Possible stupid engine build question

**JwMonE99** · 06-22-2009, 06:45 PM

Well I have a spare LT1 block I was wanting to build then swap when I am done. Unfortunately because of the economy I don't have the money I originally thought I would to play with. I am thinking about selling the block and use the money for parts.
Original plans was going to to be a forged 383. Now I am thinking about going with just a forged 350.
My question is is it ok I can just leave the motor in the car put on a lift, drop the oil plan and replace the crank, rods, and pistons. My motor was rebuilt by jaspers (I bought the car with the motor already in not knowing) so I am going to get with them and see if it still has the standard bore or stock bore for the piston size. I want to go with a forged assembly because I want to spray the car as well and I am looking at H/C/I packages. I guess bottom line my question is if its ok do replace the bottom end without having the whole block cleaned out.
Also how much of a difference am I going to see between a forged 383 vs. forged 350 (possibly 355 if block with already bored .30 over)

**zmg00camaross** · 06-22-2009, 10:08 PM

It would work I have pulled pistons in semi truck when doing in chassis rebuilt. Remove the head and pop pistons out pop new In With assembly lube. But we do replace the cylinder liners. I don't recommend it but it probly would work.

**JwMonE99** · 06-23-2009, 04:50 AM

Why would you not recommend it?
Also how much difference I am looking at compared to a 383

**mark21742** · 06-23-2009, 05:37 AM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

Why would you not recommend it?
Also how much difference I am looking at compared to a 383

I'd look to rent or borrow a hoist from someone. once you have it tore down there isn't many more bolts to pull the motor.....in the end you'll save time and your back from beiing bent over in the engine bay.
I highly recomend cleaning and having block and heads checked over during any rebuild

**pajeff02** · 06-23-2009, 05:57 AM

I don't think I can reccomend an in car re-build -- you are just so much farther ahead spending the extra 2-3 hours to pull the motor and put it on a stand.

At the very least, you will probably want to check your cylinder dimensions for bore and taper, and then depending upon what you find de-glaze or re-hone the cylinders before dropping in new pistons.

You will also want to check your bearing clearances on your mains and rods and clean out any accumulated gunk from the block.

It would be difficult to do all this in the car on a lift. Not sure of the miles or parts in the existing motor, but a new oil pump and timing chain is cheap insurance.

**ronnie tadlock** · 06-23-2009, 06:44 AM

Personally I wouldn't want to be underneath it trying to hold up a heavy crank and install the main bearing caps. You'll have to separate the transmission or torque converter from the engine to get the crank out (unless there isn't one in the car anyway) so I'd pull it all out at once.

**Smittro** · 06-23-2009, 06:58 AM

+1000! Pull it man. Much much easier to work on. Think about the pain of dropping a crankshaft on your face if it were to slip out of your hand. Think about how much a crankshaft weighs. If it falls it's comming down right NOW. Holding the crank up with one hand and trying to put on caps with the other is a busted skull waiting to happen. I guess you could do it that way if you have something (someone) to hold it there while you work. But man, if it slips and falls wow... Last thing you gonna see is a flash.

Good luck man..

**mark21742** · 06-23-2009, 07:14 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

+1000! Pull it man. Much much easier to work on. Think about the pain of dropping a crankshaft on your face if it were to slip out of your hand. Think about how much a crankshaft weighs. If it falls it's comming down right NOW. Holding the crank up with one hand and trying to put on caps with the other is a busted skull waiting to happen. I guess you could do it that way if you have something (someone) to hold it there while you work. But man, if it slips and falls wow... Last thing you gonna see is a flash.

Good luck man..

the other week I pulled towards myself.....split my forehead opened,broke my nose and knocked myself out with a 1/2" drive ratchet lol.....id hate to see the damage I crank could do

**pajeff02** · 06-23-2009, 07:30 AM

Originally Posted by mark21742

the other week I pulled towards myself.....split my forehead opened,broke my nose and knocked myself out with a 1/2" drive ratchet lol.....id hate to see the damage I crank could do

Ouch! Bet you never do that again. I always try to position myself to mimimize damage if something lets loose. Scariest moment I had was torquing the bolts on my lift that retain the arms -- specs called for something close to 1,000 ft/lbs so it was large tools and big pipes all the way!

**zmg00camaross** · 06-23-2009, 08:06 AM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

Why would you not recommend it?
Also how much difference I am looking at compared to a 383

I just don't recommended it because I would want to clean the block first. And to check bearing clearances would be easier. I have seen ppl put new bearings in and didn't check clearances and it ran fin for a long time. Others they wipe out a bearing very quick. But a another thing is cam bearings I would replace those and that would be a pain in the car .

**mark21742** · 06-23-2009, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Ouch! Bet you never do that again. I always try to position myself to mimimize damage if something lets loose. Scariest moment I had was torquing the bolts on my lift that retain the arms -- specs called for something close to 1,000 ft/lbs so it was large tools and big pipes all the way!

give me a week or two. I'll do something else stupid to hurt myself lol