Suspension

**kenro23** · 02-08-2012, 11:12 AM

My car had all of the suspension stuff mentioned in my signature (i think others can see it) when I bought it in '07. I am EVENTUALLY going to rebuild the whole car pretty much. Gonna be my weekend/occasional track ride.

With that out of the way, how long until aftermarket suspension parts need to be replaced? I have no clue how long it had been on. I will not be doing all of the work when its time to do it. Maybe whoever builds it will be able to look and see if it needs replacement.

I am starting to put a price list together and am curious if I should add EVERYTHING or just stuff I dont currently have. Thanks for any help!!

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-08-2012, 12:49 PM

That would be a good question to ask the UMI guys. A lot of it depends on how hard you drive it, the climate, and quality of the materials that the parts are made of.

Bushings will be what wears out the fastest for the parts that have them. Poly's last much longer but still will break down over time.

If they are made from cheap metal or have poor welds at the joints and they crack then it's obviously time to replace. Also if you see them bend or warp out of their normal form. Some parts may bend a lot before breaking.

UMI, Edlebrock, Spohn, and BMR all have good quality control departments. I wouldn't worry to much from those brands as much as I would from no name vendors.

I've gone with all UMI stuff because of the quality, price, and what really sold it for me was their customer service. I look at it this way - when it comes to some things like suspension it's better to have one brand that you know will work together and not have any issues with it being a different brand.

Also for the record as much as I give UMI props for their products I'm not being sponsored by them, BUT I willing to if they asked

**kenro23** · 02-08-2012, 02:59 PM

I have spoken with UMI about sfc's in the past and I agree withthey customer service thing.

Thanks for the input on this. All of the stuff thats on my car now are the name brands you mentioned so I may be good.

I will look into those things you have mentioned when it gets closer to time to replace em. Thanks again for the wisdom.

Still have the build sheet you sent me btw. Maybe will just go off of that.

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-08-2012, 04:13 PM

As far as suspension and other stuff it's pretty through, the engine stuff has some holes in it because I haven't really research that area fully yet. I started out thinking LS6 swap then GM kill production, now I'm looking at doing a LQ9. I don't have plans for FI but you never know I may win the lotto.

**kenro23** · 02-08-2012, 04:31 PM

See i want to leave the ls1 and do what n/a work to it i can. Do not want fi. I like the original parts on my vehicles as much as possible. So the LS1 block is staying for me. Just my preference.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 02-08-2012, 07:23 PM

You can have a completely stock engine and run FI. Ask how I know

I've had my UMI/BMR aftermarket suspension parts on for 3 years now. No issues what-so-ever.

I don't see it in your signature so I'll suggest the 1st thing you do is sub-frame connectors. Second thing suspension wise would be relocation brackets for your LCA's.

**kenro23** · 02-08-2012, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

You can have a completely stock engine and run FI. Ask how I know

I've had my UMI/BMR aftermarket suspension parts on for 3 years now. No issues what-so-ever.

I don't see it in your signature so I'll suggest the 1st thing you do is sub-frame connectors. Second thing suspension wise would be relocation brackets for your LCA's.

What is the deal with the relocation brackets?

**SteveC** · 02-09-2012, 06:16 AM

As long as you have "polyuratane" bushings, your vehicle will be ready for the junkyard far before the bushings wear out.

SteveC

**KMdef9** · 02-09-2012, 07:57 AM

Originally Posted by kenro23

What is the deal with the relocation brackets?

From the umi site:

" Lower control arm relocation brackets reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Relocation brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss. Lower control arm relocation brackets allow you to correct this angle and gain back much needed traction. On a stock height vehicle relocation brackets will also work excellent to eliminate tire spin and wheel hop by changing the vehicles instant center point. Note: Bolt-on relocation brackets will not work with aftermarket rear ends."