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  1. #1
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    Want to do some bolt on's but have some ?'s

    Ok so I am new to the ls1 stuff I want to do some more bolt on's to my car but have some questions. First off i'd love to do headers, and off road y-pipe but have heard many so you need to tune afterwards is this a must and will the car run fine, second off is the slp cold air kit worth the money or just stick with the slp lid and high flow air filter? Also what is the best cat-back bang for the buck b/c i really like the slp loud mouth 2

  2. #2
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01A4Z28 View Post
    Ok so I am new to the ls1 stuff I want to do some more bolt on's to my car but have some questions. First off i'd love to do headers, and off road y-pipe but have heard many so you need to tune afterwards is this a must and will the car run fine, second off is the slp cold air kit worth the money or just stick with the slp lid and high flow air filter? Also what is the best cat-back bang for the buck b/c i really like the slp loud mouth 2
    A tune will get the max power out of the bolt ons but is not a "MUST HAVE" I ran fine without a tune for years with bolt ons. Frost Mail Order tune is only around $125-$150 dollars and would be well worth it IMHO. I would say screw SLP (There parts are over priced and fit like shit!) Go with a Fast Toys Ram Air (I have it and have had no issues with it, even in standing water ) Got with a Fast Toys 102mm Lid (Biggest lid they make) this will be nice if you plan on going more radical in the future IE H/C! I am partial to Magna Flow for cat backs, sounds amazing
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for your clairification on the tuning, I had just heard a few of the local guys saying they had issues with there car's idling after doing the exhaust upgrade. I know I have always had the understanding that the Maf on the cars was suppose to compensate for stuff like that but maybe that is b/c i'm use to working on mustangs and such

  4. #4
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01A4Z28 View Post
    Thanks for your clairification on the tuning, I had just heard a few of the local guys saying they had issues with there car's idling after doing the exhaust upgrade. I know I have always had the understanding that the Maf on the cars was suppose to compensate for stuff like that but maybe that is b/c i'm use to working on mustangs and such
    What ever you do......don't touch the MAF!!! Its a gimmick on our cars and will usually do more harm then good. MAF's are only worth messing with if you are getting a dyno tune and even then, its not the best idea. Never heard of or had an issue with idleing with my headers I wouldn't worry about it but for the price of a Frost Tune, I would recommend it if you want max power/mpg! He can also do alot of other things like change tranny settings (Shift points/pressure) if your an A4 and fan temp turn on.

  5. #5
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    yea the car is an a4, i was planning on having a mail order tune done but it wouldn't be right a way thats why i was curious on weather it would need tuned right off the bat or not. I'm sure there are a lot of newbies out there that ask the same questions but figured i'd throw it out there

  6. #6
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Lid
    Headers
    ORYP
    Cat Back
    SFC

    Will get you some nice power/mpg increases and set you up perfect for the future.

  7. #7
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    I already have the Lid, and the car has a factory ls6 intake. so that saves a little there. but how about the aluminum cai to match the lid that slp makes?

  8. #8
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01A4Z28 View Post
    I already have the Lid, and the car has a factory ls6 intake. so that saves a little there. but how about the aluminum cai to match the lid that slp makes?
    I have that CAI but its Fast Toys. I would say screw any part that is SLP. They are high priced and don't fit right. Go to Fast Toys and get their CAI. It fits great. You won't notice any low end power or torque but upper speeds it will help.

  9. #9
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    i will do some looking into that, wish i would have known that before i bought the slp lid, but i've had it on the car since a couple of days after picking it up

  10. #10
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01A4Z28 View Post
    i will do some looking into that, wish i would have known that before i bought the slp lid, but i've had it on the car since a couple of days after picking it up
    It isn't a huge deal but just for future reference

  11. #11
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    thanks i appreciate it

  12. #12
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01A4Z28 View Post
    thanks i appreciate it
    No prob! LS1.com is a mostly friendly atmosphere with very helpful people. You can learn tons of info from some very nice guys/gals

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    If you get the CAI be weary of any puddles while driving. Our engines WILL suck up water and the CAI's always seem to be the ones that are the culprits.

    Hydrolock is very bad

  14. #14
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    So honestly is it really worth it or just do the other bolt on's and avoid it?

  15. #15
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    If you get the CAI be weary of any puddles while driving. Our engines WILL suck up water and the CAI's always seem to be the ones that are the culprits.

    Hydrolock is very bad
    I am borderline with this! I agree that hydrolock is bad but this last summer I had to drive (Forced for reasons I don't want to explain ) through 12" to 18" of standing water I looked for the block off plate (Given to you for use in rain by Fast Toys) and found that I left it at home I slowly drove through thinking this was the end of my beautiful motor but alas it wasn't. Made it through fine with no issues Now If I would have hit that much at 40 mph or 50 mph I would have had a hydrolocked motor but that would have happened under any circumstance

    I say get it and just keep the plate they give you in the trunk for peace of mind.

  16. #16
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    IMHO I will not use it. Minimal gains vs added risk. Some will defend it here and maybe flame me for my opinion but

    I've had my T/A for almost 2 years now and have been modding since I got it. I've come to appreciate what guys told me early on that most builds take 3-5 yrs on an average. Of course that time line depends on the amount of money you have for your build. My advice is research, research, ask questions which will lead you to more questions and researching. Make a build sheet. Helps you map out what you want and what you need.

    Everything needs a good foundation. For our cars its the suspension, follow by a solid rear end, then you can build a monster engine that you want. Not saying you have to go in that order but the more you add to the engine the quicker the rear will go. i was told that any HP above 430 HP it's not IF but WHEN your rear end will go.


    I've added my signature to show you all that I've done so far. Most of these everyone will do at some point or another.
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    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  17. #17
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    I do agree with above post that some people have had hydrolock problems but who knows how they were driving or what they were driving in. I haven't had an issue with all of my time (5+ years) is all I'm saying. They give you the plate if your worried

  18. #18
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    IMHO I will not use it. Minimal gains vs added risk. Some will defend it here and maybe flame me for my opinion but

    I've had my T/A for almost 2 years now and have been modding since I got it. I've come to appreciate what guys told me early on that most builds take 3-5 yrs on an average. Of course that time line depends on the amount of money you have for your build. My advice is research, research, ask questions which will lead you to more questions and researching. Make a build sheet. Helps you map out what you want and what you need.

    Everything needs a good foundation. For our cars its the suspension, follow by a solid rear end, then you can build a monster engine that you want. Not saying you have to go in that order but the more you add to the engine the quicker the rear will go. i was told that any HP above 430 HP it's not IF but WHEN your rear end will go.


    I've added my signature to show you all that I've done so far. Most of these everyone will do at some point or another.
    No flaming will start here, you have your opinion and I have mine. Neither is truely wrong or right.

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I swear Darth Lemon Cat I'm not stalking you in these 2 threads...

    I didn't think you would but we both know that there are others that have and would but its been nice to see that it has been dying down the last few months Mods have been ever watchful.




  20. #20
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    you've both been very helpful and i do plan on doing a build sheet, basically i'm not looking to go to wild with this car just want something fun to drive as a daily, i have another car for the track use. thanks again

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