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Thread: Want 12.20's
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04-06-2010, 05:02 PM #1
Want 12.20's
My car is a pretty much stock 99 WS6. It is an A4 and I want to get it to 12.20's in the quarter. What should I do to it? Don't want nitrous.
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04-06-2010, 05:41 PM #2
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04-07-2010, 02:14 AM #3
How much of a stall and what other minor mods? What I have been told is a cam, stall, headers and gears. I'm looking for specifics. What RPM stall, what cam, etc....
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04-07-2010, 03:24 AM #4
What is currently done to your car now?
Is your car a daily driver or a weekend car?
How often are you going to race it?
For example I will be putting in a 4000 stall in a few weeks. To most people that is not daily driver friendly but its a toy that sees track time so I don't care. Provide as much info as you can. Now you say 12.20 are you going to be happy once you are there? are you going to want to go faster?
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04-07-2010, 05:25 AM #5
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- Jan 2006
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- Shepherd, Michigan
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
i will tell you what i will run in a few weeks hopefully ...but my mods are functional sealed ram air airbox, long tube headers, off road y pipe, adj lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar, subframe connectors, ls6 intake manifold, torq thrust Ms, and nitto 315s, strano springs, koni shocks.
i expect to be 12.8 range if not faster. All of the suspension stuff, including tires were mods i needed to adequately handle a stall...which i will be getting a yank 4000 or possibly a 3600.
after the stall i should be close to 12.2
oh and i am running oem 3.23
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04-07-2010, 09:55 AM #6
The car is a pleasure use only car, not a daily driver. It only has a lid and cat back magnaflow exhaust. I'm not sure that I want to go with a 4000rpm stall. That sure sounds high. When I told some buddies of mine with old street rods how high of a stall alot LS1 guys are running they told me I was nuts if I put that high of a stall in my car.
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04-07-2010, 10:01 AM #7
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04-07-2010, 10:02 AM #8
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
and as your car not being a DD..it is even more reason why drive-ability is not such a factor.
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04-07-2010, 10:12 AM #9
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04-07-2010, 10:14 AM #10
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
a non h/c N/A car will be recommended a SS3600 by yank i believe...a h/c N/A will be a ss4000
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04-07-2010, 10:16 AM #11
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04-07-2010, 10:20 AM #12
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
here
it is messy on the site and almost impossible to copy and paste....it also depends on your rear end gearing
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04-07-2010, 10:22 AM #13
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04-07-2010, 10:38 AM #14
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If low 12s is all you want and you've already got a lid and catback:
Engine:
- LS6 intake manifold
- ported stock throttle body
- long tube headers, Hookers are inexpensive and fit well
- offroad y-pipe
- custom tune
Trans:
- 3600-4000 stall torque converter, Yanks PT4000 recommended
Chassis:
-Mickey Thompson ET street radial 275/40r17
If you have 2.73s, put in 3.42 or 3.73. If you've got 3.23, leave them in.
A cam is not necessary for your goals.
A 4000 stall speed rating is NOT too much for even a stock LS1. Remember, these engines make peak torque higher than most stock SBCs redlined
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04-07-2010, 10:39 AM #15
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04-07-2010, 11:04 AM #16
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2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Your car would use a "lock up" style high stall torque converter.
Unlike the "old days" (I'm probably older than your buddies) when a high stall TC was high stall all the time the TC you want will go to a high RPM (say 3K or so) shift to 2nd, 3rd then OD and at a predetermined speed (say 35 or 40 mph) will "lock up" (you'll probably perceive it as another shift), acting like a normal TC and lowering your engine speed back to normal for your final drive ratio.
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04-07-2010, 11:19 AM #17
I'm an A4 also, and I had bone stock times of 13.8s. After the mods in my sig, I'm now running 12.5 quarters... So that should give you some idea of what you need. From what I've seen from my friend LS1's... you would need a cam to get close.
2000 WS6 TA #2946 - A4, Best 1/4: 12.5s @111mph.
SLP LTs, 228r Cam, SY 3500, Shift kit, LS6 intake, underdrive pulleys, lid, p&p TB, Borla w/ cutout, Pro-kit springs, poly all around, Hotchkis suspension, 3.90 gears, tuned.
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04-07-2010, 11:30 AM #18
your da could throw a wrench in your plans also. my track is about a half a mile above sea level and extremely dry and hot during the season. the track is very limited use in winter if it is not closed. but in the summer(frequent events) it easily gets up to 5000 da which can knock off a full second off your track times, depending on the car also. check you da on a regular basis to see when to go to run better times. it shouldnt take more than 2 years to find out when the quickest time of year is. mine is usually late oct and any november events.
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04-07-2010, 12:28 PM #19
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04-07-2010, 12:43 PM #20
This is pretty darn close. I've done even less to my 02 SS convertable and have dipped into the 12's.
I run a milder 3,400 stall with a 2.1 str. I still have the stock 3.23 gears. Only other additions are headers and an off road Y-pipe. I'm still running the stock catback system, although it is the optional dual/dual CME setup.
I tune it myself.
On stock street tires I've went a best of 1.90 60 foot coming out easily and ran a best pass of 12.76 at 107 mph. Sticky tires alone would knock my 60 foot times into the 1.7 range according to most that run this same converter. I believe the car would go 12.50's or so with just tires added.
The car weighs 3,820 lbs. with me in it, no weight reduction was attempted. It may have been a tad heavier on racing day, I had the laptop and a small cooler with drinks and ice in the trunk DA was 2,100 feet that day.
Just for comparison, when it was bone stock down to the paper filter the best it would muster was a 13.70 at 102 mph. Converter, headers, and a tune made a hell of a difference on mine for very little money.
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