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Thread: SES light

  1. #1
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    SES light

    My SES light came on today as I turned the heat to the wind shield and feet position and the fan speed to 2. I'm not sure if it was a coincidence or if it was related, but I don't have access to a code reader at the moment.

    The car runs fine so I was wondering if it would be alright to drive it in the meantime or should I get it looked at as soon as possible?

  2. #2
    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    Blackened fire chicken
    2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

    sounds like a coincidence to me. Thats just my opinion though...its still alright to drive, but you should still get it looked at soon so you know what codes you have. If the light is flashing pull over,turn it off, and get a tow truck!

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    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    As long as the light isn't flashing you are probably ok. As a precautionary measure, I always look under the hood and check fluids and gauge readings when the SES comes on if I do not have my scanner on hand.

  4. #4
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Agree. Sounds like a coincidence with the fan and heat. Getting the codes read is your best option.

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    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    I went to my local garage today and I have a "P1416 AIR System Bank 2" code. I presume that's the passenger side, does anyone know specifically what's wrong from the code number?

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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
    2000 Camaro Z28

    Probably the check valve. Or maybe the air pump starting to go bad.

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    Can I do anything in the meantime to stop a code being thrown again, such as pulling fuses and relays?

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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
    2000 Camaro Z28

    You can try pulling the fuse. But it may not help. You can also try cleaning the check valve and see if that helps or replace it altogether. Start with the little things.

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    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Agree. Most likely the check valve. Here is a diagnostic for the secondary air system: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/seconda...emoval-130641/

  10. #10
    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    Blackened fire chicken
    2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

    the check valves are really easy to replace, and they aren't too expensive either. I think they're like $15-$20 and it's like a 10 minute job (if they aren't rusted on too bad, haha) I've replaced 2 of them on the passenger side so far...just be careful and don't bend/break the pipe that's connected to the check valve.
    heres the part number "ACDelco 214-1045 Valve Assembly"
    SMOKE 'EM IF YOU GOT 'EM!

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    If it is the check valve, rather than waste money on replacing something that I will eventually remove, would it be possible to simply cut off the check valves leaving the tubes just behind them in place? This way the pump would still be able to draw air and blow it through the remaining pipes where the check valves used to be. This would be a temporary measure until a tune and wouldn't be a problem for emissions in the UK.
    Naturally I would remove the check valves and remaining pipes and install block-off plates.
    Does anyone know if taking this approach would throw a code?

  12. #12
    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    Blackened fire chicken
    2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

    no, don't do that! you need the check valves...or you can remove the whole AIR system and get it tuned, but that'll cost some money AND you'll have trouble passing a smog inspection unless you know somebody :wink wink: haha

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    Quote Originally Posted by godless-phoenix View Post
    no, don't do that! you need the check valves...or you can remove the whole AIR system and get it tuned, but that'll cost some money AND you'll have trouble passing a smog inspection unless you know somebody :wink wink: haha
    That's a shame, looks like I'll have to try giving them a clean. The AIR system, fortunately, isn't on the inspection list so no worries there.

  14. #14
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I am not sure how the system detects a faulty check valve. The SES was coming on when we bought our car and it turned out to be the passenger side check valve. I replaced them both and they were a complete bugger to remove. I ended up unbolting the tubes from the manifolds and then heated the fittings on the check valves up with a torch to break them free. Around a year or so later, I simply removed the entire system from the car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I am not sure how the system detects a faulty check valve.
    My guess is that the valve doesn't fully open when the pump is running, that's why I thought I could get away with having just the tubes temporarily. I presume the check valve is there to stop exhaust gases going up the tube while the pump isn't pumping. That's where I got the thought that if it's detached from the manifold and check valves, there would be no chance of exhaust gases going up the pipe, but air could flow freely down the pipe while the pump is working. I would have thought the PCM wouldn't have cause to think anything was wrong.

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