Time to play

[ESBdieselcam]

Hey all, Thanks again for the help on fixing my MAF. Now it's time to play. I have a pretty tight budget, but It's time. I am looking to produce around 400hp, and corner well. However I do like to drag race. The car is all stock save for the skipshift elim. Where do I begin, what are the weak liks of this ma-chine? Thanks for any advice you have to offer.
Pat

[00z28bubba]

Hey all, Thanks again for the help on fixing my MAF. Now it's time to play. I have a pretty tight budget, but It's time. I am looking to produce around 400hp, and corner well. However I do like to drag race. The car is all stock save for the skipshift elim. Where do I begin, what are the weak liks of this ma-chine? Thanks for any advice you have to offer.
Pat

rear end and clutch are the weakest parts of the m6 cars. get an ls7 clutch kit and a 9" rear end and you will handle all the power you are aiming for with relative ease. depending on how well you want to corner will make the difference in how much you will spend on your suspension.

for light cornering and decent driveability this is a small list. it definitely changes the characteristics of the car's handling. subframe connectors needed. some 17x10 wheels all around will be nice for corners and interchangeable for dragstrip purposes. 18x10 will work too but same wheel/tire sizes on all four corners will be the best for the application. and definitely shocks and springs. my plans consist of koni 4/3 shocks and strano 1.25" lowering springs.

for drastic cornering changes start with the above mentioned and then you might want to check into a full tubular front and rear set up from companies like umi. you will feel absolutely everything in the road(if that is a concern) but will be able to carve the road up with most other cars.

power will definitely consist of full bolt ons(intake from the air lid all the way to the intake manifold swapped for bigger pieces save for maf, full exhaust from long tube headers to catback) light heads and cam combo for 400 ponies. for a lil bit more oomph you can go with the 90mm fast intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body combo also. pricey but with heads and cam it is clearly better than the ls6 intake manifold, which either set up would be an upgrade for you. after all the power stuff is done make sure the tune is up to par. get a nearby tuner who can dial everything in pretty solid to keep the car running as strong as possible.

[pajeff02]

+1 on subframe connectors. This along with tubular lower control arms, panhard bar and relocation brackets will really help the rear end stay put under power and plant the tires. I just purchased all of these items over the past few months for our car.

[Hi-Po]

400 RWHP

Your going to need a pretty large camshaft with stock untouched heads. I would guess a mid 230's cam.

Intake has to be at least a LS6. But a FAST 92/92 would be best. Hard to work that price into any budget though.

You will definitely need a full exhaust. On a budget headers, Pacesetters... Off the budget will be some great SS Kooks longtubes. MagnaFlow for the rear exhaust sounds nice and is fairly cheap. Bassani also makes a nice setup, but its pricey.

For suspension, its sometimes easier to pick one or the other and attack it. Street or Track. Then just live with any downfalls on the other. Reducing any unsprung weight will always make the car corner noticeably better. UMI does make a great front end kit. (K member, upper and low A-Arms) and Ive looked into them. Too pricey for me at the moment. Koni's are great shocks, but expensive. QA1's are great shocks for a little less coin, and will perform great at the track. There are single and double adjustable shocks, doubles obviously being more expensive.

After you get your 400 RWHP things will start breaking. Rear end and clutch first. Stock clutch will not hold 400 RWHP. LS7 clutch kit is nice from what I hear. But there are better clutches out there IMO for a little extra money. Monster clutches are getting great reviews and their customer service is seriously top notch. I think out of 2500 clutches sold, some 100 have failed, 28 of them being a quality control problem with full refund/replacement.

10 bolt is useless, don't dump any money into it. Moser 9" with a 4.11 is great and damn near bullet proof at 400 RWHP.

Almost all these items can be purchased from one of site sponsors.

www.KYSPEED.com being one. Mark and Bobby are great guys to deal with. Marksls1ta - screen name here.

[ESBdieselcam]

Thanks guys. I forgot to mention, I recently purchased an Edelbrock tq. arm, and strut tower brace. I certainly plan on weld in subframe connectors. What do you reccomend for LCA's? and what exactly do the relocation rackets do?
I was thinking of an SLP loudmouth exhaust? All I've seen for headers from pacesetter are long tubes w/o EGR/AIR? do they make some that bolt up to everything?
Whats the input on OEwheels? I was looking at a set of deep dish C5 wheels? are they cheap crap? Thanks

[pajeff02]

As it was explained to me -- relocation brackets change your instant center and help plant the rear tires under acceleration. They basically lower the rear mounting point (on the axle) of the control arms. With this mod alone, members have reported drops "in the tenths" of of their quarter mile times, with real improvement in the 60' times. Seem to be a worthwhile investment if going fast is your goal.