starting problem

[bertt23]

ive been having a weird problem with my car, it first started a day i put the key on, and went to start and nothing happened, wtf?, went to crank again and it started right up, then slowly it got worst, and worst sometimes it would take almost 5mins trying, got the starter checked and it was fine, finally a mechanic told me it could be the relay, boom that fixed the problem, for a while, it started doing the same thing a month later, so i go and get another relay fuse, nothing, thought it was a faulty one, so changed one from the fans, and nothing, took the starter to autoparts store, passed, changed the cable to the starter, nothing, the thing i noticed is that it only happens when i get on it, if i drive normally, its good, but if i get on it, i better not turn it off, cuz it will not start, anytime soon. sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for any help.

[BIG GUNS]

Very common problem with the F-body. I've been battling mine for about 2 months now and need to find a 1.8k OHM resistor to bypass my VATS which is probably your problem.

Radio Shack doesn't carry that size so, I have to go find one at another electronics store.

Here are all the related posts on here and I'm sure there are more:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1849524

Bypass the VATS would be about the best foot forward if you are really tired of changing out stuff. I know I am.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...highlight=VATS

[edbird]

You may not know how to read a wiring diagram but, if you know how to check volts and ohms with a multimeter( or VOM as it's sometimes called), then members here can steer you to the fault so you don't have to " change out stuff".

[bertt23]

thanks for the help, dont think its the vats, security light turns off, ive read if it was the vats the "security" light stayed on.

[0rion]

so are you saying that when you turn the key nothing happens? Do you get dash board lights or anything? The first sentence makes me think it's not turning over but then you said "after 5 minutes of trying" which makes me think maybe it's turning over but just not starting. What exactly does it do when you turn the key? Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

[camaross19973]

i had the same problem with my 90 iroc camaro turned out to be the solonid how erver u spell it sorry not good speller . for some reason it gets hot and it takes time to cool and then it will work again hope u fix ur problem.

[0rion]

he said he had the starter tested but if you want to check that solenoid then the next time it does it reach under the car with a tire iron and knock the piss out of the starter. If it works then you know it's sticking. If it's not doing anything when you turn the key power wise I would look at grounds.

[camaross19973]

well i think it was off the car when he went to get it checked so the starter was cold at the time of the test so it worked just fine. but i don't know what else beside that and the fuel pump going out.i think another guy had same problem to here those this sound the same. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104277

[0rion]

well i think it was off the car when he went to get it checked so the starter was cold at the time of the test so it worked just fine. but i don't know what else beside that and the fuel pump going out.i think another guy had same problem to here those this sound the same. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104277

good point.....you could very well be onto something there.

[bertt23]

all it does is like a click sound, the fuel pump does prime, everything works just fine, except it wont crank as if it wasnt getting the signal, the click sound comes from where the relay fuse box, hope that helps, thanks again

[0rion]

all it does is like a click sound, the fuel pump does prime, everything works just fine, except it wont crank as if it wasnt getting the signal, the click sound comes from where the relay fuse box, hope that helps, thanks again

that definitely sounds like the solenoid is sticking. The next time it does it bang that starter real good and I bet it fires right up.

[bertt23]

so what do i need to do? i took the starter off and tried to get to the solenoid, but couldnt, i took it to 2 different places , to get it tested and it passed.

[edbird]

it only happens when i get on it

So get on it,then drive back home and get under it.The starter has two wires on it -the big black one to battery and a small one( my '99 manual says purple,should be the same for you).Have someone try and crank it and see if you have 12v on purple wire to ground.This will tell us if the starter relay is sending volts to starter.If no volts and no crank then we need to know if the starter relay is getting volts from Neutral safety switch(auto) or clutch safety switch(6 speed).Do the first test and get back to us.
Do you know how to check volts- do you have a VOM or 12v test light?

[Too Fast]

It's your starter, 98% of the time this is the failure for what you are describing. And no, most places will not sell you a solenoid, it mounts to the top of the starter. The starter/solenoid combo is sold only together. Sometimes you can have a dead spot on the armature itself causing the intermittent no-crank.

The reason it checks fine out of the car, and other times, is because of the intermittant fault. When it stops spinning it has to land on the dead spot.

[edbird]

You are probably right but if there was a way to make sure I think that is always better than "changing parts".

[camaross19973]

well i live in los angeles and there r a lot of fix shops around here that they will fix ur starter, carb,atl, and any electrical parts u have for cheap . not sure if u have those where u stay at but that would be one way u now they fix ur problem and last for a long time. good luck bro

[suede]

It's your starter, 98% of the time this is the failure for what you are describing. And no, most places will not sell you a solenoid, it mounts to the top of the starter. The starter/solenoid combo is sold only together. Sometimes you can have a dead spot on the armature itself causing the intermittent no-crank.

The reason it checks fine out of the car, and other times, is because of the intermittant fault. When it stops spinning it has to land on the dead spot.

You beat me to it, thats my answer.....

[bertt23]

edbird i do have a vom, i will try that, before spending money, toofast, camaross19773, suede, thanks for your input, ill also look into those electrical shops, once i find out the problem.

[BIG GUNS]

Well, today, the starter solenoid finally told on itself. Bypass does nothing when the solenoid finally goes. This morning, got in and finally heard some real audible clunks from the solenoid. Wouldn't start for about 10 minutes and everytime, I heard a bad clunk from the solenoid.

Got it fixed for $470 and filed a claim to the warranty company but, will have to wait til Monday to get the reimbursement process started. They already authorized the starter as a covered item so, they better not try to weasle out. Amazing at how strong a new AC Delco starter is.

I looked at what they billed and the actual price of the starter and its not as bad as I thought. AC-Delco online has the same part for $277.63 and the repair facility (Midas) charged $321.25 I feel a little bit better now because I thought that was kinda high for a starter but, its an AC-Delco new starter and it is much stronger than the one that was in it.

The REMAN starters run $406 and some change but, I suppose you are paying for the labor in remanufacture there which makes no sense why anyone would want a REMAN in the first place. Maybe they don't know.

Anyways, the starter on this beast is damn high for a little high rev motor.

[bertt23]

thanks for all the help guys it is the solenoid, like camaross19973 said, itll heat up, and i have to bang on the starter, for it to start.