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  1. #1
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    Exclamation Something strange????

    I have a 2002 ss with the t-56 6 speed. Did the skip shift delete with a resistor from radio shack. All of a sudden i get in my car turn the key to the on position depress the clutch pedal and attempt to start the car nothing happens. Gauges and lights on the dash are all normal!?! Bring my truck over and attempt to jump it off.... same thing. get out my meter battery is fine. Beginning to think its the clutch switch if there even is one... So i "rock they key" back and forth. (twist key to on and off position rapidly) BAM it fires right up like it was no big deal. Runs fine but i did notice the security light on the gauge bezel stayed on for a bit, which is not normal. The only reason I am posting this is because it has happened a few times now. what can i bypass or replace to fix this? Thanks for the help.

    Tony.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    VATS is acting up

    Read this:
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/




    Still look at the safety switch for the clutch. Just follow the pedal up and you'll see a while cylinder thing that should be touching the pedal shaft. It may be off. They crack and break over time. You do have 2 options to fix this. Replace it or use zip ties to hold it in place. I did the second one, going on 3 yrs now and no issues.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-03-2013 at 11:03 AM.

  3. #3
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

  4. #4
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    looks like another trip back to radio shack for some more resistors. That link up there has a ton of info on doing the bypass.

  5. #5
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    looks like another trip back to radio shack for some more resistors. That link up there has a ton of info on doing the bypass.
    I put it in my favorites

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    looks like another trip back to radio shack for some more resistors. That link up there has a ton of info on doing the bypass.
    It seems this is the repair of the month lately....

  7. #7
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    looks like another trip back to radio shack for some more resistors. That link up there has a ton of info on doing the bypass.
    It seems this is the repair of the month lately....
    I hope to never have this problem.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
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  8. #8
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    The more I read about this issue, the more annoyed I become. And I don't even own an F-body.

  9. #9
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I hope to never have this problem.
    it's not "if".....it's "when". It's a bad design and will fail eventually. Unless you live in a ghetto you're probably better off just going ahead and doing the bypass before it gives you problems because at some point it will.

  10. #10
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    98 Formula
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    The more I read about this issue, the more annoyed I become. And I don't even own an F-body.
    at least it's an easy and cheap fix. Not having vats is no big deal to me. I grew up with cars that had the OG anti-theft system.....door locks.

  11. #11
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    VATS is acting up

    Read this:
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/



    Still look at the safety switch for the clutch. Just follow the pedal up and you'll see a while cylinder thing that should be touching the pedal shaft. It may be off. They crack and break over time. You do have 2 options to fix this. Replace it or use zip ties to hold it in place. I did the second one, going on 3 yrs now and no issues.

    Ok here is the scoop.... I have a fluke meter and am familiar with its operation and electrical. "Not familiar enough apparently" When I ohm across the chip ("silver part on one side of the key, from end to end") my meter spikes anywhere from 0.8-0.6 ohms. Then quickly works its way down to 0.2-0.1 ohms. It rocks between 0.1 and 0.2. and the meter is beeping indicating a completed circuit... My issue is what freaking resistor do I buy????
    Thanks for the help guys.

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

    Based on your readings it looks like you have pelet 3 Low 654 ohms, High 728ohms, nominal 681 ohms.



    This chart is for any GM product, Buick, Cadillac, Oldsombile, Chevrolet, and Pontiac that has a VATS key (single or double-sided.)

    VATS # (K)OHMS (Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)

    1———— 0.402
    2———— 0.523
    3———— 0.681
    4————-0.887
    5————-1.130
    6————-1.470
    7————-1.870
    8————-2.370
    9————-3.010
    10————3.740
    11————4.750
    12————6.040
    13————7.500
    14————9.530
    15————11.801


    which ever one you are closest too this is the resistor you need. You may need to combine a few to get around the number you need.

  13. #13
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    Ok i see my meter only has 1 ohm setting... thanks so much ill go pick up another meter.

  14. #14
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    No need for a new meter. Your fluke should be auto ranging, you won't have multiple settings for resistance readings.

    I believe your measuring it incorrectly. That low of a reading is for continuity, your measuring the key itself I believe. You need to measure the chip it's self.
    Last edited by KMdef9; 04-09-2013 at 11:03 AM.

  15. #15
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmdef9 View Post
    no need for a new meter. Your fluke should be auto ranging, you won't have multiple settings for resistance readings.

    I believe your measuring it incorrectly. That low of a reading is for continuity, your measuring the key itself i believe. you need to measure the chip it's self.
    this!!!!

  16. #16
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Custom Swirly Black
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    Here's what the setup should look like when your measuring the resistance. Careful not to touch ANYTHING else, other than the two little pieces of metal.




  17. #17
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    ok when i ohm like you show in the pictures i get no reading at all.... i was ohming from one end of the silver chip inside the black chip to the other... like it was a barrel fuse. i have a fluke 322 clamp meter

  18. #18
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Custom Swirly Black
    2001 WS6 M6

    The 322 is namely for higher load applications, residential, industrial, etc. But should work fine.

    I had to wiggle the leads alittle bit to get a reading on my meter. Try that, it should give you a reading after a few seconds sometimes (takes the autorange a few to catch up).

    Do you have your other set of keys?

  19. #19
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    red
    2002 35th LE SS

    yes and i have the same issue with the readings.... i do mostly industrial work... 480v stuff

  20. #20
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    you ohm that pellet from side to side....clean the pellet first with a pencil eraser or even hit it with some scotch brite or something to make sure you're making good contact.

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