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Thread: Power gain
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07-14-2015, 04:05 AM #1
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- Jun 2012
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- florida
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Power gain
What is the one greatest power gain I can do to my 2004 LS1 that would cost under $1000?
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07-14-2015, 06:50 AM #2
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07-14-2015, 06:57 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
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- Montpelier, VA
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- 37
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- 521
Pewter- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am
what are your goals for the car? what have you already done? if stock its gotta breath before anything else, so full exhaust keep egr, air, and cats tho. there's no reason to remove them, egr shuts off at full throttle and air only runs for a couple min when you start the vehicle and it doesn't hurt power at all plus the weight savings is only around 15-20lbs for both systems. plus its a bitch getting it inspected some guys are strict, it covers their ass so i see why.
Intake/airbox would be next, stay away from k&n filters tho, they can coat your maf with oil if you dont maintain it correctly, which you probably wont.
cam will always boost power, but they gotta breath, a radical cam on stock exhaust will add a few horses, but nothing compared to the same cam with a less restrictive intake and exhaust.RIP Drew 9/16/1987-11/15/2009
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07-14-2015, 04:25 PM #4
What 0rion said.
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07-14-2015, 06:10 PM #5
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- Jun 2012
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- florida
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- 545
fast intake
i was thinking about a 102mm fast intake but its pushing a grand. Does anyone make shorty headers for the 2004 gto that would bolt up to the existing cats or would that not be worth doing?
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07-15-2015, 02:55 AM #6
The consensus is that shorties simply are not worth the effort. You can probably grab a set of Pacesetters or OBX longtubes, together with a Y, within that budget.
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07-15-2015, 04:24 AM #7
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- Jun 2012
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- florida
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- 545
headers
How can I run long tubes and keep the cats?
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07-15-2015, 04:42 AM #8
There are Y-pipes made specifically for long tubes that retain the cats.
It's just a matter of whether your state complains about "moving" the cats to a different location.
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07-16-2015, 08:12 AM #9
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- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,764
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
FL like AL inspections.....
LT's are ok, shorties are just not worth it unless you're looking for boost applications.
And regarding a FAST 102, that $1000 cost is just for the intake. I just went through all of this so I'm very certain of the cost:
Need to add into the cost: new TB (avg $380-420, recommend the NW102 TB), injectors (this varies a lot on the style of injector. For LS3's you'll need the FAST spacers $38 and wire harness adapters $35 in addition to injectors), LS2 or after market fuel rail ($200 and up, LS1 will not work with the intake) and tuning (starting at $500 for the dyno). If you are set on a FAST102 wait to do it in conjunction with Heads/Cam upgrade. Save you $$$$$ in tuning.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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07-16-2015, 08:14 AM #10
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- May 2013
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- Nashville, TN
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- 1,434
Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
You live in Florida so get long tubes and be done with it...that will net you the biggest gain right off the bat and you need it to build off of. Long tubes should be your first mod in my opinion.
2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Laramie Limited
2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport Premium Hemi - Sold
2010 Hemi Crew Cab Sport Premium - Tuner and HID's - Sold
06 Quad Cab HHHHemi - Sold
99 Hugger Orange Camaro - Sold
97 Camaro - Sold
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07-16-2015, 03:42 PM #11
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07-19-2015, 06:28 PM #12
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- Jan 2009
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- North Jersey
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
I agree on the LT option as you live in FL. Get a tune too.
extreme dimensions, driveshaft shop, harrop, hid(35watt/6k) lows, hurst, k&n, led fogs, maverick man, mishimoto, nitto, revshift, slp, stern st-1, smoked sidemarkers, whiteline poly radius rod bushings
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07-19-2015, 06:44 PM #13
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- Jan 2009
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- 11,496
Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
That varies on the vehicle. Rear seat delete could be done by the owner themself, which is probably 20lbs if not more. Headers are lighter than cast iron factory exhaust manifolds. Pacesetter headers can be had for $200-300. Delete the cats and you're probably losing another 2/3lbs. If the car has a steel driveshaft, switching to an aluminum saves weight($500-1000 if carbon fiber). Drilled/slotted brake rotors can be had for $250+ depending on brand.
If you do all the work yourself, you can save some coin.
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07-19-2015, 08:10 PM #14
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- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
No cost:
In addition if this is to be fully lighten remove all the sound material, carpet and passenger seat. All the plastic panels.
K Member is the heaviest item on the front, with exception to the engine. Tube chassis like UMI or some of the other aftermarket. It's about $500 or more for those. Tubular A arms help also.
There is also some material that can be removed from under the nose piece. There is a tubular piece it replaces but it's a few lbs too.
Other then that there's not much else with out compromising safety and vehicle integrity.
Glass is the other heaviest item left.
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07-20-2015, 07:36 AM #15
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07-20-2015, 02:51 PM #16
I weighed most of the parts swapped out on my car and also the car itself a couple of times during the process. My biggest weight drop was swapping out the stock wheels and tires for a track specific setup.
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07-20-2015, 03:10 PM #17
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07-20-2015, 05:14 PM #18
Stock K-member is 55.5 lbs and the UMI tubular K-member weighed in at 32.5 lbs. So there was a 23 lb. difference.
Here's a link to that section of my K-member swap thread: K-member swap and upgrades - Page 3Last edited by pajeff02; 07-20-2015 at 05:16 PM.
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