What should I do?

[79Firebird_99TA]

I don't want to name names at this point but I've had a very bad experience with a shop that took in my `99 TA. The shop has (or had) a very good reputation. Hasn't worked out so well for me.
Basically I had the LS stroked, headers, cam .....etc. It took several months to get it back; the shop was hit with covid, and supposedly a bad tech that was "screwing everything that he touched up..... but he didn't touch mine!" Not so sure about that.

Now there are a lot of excuses as to why he has to wait to get the car back. Here are the problems:
Uses A LOT of oil.... about a quart every 200 miles!! Spark plugs are oily and it's not burning right. Even had someone on the road compliment how well it sounded but it's running really rich.

Codes - I've got PO300 and the knock sensor codes for both knock sensors.

Tune - The tune is crap. I stall out when cold and try to get it out of the driveway. I thought that part of the oil and tune issues were that it didn't have a PCV valve. It has a catch can but without the valve, it's a vacuum leak. It was tuned like that, so now that I have a fixed orifice PCV valve - it runs worse and still barrels out blue smoke when doing a full throttle pull. I'm sure that's not the only time it smokes. It doesn't when I first crank it.

If you're still reading, thanks. I guess I just need some advice as to what I should do. Should I sue, should I continue to call. He ignores my calls. When I call from a foreign phone he'll pick up. I spent 13k. It's about to be a paper weight in July. It won't pass emissions so I'll have to park it.... not that I really want to drive it.

What should I do?

[sjgreen6]

Stick with the shop that broke it or take it to someone else that might be more trustworthy but is going to charge you for walking in the door. If it were mine and I was fed up with the first shop and I think it is the tune and running rich is causing the oil to wash down causing it to burn at a high rate, then I would first go through everything that is within my ability to check and fix. Starting with fixing the PCV, looking for other vacuum leaks, replacing the plugs, checking the coils and wires, check the fuel pressure, if you have cats check them and the O2 sensors. After all of that get it to a different shop that you trust and see if they can properly set the tune. Hugely frustrating and potentially more expensive yes, but sometimes when you find yourself stuck at the bottom of a hole with a shovel, the first step is to stop digging and find another way out. Good luck!

[SMWS6TA]

Steve gave all good suggestions but my concern is the rings are not gaped correctly or even the valve stem seals.

That much blow by is not pcv, shit tune or oily plugs. Piston rings or valve stem seals cause that.

Old school rule - if it smokes on start up high chance it's valve stems, if constant smoke it's rings.

Compression check should help diagnose it.

Now in regards to dealing with the mechanic. It would be a hard choice.

If he's dodging you then I'd go to another mechanic and a lawyer. Have the other shop provide the diagnostics (proof) that they fucked you and then take to court. 13k is not small claims, that's serious fraud.

[SMWS6TA]

If you can get a bore camera I'd try to get one and peak inside the plug hole and see what's what.

[79Firebird_99TA]

Good advice. Thanks. There is a lot that I can do to diagnose it, and I will. I'll do a compression and leak down test.
I'll start there. At this point why would I want to push them to take it back? He clearly wants me to go away. If he did take it back, it would probably just sit in the yard, or even at worst - get some more half assed work done on it. I won't bore you with many shoddy things that I've corrected and sent him pictures. It certainly could get worse. If he contacts me and wants to take it and make it right, that's another thing; I'll go with that. I personally wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I were a shop owner and a customer of mine sent me pics of oily spark plugs and told me of all the codes that are set.

[79Firebird_99TA]

Here are a couple of pics to illustrate just why I might be upset.....

[SMWS6TA]

I had an idea on the pcv. Pull the passenger valve cover and see if the baffles are still on the cover. If they've been removed it could explain the ton of oil going thru that.

What is that hose to?

[79Firebird_99TA]

I had an idea on the pcv. Pull the passenger valve cover and see if the baffles are still on the cover. If they've been removed it could explain the ton of oil going thru that.

What is that hose to?

I'll do that.

That was the hose that ran from the catch can to the manifold vacuum port. I was just illustrating what absolute hockiness it was. Also - side note, that's an elite catch can and it wasn't even connected right. The input is from the valve covers and the output goes to the manifold port. Sigh .....

[79Firebird_99TA]

Also ... I started the install the spark plugs today but figured I'd put the bore scope down in the holes as well as a compression test. That should tell me everything. Should I do a leak down test as well?

[SMWS6TA]

See what the compression test say first, then do a leak down.

[79Firebird_99TA]

See what the compression test say first, then do a leak down.

I'll do that this weekend. I went ahead and drove it this morning. I'd say the IAC and/or TPS need to relearn itself after I installed a breather filter oil cap - making things leaner. Let's just say, I didn't need to use my cruise control. On the highway I kicked it into neutral once and it was running at 2500 RPM.

[SMWS6TA]

check your idle screw. it may be opened way too much.

[79Firebird_99TA]

Actually it was fine until I put on the oil cap breather. It's in a leaner condition.

[79Firebird_99TA]

I have yet to doing anything with the TA. I did speak with the shop owner who said he'd work it in and to bring it by, so that's good news.

I also want to double check my work with the PCV system. Initially there was no valve and the catch can was connected wrong. I have the input to the catch can coming from both rear valve cover Y. This is the stock LS1 pcv setup. The output of the catch can goes to the fixed orifice PCV and then to manifold vacuum. The clean air line that runs from the front of the passenger valve cover to the throttle body has a check valve not allowing air to go into the throttle body but out. I'm also waiting on a one way breather for the oil cap. It will allow pressure out only.

Is that correct?

[sam I am]

See what the compression test say first, then do a leak down.

I agree with this 100%

[79Firebird_99TA]

The shop is taking it back. They can figure out why it's using oil. I'd say it only has 4k on the clock since it was rebuilt and stroked. The breather with check valve didn't make any difference.... so the issue doesn't appear to be PCV related.

[SMWS6TA]

make sure they give you a detailed explanation on what they found.

[79Firebird_99TA]

make sure they give you a detailed explanation on what they found.

Absolutely.

[liamleque]

A kinda scary situation for me.Hope you will solve the problem!

[79Firebird_99TA]

We shall see. I sent it back to the shop yesterday. They need to deal with the oil consumption issue as well as the PO300 and PO whatever for the knock sensors. If I have codes, the TA will be a paper weight sitting in my driveway as I have to pass emissions in July.