pwr window motor?

**knightryda01** · 08-08-2009, 10:07 AM

i need some help guys. think my driverside window motor is going out. it dident wanna go up all the way last night. i had to pull it up while pushin the button. what am i lookin at repair and cost wise.

**MistrCreazil** · 08-08-2009, 10:36 AM

Several hundred if you go through a dealership..

or

$40 at autozone + time spent putting it back in yourself.

Your choice.

**FBracing1222** · 08-08-2009, 03:32 PM

^^ what he said is pretty much exactly right.

**KMdef9** · 08-08-2009, 03:43 PM

I got mine from advanced auto parts. They sell you re-manufactured motors, but it came with a lifetime warranty, so make sure yours does too if you go that route. I have changed that motor 3 times now, it doesn't last long. Cheap, but changing it every year gets to be a pain.

They sell a brand new ones but I think they wanted $150 for it. I've seen brand new ones on ebay for a better price, that way you don't have to go through the hassel as often.

Pick your poison.

**02transamce** · 08-08-2009, 04:43 PM

try www.rockauto.com also get a repair manual if you don't already have one.i think the window regulator is spring loaded,don't want you to lose a finger.

**KMdef9** · 08-08-2009, 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by 02transamce

try www.rockauto.com also get a repair manual if you don't already have one.i think the window regulator is spring loaded,don't want you to lose a finger.

I purchased my car used and when the first motor went and I took the door apart and found 3 holes predrilled. With a custom cut 2x2 (also found that my eastwing hammer worked too), I wedged the window in the up positon. The 3 holes were right where the 3 moutning nut and bolts were for the motor. Unplugged the motor, removed the 3 nuts and bolts and removed the motor. The spring is "unloaded" when the window is in the up position, but you don't have to deal with any part besides the motor when you can get to the 3 mounting nuts and bolts (which is impossible without the predrilled holes). The hardest part to my whole experience was getting the motor gear lined up with window gear, so not too bad. Some patience with tiny nuts and bolts and your all set. I need to take my doors off sometime this week to fix some cracks, I'll take some pics of the predrilled holes. I read my Chilton manual and that had me removing the whole window and the whole mechanism, 10x as difficult as the way i ended up doing it.

**02transamce** · 08-08-2009, 05:02 PM

seen them both ways,worked for ford dealership for years,there were some window regulators that had to be zip tied together so when you removed the motor the regulator assembly wouldn't cut off a finger.didn't know if a t/a was like that or not.good post.

**SHines-IT** · 08-08-2009, 07:50 PM

Replaced mine last week, brand new motor. $50, kinda noisey at first but it tone it's self down... Easy fix, but a buddy next door wanted to help, but he fucked it up... So an short job, took all day. 60 year old guy who drag races his 10 sec 55 Chevy, would be smarter...

**Z28_Driver** · 08-09-2009, 02:57 PM

A spring clamp on the door beam will hold the window up and keep your fingers safe.
Its not a very hard job, just takes a couple hours at most and will save you money.
Good Luck.

**rbob93** · 08-09-2009, 03:58 PM

Rubber door stop between glass & door works very nicely

**aviationphotog** · 01-02-2010, 09:07 AM

replacing mine and was wondering if spring has to be re-cocked before putting back together? thanks, Henry

**00z28bubba** · 01-02-2010, 09:20 AM

there is a sponsor on here that sells a kit that wires the passenger motor to the battery seprately. oem set up has the power wire going to the drivers window first and passenger second but all on one power wire. wired like that kills both motors a lot faster than they should. though both motors will go out eventually the kit will at least make them last as long as the stocers life expectancy.