slave cylinder issues

[Big D Squared]

Ok I just got done changing my mater due to a problem with my shifter would not go into gear properly like I was hitting a wall trying to put it into first and really all the gears at some point and If I try to put it in first when slowing down to a red light it hits a wall and when I try and force it into the gears will grind idk what it is I'm thinking it's something to do with the hydraulics but I know it's not the master o and also when I step on it sometimes it won't go into second at all at higher rpm's

[2002ssslp]

How many miles do you have on the car ? What color is your clutch fluid ? do you hear any noise from the throw out bearing when you push the clutch pedal in ? Do you have any trans fluid leaks ? Have you checked your trans mount ? Do you have a whine from the trans when you let off the gas ?

[SMWS6TA]

starting to sound like syncros, could be a bad slave.

[Big D Squared]

How many miles do you have on the car ? What color is your clutch fluid ? do you hear any noise from the throw out bearing when you push the clutch pedal in ? Do you have any trans fluid leaks ? Have you checked your trans mount ? Do you have a whine from the trans when you let off the gas ?

I have 128000 miles my clutch fluid was dark but flushed it out with the mity vac though the reservoir and now clear fluid and idk what the throw out bearing would sound like if it did make a sound I have a clunk when I push in the clutch and I have no tranny leaks and I have checked the trans mount it is fine and I have no whine

[Big D Squared]

O yeah and also I can't shift into second when I stomp on it

[SMWS6TA]

When's the last time you changed the clutch? If you are still on the orginal then you are long over due.

I still say your syncros and possible a bent fork is the main problem.

[Big D Squared]

When's the last time you changed the clutch? If you are still on the orginal then you are long over due.

I still say your syncros and possible a bent fork is the main problem.

so you don't think it is the slave I have never changed the clutch and the guy before me said it was stock so I was going to change the clutch and slave to see if it was that

[SMWS6TA]

Yeah you're long, long over due.

Stock Clutch life (varies on how the driver) is normally around 75,000 miles. Master & Slave cylinder's varies. Most are replaced at the same intervals as the clutch. More so for the slave then the Master. I heard guys never needing to replace them and then I've heard guys replace them at 30,000. Why - all I can say is quality is not the same anymore.

With as many miles as you got I would recommend having the tranny check internally too. Reason why - the stock syncros do go bad, especially when banging gears, same with the forks. If you need a rebuild I recommend a stage II. It get's the tranny up to about 600-660 lbs of TQ rated. That's great for stock or bolt on's and it doesn't break the bank. I can tell you a way to keep the cost down on a tranny rebuild, but I have to PM it to you if interested, let me know.




Now what I recommend:


I'm currently running a LS7 Clutch kit. Comes with LS2 flywheel, LS7 clutch, pressure plate and disk. Rated for 500 HP/550lbs of TQ. The last number is more important then the first. I would never get a stock LS1 clutch ever again. For most bolt on's and even under stock power this clutch is great and usually goes for about $500. Just a few dollars more then a stock one and much better to.

Stock Slaves are still very good even though I said above that quality might be an issue. Not every part is 100% perfect all the time.

Master cylinder - I've replaced mine (due to some shop idiot putting ATF fluid instead of DOT III break fluid) I have mixed feelings about the stock MC, one major fault is the hydraulic hose that connects to the slave is a known major issue. GM put a restrictive orifice and at high and rapid shifting it can drop the pedal or not release the clutch. There is a drill mod you can do that fixes this. Now after having a new MC for last 18 months I wish I went ahead and got a Tick Performance MC. It fixes it and it's adjustable. Much better function and product overall, but it does have a price tag. Goes for about $350, yeah that's high but I've never heard of anyone complaining about it ever.


Check out some of the sponsors, a few sell the LS7 clutch kit and I know you can get a OEM slave from gmpartsdirect.com for cheaper then anywhere else.

I know I threw out alot of high $$ fixes but they are worth it in the end. Most of these are consider budget build prices.

I just got quoted by a transmission shop for rebuilding my T56-

This is if I got a stock rebuild and they drop/install the tranny.
11.6 hrs Labor = $1085.55
Stock Parts = up $990.00
Total: $2075.55

This is if I bring in the tranny and supply the parts.
6.8 hrs Labor = $629.82
Stage II Parts = $ 635.95 (These I'll be supplying)
Total: $1265.77

I don't know where they got their parts from but for "stock" prices they seem very steep.

[redbird555]

Op what exactly does it do when it wont go into gear. Like if your at a stop and you push the clutch in does it go into 1st right away? And when you say you cant go to 2nd at WOT does it grind or just hit a wall.

To me it sounds like it maybe a hydraulic issue. If you had bad syncros in 1st it would likely go into 1st easy with the clutch in but it would just grind like hell. also the fact that you have issues with another gear throws up a flag for hydraulics... It sounds like you may have a slave or MC issue not letting the pressure plate fully depress the clutch.

At 128k your overdue for a clutch lol. The ls7 is a great system just be sure to measure for a slave shim when you put it in....Its not "required" but some do need them. I would go with a new oem style slave which can be picked up for about 65 bucks at autozone. Its the same one that gm and other places sell for 130, made in mexico and has AP cast into it just like the others do, it just comes in a duralast bag.

For the MC there really is no replacement for the TICK lol I bought a new stock one and it was leaking after 1 week. I said screw it and plunked down $325 for the tick and its awesome. Its fully adjustable as said, it has no in line restriction like the stocker, and uses a 7/8ths bore cylinder so it pumps more fluid which translates into a shorter pedal throw for you. Shifting at high rpms is lightyears better than the stock one ever was lol.

[2002ssslp]

I found several rebuilders who do work on the side. I pulled my trans and brought it to my guys house, he charged me 400 dollars labor and I paid for the stage II parts, TO bearing and fluid. Shop around. The Gear Box has a great stage II package for the T-56.