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Thread: Studs
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08-09-2014, 05:23 PM #1
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Studs
Ok got an issue..I have 1 stud that doesn't go in like the rest. I've check about 30x and cleaned it just as much. So I know it's clean & clear. I took a coat hanger and trimmed a long piece, insert it and marked it. Next put it in another hole and made another mark. Did this to all along the bottom pass side of the block. The middle hole is not as deep as the rest. It's almost an 1/8th on an inch.
Could it be a fluke? I check with the head and it has more than enough threads to tighten down.
LQ4 block if it matters.
What you think?
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08-09-2014, 05:34 PM #2
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I just check the gm bolts are about 1/2" shorter than the studs.
drivers side all good
pass middle row all good
bottom row middle stud...
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08-10-2014, 01:29 PM #3
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Possible incorrectly measured stud from the manufacturer? Is there any excess flash or casting on the end of the stud that is causing it to not thread in all the way? The only other possibility is maybe some excess casting on the bottom of the hole in the block. How are the threads on that stud and in the block?
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08-10-2014, 06:02 PM #4
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Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
I personally would either get another stud sent to me "just to be sure it's the right length" and if that doesn't work, I would take a dremel and take a small amount of threads off the bottom...
2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Laramie Limited
2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport Premium Hemi - Sold
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08-10-2014, 09:02 PM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Studs
I measured the studs and they all were the same. I checked to see if there would be enough threads to bolt down by placing the head on. No issues, plenty of threads to tighten down. I'll post pic later..
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
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08-12-2014, 02:14 PM #6
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
That's odd. Did the original stud sit that high as well? I ask as I am wondering if the block was machined with that shallow hole intentionally.
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08-12-2014, 07:00 PM #7
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I found it odd too, I checked with the machine shop yesterday and he said it's possible that one hole was machine just enough to clear the stock bolts. I did a comparison to some stock bolts I use for hoisting the block and they were shorter than the studs. It's working.
My other problem was I rounded a nut last night, called ARP and they are sending me another few. I didn't even get to full torque they required (80ftlbs). I was on my third pass to get to 80 and as I begin to push the torque wrench it felt like it slid off. When I looked I saw the threads had rounded off.
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08-14-2014, 04:27 AM #8
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
WTF is going on with these companies these days? Engine hardware shouldn't be breaking/failing while installing. Things like this worry me. That bolt shouldn't have rounded off like that.
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08-14-2014, 06:06 AM #9
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I'm thinking it was my fault. After talking with ARP I should have used a 1/2" socket vs the 13mm that I used. I thought it was 13mm never even thought to check for a standard would fit.
I was able to get the nut off using a 1/2" socket. Just waiting on the replacement form ARP to arrive in the mail.
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08-14-2014, 11:30 AM #10
I use 1/2" for 13mm and 13mm for 1/2" all the damn time in my garage. Whichever one I find first gets used!
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