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07-31-2009, 12:16 AM #1
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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- 1,083
SOM- 2002 SS
Sigh... Panhard install... 3 hrs and counting ...
First of all the floor seems to crush no matter where I try to jack it. I'm sure this z having been through 7 winters hasn't helped but it's awfully squishy. I am having trouble getting the bolt out of the passenger side stock panhard bar. Doesn't seem to want to move. I just had to start doing the install at 1am... it's early and i don't want to pull out the sledgehammer.... UGHH THIS IS FRUSTRATING......dilfhoidshfhdsfhwieluGFIUwgidhsgj lfhldjksfhkkjdshfuahfjhagdjsfgjadsgfjagdsfhjadsjfk jads
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07-31-2009, 12:38 AM #2
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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- 1,083
SOM- 2002 SS
i get the fail award for the week. i did manage to adjust my exhaust a bit better... back to the stubborn bolt....
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07-31-2009, 12:44 AM #3
Pb blaster or simple penitrateing oil, and heat, heat, and if nessisary heat it somemore.. Propane torch-cheap but effective....
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07-31-2009, 12:53 AM #4
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
tried penetrating spray a few times.. I have no idea where the wifey put the propane torch... I am so pissed beyond belief she always comes in here and tries to clean everything up then I can never find it....fhjadhfadhfahsdjfksjh
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07-31-2009, 12:58 AM #5
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07-31-2009, 01:03 AM #6
maybe a short pipe on the ratchet handle will help too. I have a ratchet that has a handle that extends and locks and swivels. Not helping you but something to maybe consider for future referance
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07-31-2009, 01:10 AM #7
- Join Date
- May 2009
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- Toronto
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- 1,083
SOM- 2002 SS
appreciate the help guys. The nut is already off. It's just the bolt inside the bar. the drivers side bolt is out and that side is on the ground. I can't seem to just get the bolt out of the one side. The effort required to just turn it in either direction is almost as much as I used to remove the nut itself. It's 5am... a little more time and I'll start banging away with the sledge hammer!
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07-31-2009, 01:12 AM #8
Comes in very handy @ times..
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07-31-2009, 01:18 AM #9
- Join Date
- May 2009
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- Toronto
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- 1,083
SOM- 2002 SS
The problem isn't getting a handle on it although that tool looks pretty epic. I should get me one of those. I just moved a few month ago so I don't have my full arsenal of weapons at my disposal. My huge tool box is still at my parents but I have most the basic stuff right now. I think the end of the bolt just needs to be whacked and it will back out. Right now the head is snug against the body and rotates in both directions but I can't get it to back out. again the nut is already off the back of the bolt....
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07-31-2009, 01:26 AM #10
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Here's what I'm Looking at..
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07-31-2009, 01:34 AM #11
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Well I gave it 1 good whack and it was loud as hell... and it didnt budge at all. I had planned on doing the wires, 160 t-stat and the shorter shift lever (and a wash/detail before work) all tonight/morning but I guess 1 stubborn bolt is gonna put an end to my morning
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07-31-2009, 01:46 AM #12
Yep that bolt can be a bish, I did my fuel pump about a month ago and can tell ya, even with no rust that bolt is a bish.lol I put the nut back on till the point of the bolt was flush with the nut and gave it a few wacks. Try raising the axle some to get some tension off of it. But depending on how high you raise your axle the othr end will either hit the sping or the spring cup. But if you can get it started then lower the axle till the bolt clears between the coils. Then a good punch or heavy screw driver (philips) will drift it out pretty easily..good luck.
Last edited by Smittro; 07-31-2009 at 01:51 AM.
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07-31-2009, 02:25 AM #13
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Taking a nap for a few before I start making noise with my huge hammers ! The drivers side nut/bolt are already out the left side of the bar in the pic is just hanging loose. I think it just needs some whacks and it'll come out. I doused it in penetrating spray I'll be sure to post the outcome
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07-31-2009, 02:38 AM #14
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- Oct 2007
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- Beaver Dam KY
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- 7,745
79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
Beat the crap outta it man. Its probably just in bind.
