Quest for the "PERFECT" Cam

[NightRiderZ]

Ok i know there isnt such thing as a perfect cam...but for my application whitch is daily driver, my goal 380-420rwhp....*ESTIMATION* =D
Car is a 1998 Convert Z28, just installed air lid, tb bypass, have headers and ory in the mail...waiting to pick a stall accordingly to my final cam selection...I want that choppy gurgle badass sound, along with the balls of my power band low - mid range...so heres my proposal

**PERFECT CAM** Custom Grind

230/230 XER (DURATION @ .050)
592"/592" (LIFT)
113 (LSA) (I would hate to choose sides between the lovely 112 and the
sleeper 114LSA)
109 ICL

**CONCLUSION**
Very streetable cam, not too much or too little lift or dur...This cam shall keep my Power Band around 1800-6600RPM (Just a notch above the 228R and a notch Under the Magic Stick

[Johns00Z28]

I saw a guy on tech that runs a 230/230 cam only and has dipped into the 10's so it's definitely a good cam for both streetability and performance.

[NightRiderZ]

Definitely.....I don't have near the experience as half you fellas'. Considering I'm looking at throwing on some TSP 2.5s eventually (shortly after or with the cam when it goes in)...

But with the 2.02 /1.575" specs on the heads i was thinking even going 232/230 duration on the cam to keep that intake valve open a little longer while slightly raising the intake lift, i think i would get more out of the setup this way by theory right??

[NightRiderZ]

*Bump*

Anyone know if upping the intake would be a good idea??? Or any ideas at all to better my setup will surely help..I just want the missing link to the TSP 2.5s, what cam would be perfect with them to put down the most power...

[NoscamaroSS]

Take a look at the TR230 reverse split cam. It has all the same characteristics as the TR224, but with a more aggressive idle and 10-15hp over the 224.

[side2000]

depending on how ya are, that may be too aggressive for your auto. not sayin i wouldn't run it (cuz i would...), but you're prob gonna have idle issues. gonna have to crank it up a bit so it doesnt lope too low while youre at stop lights w/ foot on brake.

[Frost]

a 23x/23x cam on a 114 is no sleeper!

why not get cam motion to do a custom for your setup?

[side2000]

really if you dont plan on doin anything to your heads i wouldnt' get that cam at all.......i'd get somethin in the mid 220's. .550-.570 range. so you can keep some of that torque. a lil head work or aftermarket heads would work great w/ that cam. but what do i know i only have 100 posts.

[Midnight02]

Looks like a great selection based on your criteria. That cam is ever so slightly more aggressive than the Trick Flow cam I have in my SS. My cam is truly a "middle of the road" cam that balances driveability with performance.

The driveability should be great and cam only you should hit somewhere in the ballpark of 390 - 400 rwhp on a dynojet after the tune. I loved my cam swap, however I really didn't realize the full benefit of the mod until I replaced the heads. It's a beautiful thing when the two (heads and cam) do a nice job complimenting one another.

[NightRiderZ]

a 23x/23x cam on a 114 is no sleeper!

why not get cam motion to do a custom for your setup?

On a 113!!! hehe

Actually the "Reverse Split" - 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA doesnt look too bad...i just dont like the 111LSA, as opposed to the other cams on the site, this one says it doesnt "Require" a stall off the bat, whitch i will get one but i was wondering why it didnt suggest one....and the graph shows 410/389tq, how could this be (without supporting mods) they claim this is with a bone stock ls1 with a cam only...thats over 100hp at the crank with just this cam..thats outrageous

[Frost]

that reverse cam is OLD. There are newer and better researched (just better) things available now. You said in your post you want power in the mid to low area... you sure aren't gonna get it with the grinds being discussed on this page.

Low and middle ---> 224/224 on a 112LSA. It has sound, makes really useable tq, and I have had more than 1 of them cross the 400rwhp mark with an unported Fast and headers (stock heads). 375-390 pretty easily with a stock LS6 intake... those are M6 numbers.

