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06-12-2016, 08:55 PM #1
- Join Date
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Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Rear pads wearing out before the fronts?
A year or two ago, I had all of my pads and rotors replace in my car, just got the oil changed and they did the normal check outs of the vitals, and came back with the front pads being at 10/32 and the rears are at 4/32, anyone ever see anything like this before?
Do our cars have any problems with the load sensing proportioning valves? I just find it really odd that thte rears are so quickly going through pads then the front!
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06-13-2016, 02:46 AM #2
I was thinking that the proportioning valves could be the culprit, but maybe its something simpler: do the fronts and rears start with the same amount of pad material? If not, perhaps the wear is normal?
Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter
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06-13-2016, 05:51 AM #3
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Rear pads wearing out before the fronts?
same material thickness = yes.
I agree on the pv setup being the likely issue. It takes time dialing them in right.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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06-13-2016, 10:48 AM #4
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06-13-2016, 10:57 AM #5
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I'm sorry I think I misread or understood something.
Stock ABS or you are running PV's like I am?
It's two different responses....
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06-13-2016, 04:03 PM #6
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06-13-2016, 05:44 PM #7
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Same brand for front & rear?
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06-13-2016, 08:08 PM #8
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- Bel Air, Maryland
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Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Yup.
SLP Air Lid/Smooth Bellows
L76 6.0L block, PRC Ported 243 heads, Texas Speed 224R cam.
Kooks Emissions LT Headers/Catted Y pipe
NGK TR55 plugs
Magnaflow Cat-back
Spohn Front Upper Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Lower Tubular Control Arms
UMI Front Sway Bar
UMI Rear Lower Control Arms/ Adjustable Panhard Rod
UMI Welded-on Two Piece Subframe Connectors
Factory C5 Z06 17x9.5 wheels w/ 285-40-17 Continental Extreme Contact Sports all the way around.
Dyno Dynamics dynoed @:
415 rwhp
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06-13-2016, 08:18 PM #9
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
hmm....I'm stumped now....
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06-14-2016, 06:31 AM #10
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Silver- '02 Trans Am WS-6, 6M
Me too. Whatever the problem is, its forcing a bias to the rear brakes.
Its not just one rear pad, so its unlikely a caliper or hardware issue.
I don't have traction control, so its a three channel ABS system, which would link the hydraulics of both sides of the rear together. I dont nnow if there is a valve in the "T" junction for the lines that might make pressure/fluid to flow to the calipers easier than away, increasing rear pressure at a higher rate than the fronts?
These pads were definately on the car when I dynoed it, so there was no drag then, now if it did in the 6/32 worth after the tune, thats a different story but I think that would be fairly obvious to me.
Anyone have access to AllData, or a TSB site?
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06-14-2016, 05:00 PM #11
It is possible that the rubber hose in the rear has deteriorated internally and is holding pressure toward the wheel cylinders. The internal rubber gets soft and starts to act like a one way valve or at least a one way slow restriction when you press on the brakes. The pressure creates enough drag to wear the pads and heat up the rotors but not enough to really feel from the driver's seat. Can't see the deterioration of the hose from the outside. Given the age of our cars, this would be my guess. Swap the rear hose, bleed the brakes all around and see if the problem goes away.
ATI Procharger, SFCs, Y-pipe, LM2, BBK Shorty Headers, Corvette N73 Magnesium Wheels, 4th Circle Designs Stripe and Overlay kit
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06-14-2016, 06:17 PM #12
Rear pads wearing out before the fronts?
brake stands
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06-14-2016, 07:45 PM #13
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06-15-2016, 02:37 AM #14
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06-15-2016, 05:10 AM #15
Yes.
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06-15-2016, 01:43 PM #16
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06-16-2016, 02:36 AM #17
I have had what Steve posted happen once on an older GM, so it is possible that a rubber line has collapsed. Other than that, I would suspect that the caliper pins are dried out and sticking when there is unusual brake wear.
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06-17-2016, 08:45 AM #18
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06-17-2016, 02:57 PM #19
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06-17-2016, 03:04 PM #20
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