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Thread: Tapping noise started tonight...
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10-03-2005, 12:08 AM #1BlackHawk T/AGuest
Tapping noise started tonight...
Never did this before, started the car to head home from my girlfriend's house...got all the way to my house when I noticed a clicking/tapping sound when I was on the gas real light. I got out and throttled it from under the hood...raises with RPM, isn't super loud but is audible from in the car with the windows up (through the firewall I guess?). I swear everything was normal when I started it. Also it seems to go away once the car is moving (load on the engine).
Anyone know what this could be? I guess I could get just about any response (lifters, pushrods, etc) but I can't give any more info right now. The car is parked and I won't get back to it for another 9 hours.
Kinda scares me because oil pumps click with RPM when they go out and I just changed oil/filter less than 100 miles ago...
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10-03-2005, 12:41 AM #2
I had similar syptoms and it turned out the AC compressor was dying...
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10-03-2005, 05:31 AM #3
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You may be experiencing the cleaning of the oil you are using now......often when you go from a "off the shelf" oil to a superior synthetic what happens is the synthetic starts cleaning the varnish and crap immediately......when internal parts start letting loose of the varnish/crap they may begin to tap/slap a little for awhile as they are getting lubed for the first time in a long time....Many also experience "leaks" for the first time as this sludge/crap has clogged around seals and gaskets....when they get cleaned they develop a leak......
I suspect you are experiencing this cleaning in your ride.....let it go....let it do its job and clean the crap out of your engine.....I would change the filter after 1500 miles and top off the oil .....I bet your filter will be black as hell with all the junk the new oil is cleaning out of your car......
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10-03-2005, 07:13 AM #4NH Camaro Z28Guest
It could also be one of 2 noises. I've noticed some of the GM motors have piston slap or injectors are somewhat noisey.
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10-03-2005, 07:14 AM #5NH Camaro Z28Guest
Anyone with a 4L60E transmission run into a P0750 Shift Solenoid A code?
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10-03-2005, 08:36 AM #6BlackHawk T/AGuest
I did get on the gas a few times yesterday while joyriding with my girlfriend, I wanted to run the new oil through everything hard and clean out anything that shouldn't be in there. Though, this sound didn't start until after it was parked for a while. The car was always fairly quiet before, minus the heatshield rattle underneath...
I'm gonna watch my oil pressure today, I did notice it reading less than before with the new filter.
I hope you're right Kent, and i'll take your advice.
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10-03-2005, 02:35 PM #7
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Your LS1 is thanking you.....
Hell Google synthetic oil causes noise...or something to that effect....
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53909
Many many have experienced what you are hearing for the first time after dino oil.........the varnish/crap is a sound dampener....and no that is not good..... a good synthetic will clean that crap and yes...your engine may sound different.....it is getting cleaned and lubed....versus building up blockage/sludge/varnish and sounding "quieter"....a guy one time used the analogy that his engine was being choked to death...and yes when your being choked you cannot make much noise.....
My oil pressure runs lower with the Amsoil 0-30...do not confuse oil pressure with oil velocity...there is more pressure behind a damn than a free flowing river.......I am getting more oil where it needs to be at a lower oil pressure...I run around 40lbs of pressure cruising.....If I had a 10-40 dino in...I would be seeing 50lbs....You also will notice lower engine temps...this is because there is suddenly less friction in your motor.....
Yes....I would hope your engine performs/sounds differently......the change is that noticeable for sure.....Pull your dipstick and tell me what color the new oil is after a few days....
And just for your inner peace Look what the fire breathing LS1 engine builders use
http://vincihiperformance.com/fbodyls1ultimate.html
There is a reason for that!Last edited by Sarge; 10-03-2005 at 03:57 PM.
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10-03-2005, 03:31 PM #8
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Originally Posted by NH Camaro Z28
Just busting your balls.....GM has a bulletin out on this....
your code falls within this TSB......
· DTC P0757 Set, SES Lamp Illuminated, Poor Performance of Transmission, Transmission Slipping (Clean Transmission Valve Body and Case Oil Passages of Debris) #01-07-30-038B - (Jan 26, 2004)
DTC P0757 Set, SES Lamp Illuminated, Poor Performance of Transmission, Transmission Slipping (Clean Transmission Valve Body and Case Oil Passages of Debris)
with 4L60-E/4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30/M32)
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
The SES lamp is illuminated.
No 3rd and 4th gear.
The transmission does not shift correctly.
The transmission feels like it shifts to Neutral or a loss of drive occurs.
The vehicle free wheels above 48 km/h (30 mph). High RPM needed to overcome the free wheeling.
Cause
The most likely cause is chips or debris plugging the bleed orifice of the 2-3 shift solenoid. This will cause the transmission to stay in 2nd gear when 3rd gear is commanded and return to 1st gear when 4th gear is commanded.