If you are an auto, do the stall before the cam. This is important.

[jujofields]

that reverse cam is OLD. There are newer and better researched (just better) things available now. You said in your post you want power in the mid to low area... you sure aren't gonna get it with the grinds being discussed on this page.

Low and middle ---> 224/224 on a 112LSA. It has sound, makes really useable tq, and I have had more than 1 of them cross the 400rwhp mark with an unported Fast and headers (stock heads). 375-390 pretty easily with a stock LS6 intake... those are M6 numbers.

If you are an auto, do the stall before the cam. This is important.

I was under the impression that it's best to do the cam and then get the stall, that way you can pick a stall that really lines up with the power curve. Why is it the other way around?

[Frost]

they do need to compliment one another, so they need to bought as a pair or at least thought of as such. Your tuner will hate you if you bring in a cammed car with a stock stall. It will take him a ton of time down low (well, depending on the setup) and it may never idle right at all with a tight stock stall in gear. The airflow needed for idle with a cam like that will make the car "push" and buck and all kinds of PITA stuff. I have lost tons of time working on cars in this state in the past. Idle tuning will have to be completely re-done again after the stall.

[NightRiderZ]

that reverse cam is OLD. There are newer and better researched (just better) things available now. You said in your post you want power in the mid to low area... you sure aren't gonna get it with the grinds being discussed on this page.

Low and middle ---> 224/224 on a 112LSA. It has sound, makes really useable tq, and I have had more than 1 of them cross the 400rwhp mark with an unported Fast and headers (stock heads). 375-390 pretty easily with a stock LS6 intake... those are M6 numbers.

If you are an auto, do the stall before the cam. This is important.

I see...what do you think about my custom grind selection....??? Have you ever had experience with a 113LSA?? What do you know about them...ive done research but i would rather you guys' pro opinions.......I dont see what makes it a bad selection, like i said its a very streetable cam and perfect for my setup, as a daily driver. Like i said, can you perfect my mistakes per say, i will probably have Stocker heads for a while...with my setup i will easily hit 380rwhp with that Custom Cam, lid, LTs and ORY, LS6 intake, 3400 Stall, and Upgraded Cats + Tune....what do you think???



PS I have chosen to stick with the stocker heads for now (maybe port them down the road after i get all this sh*t installed...So will my cam be a good match for stock heads and my setup???? Or should i go slightly bigger cam (more towards

the magic stick

or custom 232/232 dur 595 lift, 113LSA

[Frost]

230 on a 113LSA is not what I would call a low to mid range cam. Maybe these days it's considered middle of the road, but it's not small. Most of the driveability will be up to your tuner to get right, so pick a good one; there are plenty in TX.

[NightRiderZ]

Yeah i guess your right, ive researched a LOTTTT before and after i made this good thread, im expecting my band to be within2000 - 6600+

P.S. I cant install these parts myself and i would hate to have a buddy just do it for me, but i will pay ( for beer =) and labor if there is anyone around here who can help me...im in southeast texas right in houston....Ive looked it up, i will be paying 4,300$ ++ + for just to have my cam installed with Headers/ORY, stall and intake + TUNE....thats more than half what i paid for the damn car!! this is fucki*n rediculous, i would like some help brothers =( im sad at this point...i have the parts and ive tried to mess around under the hood but theres just no way with the little experience i have...im depressed

[NightRiderZ]

Yeah i guess your right, ive researched a LOTTTT before and after i made this good thread, im expecting my band to be within2000 - 6600+
ats more than half what i paid for the damn car!! this is fucki*n rediculous, i would like some help brothers =( im sad at this point...i have the parts and ive tried to mess around under the hood but theres just no way with the little experience i have...im depressed

P.S. I would like some more input on my cam setup (and also what you guys think about the 113LSA 109ICL

[Kamarobuddy]

I run a Cam Motion 234 / 238 reverse split that are matched to me CNC Ported heads! totally recommend Cam Motion!