can plug directally into the chassis harnes. If you have them available to splice in, or need a prototype tested

I still have the connectors from my rear o2's and would love to buy a couple from you without the plugs!