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07-31-2009, 06:52 AM #15
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- Feb 2008
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- NEW JERSEY
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- 814
PEWTER- 2001 TRANS AM WS6
get a bigger hammer
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07-31-2009, 07:35 AM #16
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- Jun 2008
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- Annapolis, MD
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- 1,111
BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes- 2010 Camaro 2SS/M6
that bolt is a pain in the freaking ass and it's in the wost possible spot to even swing a hammer at it. Penetrate with WD40 or PB Blaster for a while, heat helps but try not to start a fire 'cos the rubber bushing will burn! After that it's just trying to get a good angle to whack it with the damn persuader (aka hammer)
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07-31-2009, 07:43 AM #17
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Thanks for the input guys. I was up and going at 10am. Hit home depot to buy a torch. I was able to use my 6lb 25 inch sledge and get some good whacks at it (god it must've been hard to be an executioner in the mideivel days lol) . here's the result. I am stumped. I need to be at work at 3pm and 1 bolt has held me up 9 hrs so far. The entire tab has bent backwards. The bolt is clearly rusted tight to the metal sleeve in the stock bushing. It rotates with it. If I am torching this what should I be heating up? the sleeve or the bolt head?
help guys...
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07-31-2009, 08:01 AM #18
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- Jan 2008
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- Waco
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- 1,186
2005 Ram SRT-10 QC 8.3l- 1999 FRC Black
Sup man, it always sucks when yo have a project you estimate as a couple hour thing and because of some stupid bolt or ( location of #8plug) LOL the project takes hours longer. I will tell you what helped me and you can try these things. First off ( and most important I learned) is you have to have the jacked up height of the car in just the right height so the bolt isn't in a bind against the mount. You can raise it higher and the bolt is tight, let it too low and the bolt is tight. Meet in the middle and you can push the bolt out by hand (most of the time)! The other problem that you may have encountered is Electrolosis when different alloy or metal is against another different metal and they fuse together. ( hence the anti-seize on the spark plugs due to a steel plug and an aluminum head) Can you tell I love changing plugs? To cure this as someone else mentioned douse it in WD40 ( since the guy died this week) or PB blaster and soak for awhile. After it has worked it's magic beat the shit out of it at various heights with the raising or lowering of the jack to find the seet spot. If no-go then dry area with a rag to sop most penetrating oil and bust out the propane or Mapp gas torch and heat the BRACKET NOT THE BOLT. Heat makes stuff expand by nature and if you heat the bolt up you'll have even more hell getting it out. Don't get me wrong some heat will get at the bolt since you are heating around the bolt ,but primarily the tip of the flame should concentrate on the bracket that the PB attaches to. Be sure and try to bend that bracket back since when you were hammering the bolt it was only bending the mount since the bolt was in a bind or fused to the mount. Vise grips or a big set of c-clamops or something should help since the bracket isn't too strong from the get go. Good luck and hope this helps some.
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07-31-2009, 08:07 AM #19
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Appreciate the input .. and I GOT IT WOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Venoum there's no bind because the other side bolt and nut are already out the driver side of the bar is just hanging. I ended up using vice grips on the part of the bushing sleeve that was visible and clamping it super tight and trying to turn the bolt head the opposite direction. After lighting the bushing on fire for 10 minutes and some more pb the bolt nudged and I just knocked it out !!!!
Now to bend the dam bracket back in place.....Last edited by 5abivt; 07-31-2009 at 12:03 PM.
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07-31-2009, 09:13 AM #20
Glad you got it out in time, my first time I had to use a impact gun, then when it came to the passenger side i'm sure you know it won't fit so I had to use a wrench and a hammer I swear I hurt my bones prying that thing loose
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