DTC P0757 may also be set if the 2-3 shift valve or 2-3 shuttle valve were stuck, restricted and/or hung-up in its bore.
Correction
Inspect / Clean the 2-3 shift valve, the 2-3 shuttle valve and the valve bore of debris / metal chips.
Inspect / Clean the 2-3 shift solenoid opening of debris / metal chips. While inspecting the 2-3 shift solenoid, look for a screen over the solenoid opening. If the solenoid DOES NOT have a screen, replace the solenoid with P/N 10478131 that does have a screen over the solenoid opening.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for additional diagnostic information and service procedures.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
10478131
Valve, 2-3 Shift Solenoid
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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10-04-2005, 12:38 AM #9BlackHawk T/AGuest
Yeah the oil pressure is between 40-50 while cruising, maybe 60 with the foot to the floor.
After some more driving I have noticed:
-It seems to be noticeable only under light load, such as accelerating from a stop or even a slow rev in neutral/park
-Not audible at idle or at cruise speeds
-Sounds like a light metal tapping/rattling sound, source sounds to me like internal engine when I listen closely and use the throttle under the hood
Now I originally thought that maybe with the thinner weight oil the infamous piston slap is finally manifesting itself...but its my understanding that is more of a lower sound, like a diesel which sounds nothing like this. I also thought something could be rattling somewhere. Oh well i'll just see if it goes away on its own.
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10-05-2005, 03:44 AM #10
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Hey BlackHawk....I received my Blackstone Used Oil Analysis report on my LS1 and Amsoil 0-30....I'll go into town (office) and scan it and post it.....it is dayum fine! I ask specifically ( in a flame war with a Internet expert on another forum about thick or thin oil for LS1's) if I should go 20-50 Amsoil....Blackstone recommends staying with the Amsoil 0-30.....and this on a 600 HP motor with Nitrous I'll post the report later today for you.....
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10-05-2005, 11:07 PM #11BlackHawk T/AGuest
Sounds good.
Also...there is an annoying vibration at a certain low RPM (under 1000, when just starting to move) that rattles the whole car & dash...then goes away...never did this before...could they be related?
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10-06-2005, 02:51 AM #12
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Example....Motor A on Dino 10-30 w/Fram Filter with varnish/sludge build up at 900 RPM Idle has a vibration/frequency/oil pressure/oil temp/water temp/acceleration patterns/noises (some perception some real) etc.
The oil/filter setup is changed to a fully synthetic 0-30 w/higher flow filter....all the above are subject to change due the change as the motor now requires less effort/quicker RPM spooling/lighter loads on key engine components/cooler internal high friction area temps ( this impacts engine "noises" more than anything and is hardly seen on a temp gage monitoring overall coolant temps) etc.....let's say you run this synthetic 0-30 5000 miles...sounds are different...characteristics have changed.....you now "tweak" your oil based on a UOA/Butt Dyno, whatever, and now add some 10-40 full synthetic to your 0-30 full synthetic...( I am guilty of constant "tweaking" )..you will get subtle differences in noise/vibrations etc. just from this tweak.....
Many folks change to a synthetic after miles of dino.....leaks sprout....new sounds and characteristics appear.....is this bad....hell no....as the leaks are from cracked worn seals and gaskets that did not leak before because the sludge/crud sealed them up.....some would say I would rather have the non-leaking old dino oil....me....I say I would rather replace the frickin seal/gasket and have my engine perform at a higher standard and last longer.....but that's just me
I compare the "new oil/filter noise differences" to the differences in engine noise when a guy puts regular unleaded in his LS1 and goes WOT and then puts Super Unleaded in and does the same thing..... hell yes there is a difference...rattle rattle bang bang...knock retard kicks in...performance drops...gas mileage drops...all kinds of things happen...changing the chemistry of your oil is no different than the above analogy.....your engine is gonna react/sound/perform differently...and it is good.....Last edited by Sarge; 10-06-2005 at 03:38 AM.
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10-06-2005, 04:29 AM #13
I get a tapping/clicking noise when I move from a standstill or out of park gear. Something is up with my tranny or something...the noise is somewhere close to the catalytic converters...
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10-06-2005, 04:52 AM #14NH Camaro Z28Guest
Sorry guys about the thread. I ment to post that in the Auto trans section. Thanks Sarge.
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10-06-2005, 12:42 PM #15
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Originally Posted by Vega
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10-06-2005, 12:45 PM #16
^ ghey
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10-09-2005, 01:50 AM #17BlackHawk T/AGuest
Well i'm pretty sure its just a rattle that has developed because the car still runs hard when I want it to and doesn't have a problem kicking the rear out sideways from a roll...no ping/knock/misfire can be heard or felt while driving under any throttle conditions so its gotta be a rattle but its coming from the engine compartment and I can't figure out what it is. I know i'm probably gonna figure it out eventually and feel stupid that I didn't catch it earlier...
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