What is the BEST fuel pump for a stock 19k mile '99 TransAm?

**ggoat!!!** · 03-18-2021, 05:34 PM

Hi everyone...

I have a 19,000 mile 30th Anniversary Trans Am with a completely dead fuel pump.

What is the absolute best MOST RELIABLE fuel pump to install?

And, are any of them available nowadays full assembly swaps or do you just have to replace the pump itself?

Please, if anyone knows, reply with brands/part numbers.

Thanks everyone!

Jeff

**v8forme** · 03-19-2021, 07:34 PM

My stock fuel pump died at around 25,000 miles. It's really hard to beat OEM for reliability. BTY, not being sure it was the fuel pump at the time, I bought $70 fuel pump, and ran that for a couple of years until I got nervous and decided to replace it with an OEM before the cheapy fuel pump could strand me.

**sjgreen6** · 03-21-2021, 03:32 AM

You can find places selling what they say are complete replacements with the bucket and all but most seem made with cheap parts. Assuming you haven't made any huge changes to your car beyond the normal, you just need a reliable pump that will give you plenty of pressure. I'm using a Racetronix pump kit and added their Hotwire power harness to ensure proper voltage to the pump. Biggest thing with replacing your pump is either dropping the axle, exhaust, and fuel tank (hard way) or cutting the trap door above the tank (easy but scary way). Once you have the trap door cut you can pretty much access the pump any time you want fairly easily. While Racetronix pumps have a good reputation, their instructions often leave a bit to be desired. You can get Racetronix direct or through a number of vendors. They are specific to the year car (98 different than 99-02) so be sure you order the correct kit for yours.

**ggoat!!!** · 03-21-2021, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by sjgreen6

You can find places selling what they say are complete replacements with the bucket and all but most seem made with cheap parts. Assuming you haven't made any huge changes to your car beyond the normal, you just need a reliable pump that will give you plenty of pressure. I'm using a Racetronix pump kit and added their Hotwire power harness to ensure proper voltage to the pump. Biggest thing with replacing your pump is either dropping the axle, exhaust, and fuel tank (hard way) or cutting the trap door above the tank (easy but scary way). Once you have the trap door cut you can pretty much access the pump any time you want fairly easily. While Racetronix pumps have a good reputation, their instructions often leave a bit to be desired. You can get Racetronix direct or through a number of vendors. They are specific to the year car (98 different than 99-02) so be sure you order the correct kit for yours.

Thanks!

My car is bone stock, since it is an anniversary car...I haven't modded it except de-baffling the hood intake vents. I really don't want to cut the car up...although it would make sense in a modded car. Being a pretty low mileage rare car that is basically in new condition, I really wouldn't want to do anything extreme to it.

However, if it fails again after I replace it, then I probably will add the trap door...too bad no one makes a kit to make the trap door look professionally installed and finished.

**sjgreen6** · 03-22-2021, 05:56 PM

To do the job without the trap door, you will definitely need a lift to get the axle, complete exhaust down (from y-pipe back and the fuel tank. If you have access to a lift I would definitely consider it. However, when you consider the trap door is under the carpet and generally unseen it becomes more acceptable. Just imagine you get everything back together only to find out that you pinched a wire or the pump isn't working. I've seen trap doors that have been cut all the way around and hinged on one side with an overlapping flap added to the other side to ensure you don't crush the door if you put weight on top of the trap door.

Personally I cut mine a little different than most. Instead of cutting both sides and across the rear closest to the rear bumper like most, I cut along the passenger side then parallel toward the rear seat and parallel toward the rear bumper then folded the sheet metal toward the driver side. By doing it this way I avoided cutting directly over the fuel hoses which are under the drivers side rear of where you will cut the door. Made me feel much more comfortable about making the cuts. I also used very heavy aluminum based HVAC tape to reseal the cuts once I was done and bent the door back down.

**v8forme** · 03-23-2021, 10:32 AM

Cutting the trap door is a little nerve racking, but taking my time with a 1" diameter dremel cutoff wheel, I was able to keep the cut shallow. After folding the flap back, covering the cut with metal tape, I added sheet metal strips over the cut, and pop riveted the sheet metal to the car. When I needed to reopen the flap, drilling out the outer rivets was quick. You do want a seal, at very least to keep out exhaust gases and road noise. When you open the hatch, it is not obvious that there is a flap.