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  1. #1
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    2000 Trans Am ws6

    Spark Plug change

    Ok, so im going to be changing my spark plugs in my car for the first time myself and i just want to make sure im getting the right plugs and have all the tools ill need. Car is stock

    im going to go with NGK tr55 part number 3951 ( http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...uestid=5813475 )
    Those are the right ones right? Only reason i ask is the autozone website says they wont fit.

    And what tools besides a 3/8 ratchet, 3" extension, and spark plug socket will i need.

    Also grabbing a new air filter, and i hear that the K&N filters arent any better than say a fram filter performance wise.

  2. #2
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am

    the TR55's will fit in our vehicles. thats what I have at the moment. I will say that you will need some different sizes extension but you might be able to do it with a 3". I know I have the long 5/8" spark plug socket and it is a tight fit for the last plug on the passenger side.

    Its alot easier if you remove the coil packs on the passnger side. i can't get the plugs out without removing the coils. i heard that if you have headers is alot easier.

    Don't forget to gap them. I think i have mine gap at .040. Don't forget to put some antiseize on the plugs and check the plug wires.

    A paper filter will do fine and cause less issues with the MAF like other members have.

  3. #3
    Junior Member GONZO SS's Avatar
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    pewter
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    The passenger rear can be reached better from underneath IMO. Also I like to use an adjustable head ratchet it makes the job much easier

  4. #4
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GONZO SS View Post
    The passenger rear can be reached better from underneath IMO. Also I like to use an adjustable head ratchet it makes the job much easier
    i never had luck from the bottom but give it a try. Great suggestion in the adjustable ratchet. I might have to get me one of those.

  5. #5
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    A 1-1/2" extension for your 3/8" drive ratchet is a great thing to have for a plug change in our cars. I removed the coil packs and also popped the pins that secure the seal to the cowl to gain more room and prevent shredding of my hands. No. 8 from beneath the car was a breeze.

    When you install the wires, a dab of dielectric grease in each boot helps to seal out moisture and prevents the plug wires from sticking to the plugs. You should hear and feel an audible "click" when you snap the boot to the plug and two "clicks" when you snap the wire to the coil. Take your time, use anti-seize on the plug threads, and you'll be fine.

  6. #6
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    2000 Trans Am ws6

    Thanks for the advice so far.
    Cant really go from underneath the car since i only have the jack that came with the car and nothing else, so i guess ill have to try and remove the coil pack to get to the last plug.

    And wont be chaning the wires this time, no money.

  7. #7
    Member jsmith564`'s Avatar
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    number eight can be done from the top. remove coils, remove air fitting from exhaust manifold.

    use a spark plug socket, 3/8 ratchet with a short 19mm socket or what ever size fits the end of the spark plug socket. i have removed my plugs 3 or 4 times in the last few months. easy as pie

  8. #8
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vince from Shamwow View Post
    Thanks for the advice so far.
    Cant really go from underneath the car since i only have the jack that came with the car and nothing else, so i guess ill have to try and remove the coil pack to get to the last plug.

    And wont be chaning the wires this time, no money.
    be careful removing the wires. If they are old they might break easily.

  9. #9
    Member bryceslu's Avatar
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    00 NHRA Formula

    Unless you feel like changing the plugs sooner rather than later...I wouldnt put in tr55's. Go with something at least platinum...they will last longer.

    Ideally I would put Iridiums in there gapped to .040. That way you wont have to change them nearly as often.

  10. #10
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    thats what im going to next time, ac delco iridiums

  11. #11
    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    Go with iridium plugs. Its a hassle to change plugs on our cars. No sense in doing it more often than needed.

  12. #12
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    well, i got the driver side done, and started on the passenger side and i have no clue how im going to get the last one when im having trouble just pulling the wire off the plug!

    i removed 4/5 bolts for the coil rack and these other 2 for the AIR pipe (?) and im still having trouble.

    If i can get 7/8 done today ill be happy.

    edit: also doesnt help that its like 95 degrees here
    Last edited by Vince from Shamwow; 06-04-2011 at 02:07 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    The last bolt on the coil pack is easier to get with a shorty wrench. After your done, don't put that one back on either.

  14. #14
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vince from Shamwow View Post
    well, i got the driver side done, and started on the passenger side and i have no clue how im going to get the last one when im having trouble just pulling the wire off the plug!

    i removed 4/5 bolts for the coil rack and these other 2 for the AIR pipe (?) and im still having trouble.

    If i can get 7/8 done today ill be happy.

    edit: also doesnt help that its like 95 degrees here
    Takes 2 minutes to change it from below.

  15. #15
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    well, the passenger side defeated me for today. No matter how hard i pulled i couldnt get the sparkplug wires off the sparkplugs. So rather than get too frustrated i just put it back together and will try again tommarow.

    Only problem, one of the bolts for the AIR pipe (maybe thats the name) wouldnt go back in, so after struggling with it, it went back in. But then it wouldnt come out of the socket. And that is where it still sits, no matter what i tried it would not come out of the socket. I managed to get a 8mm bolt to go in half way, so atleast it stays in place.

  16. #16
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    if the wires are that bad to pull is possible that they may break when you pull them out. i would get a set of wires and if they don't break when you pull them then return them.

    I will suggest you replace the wires as well. Don't forget to put Dielectric grease in them.

  17. #17
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Carefully twist as you pull. That will usually break them free. As far as removing the socket, insert a 6" extension into the socket and start wiggling it - should pop off with a little leverage.

  18. #18
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Carefully twist as you pull. That will usually break them free. As far as removing the socket, insert a 6" extension into the socket and start wiggling it - should pop off with a little leverage.
    prior to inserting the extension give a shot of PB to help loosen it up.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    i never had luck from the bottom but give it a try. Great suggestion in the adjustable ratchet. I might have to get me one of those.
    Neither did I. Couldn't even get my arm up there if I recall correctly. I wonder if the exhaust differences across the years made some easier then others.

  20. #20
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Neither did I. Couldn't even get my arm up there if I recall correctly. I wonder if the exhaust differences across the years made some easier then others.

    Interesting. With stock exhaust it was very easy removing it from the bottom. Even with headers, I think I installed No. 8 from underneath - but do not have a clear recollection of that.

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