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Thread: Strokers
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09-24-2009, 08:25 AM #1
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
Strokers
I've seen a few folks on them that have them... I'm doing a stroker for my TA as my machining project in class and I'm having a hard time finding pros vs cons of a stroker, any issues with swapping heads on a stroker, ect.
Just curious as to how normal stroker drivers feel about them!
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09-24-2009, 08:31 AM #2
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
UGH. Posted in wrong thread again. Sorry. I need to get my eyeballs examined.
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09-24-2009, 08:36 AM #3
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383 w/Meth & ProCharger- 2001 Camaro Z28
Strokers are going to give you more cubic inch (more air to breath) but in some cases have put too much stress on the wrist pins and cause early failure. I've got less than 3k miles on my stroker motor and no wrist pin issue so in my experience...getting stroked has been great.
Oh...and on the heads....I went with GM cast 317 heads from a LQ9 motor. They have bigger combustion chambers which is more suited for forced induction. I probably should've went with a set of AFR heads because aftermarket (not factory cast) heads can be machined for more flow than a cast set of heads.Last edited by ntimid8r; 09-24-2009 at 08:39 AM.
BLOWN, STROKED and SHOOTIN’ METH
2001 Camaro Z28 A4
Mods:
Forged 383 | P&P 317 heads | ATI Procharger P1SC | 60# Injectors | Lonnies twin fuel pump | SDCE Tensioner | Alkycontrol Meth
Vig 3200 multi disk | ACPT c/f driveshaft | Strange 12 bolt w/3.73 gears
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09-24-2009, 08:43 AM #4
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
383 is what i'm aiming for ... i'm going to get a separate bare block in case something catastrophic happens so i have my stock engine still ... i just want to build something badass for good $$ with the chance to say IIIIII built, stroked and installed it. with the heads, i was curious as to if you go with bigger heads on the block and it being stroked, do you lose any power made? i know sometimes if you go a little too big, you lose -- i don't know how to type it out but i don't want that. i want every cubic inch of power i can get without any unnecessary losses
thank you !
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09-24-2009, 08:57 AM #5
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383 w/Meth & ProCharger- 2001 Camaro Z28
Getting the right heads and cam combination is ALWAYS key to any motor build. Well, with forced induction being the only exception to that rule. Talk with a good machine shop that knows LS motors inside and out and have them figure out what cam to match the head configuration and motor air flow.
You must have alot of money to build a whole other motor from scratch. That's an awesome concept but you'll have to get fuel rails, injectors, etc all new to build a second motor. But hey, if you can do it.....that's perfect.
Best of luck on your build. Take lots of pics and share with us.
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09-24-2009, 09:03 AM #6
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
no no no, not lots of $$, lots of hook ups (ex: school's discount for parts is 60%), doing the labor myself, transfer of externals, ectect
i'll take pics once i start ... i heard from various people that strokers sound weird ... i've never really noticed anything, but have you ever noticed anything weird sounding about them?
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09-24-2009, 09:16 AM #7
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383 w/Meth & ProCharger- 2001 Camaro Z28
There's no difference in sound....that's a weird comment. I have kooks stepped long tubes, kooks catted y-pipe and borla cat back. Sounds like demons from hell have been summoned when I put the pedal to the metal. muwhahahahahaha
You'll have to tell us what everything costs...I'd be curious to know. For me...I don't like to look at how much my setup cost. I think I'd have a heart attack if I really know.
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09-24-2009, 09:22 AM #8
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
niiice. mines just stock y-pipe, flowmaster cat back and cut out. it's loud as hell but i want it louder. i love loud.
oh im gonna keep a log of everything. you should see it now for just repair work i've done since i bought it but ALL repairs should be fixed by monday, body work has been done, she's perfect, now time for fun
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09-24-2009, 10:03 AM #9
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09-24-2009, 10:09 AM #10
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09-24-2009, 10:13 AM #11
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09-24-2009, 10:23 AM #12
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
i could have done that or put one of those super cool truck bed nets over the door
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09-24-2009, 10:28 AM #13
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09-24-2009, 10:56 AM #14
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09-24-2009, 11:01 AM #15
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09-24-2009, 11:14 AM #16
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09-24-2009, 11:45 AM #17
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09-24-2009, 11:52 AM #18
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09-24-2009, 12:03 PM #19
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383 w/Meth & ProCharger- 2001 Camaro Z28
Wow, talk about a freudian slip, I meant car. haha I'm busy at work and I guess not paying too much attention to what I'm posting. I have no explanation why I wrote guy instead of car. Please accept my apologies.
The racetronix system is the best deal IMO. If you're running a high performance motor that needs alot of fuel delivery...that system does the job beautifully. I ended upgrading to the twin pump setup from Lonnies Performance. That has two racetronix pumps in it. My old one I sold to a friend that uses nitrous....and no problems with fuel on that car either.
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09-24-2009, 12:13 PM #20
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Then go to 402/408 with either an LS2 (402-404) or LQ9 (402-414) block.
As for the heads, this is what feeds the motor, and you will want a well matched set of heads for the cubes AND for the cam.
I am running a 248/254 629/622 113 cam and Patriot stage III LS6 heads.
I would LOVE to get some AFR 225's (ported) on there....more for the powerband than anything else.
Agreed with the Racetronix stuff. I am running the single in-tank 255 kit. Not a problem with it for 4 years now.2008 Trailblazer SS
Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
Lowered, HID's, tinted.
1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.
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