p1133 and p1153

**Kyle C** · 03-09-2009, 12:57 PM

I believe these codes are from the front O2 sensors. I drove for a mile or so not paying attention, in 6th gear, at about 45mph up a slight incline. Any chance that that could throw both of these code? I cleared them and plan to drive normally (idle-6k) for a while and see if they come back.
The car has LT with catted Y but the rear O2's have been tuned out.

Just wondering

**0rion** · 03-09-2009, 04:13 PM

LT's will cause the O2's to get lazy. Those are switching codes. How many miles are on your O2's? Do you still have your rears laying around somewhere? You could try swapping them out and see if that helps but like I say, pretty common with LT's. Just clear it and go. I've yet to see a tuning solution for this but that doesn't mean there isn't one. I just haven't seen it if there is. PM frost and ask him if he can fix the slow switching issue.

**ntimid8r** · 03-09-2009, 04:16 PM

I'm dealing with that same situation right now. My tuner said he uses Denso brand O2's and they seem to work for him. I just received two new Denso O2's, I'll let you know what happens. This is the first set of long tubes I've run on my Camaro....first time I've had these codes.

**0rion** · 03-09-2009, 04:19 PM

Originally Posted by ntimid8r

I'm dealing with that same situation right now. My tuner said he uses Denso brand O2's and they seem to work for him. I just received two new Denso O2's, I'll let you know what happens. This is the first set of long tubes I've run on my Camaro....first time I've had these codes.

I've heard good things about Denso's. I put the bosch 13111's in mine last year and didn't get the normal heater codes I had all year. I have a theory though that if you swap to a new O2 that doesn't have the carbon build up on it that it'll fix a lot of problems until it does get a nice coating on it. The problem is the location and temps of the sensors.

**ntimid8r** · 03-09-2009, 04:35 PM

I think I have bosch in there now too. My tuner's shop just got my methanol injection working and now I'm seeing those codes. I'm not sure if there's any correlation. I'm guessing you and Kyle C don't run methanol....so this is interesting info.

Here's my scan:

**Kyle C** · 03-09-2009, 06:49 PM

No methane here, the rear O2s are still in place I'll try swapping them if the problem persists. I had some O2 heater codes right after the header install. I believe it had to do with the rear sensors, after the tune it didn't return. It's been 3 years and 25k miles with no issues, I just thought it was odd for both O2s to threw both codes at the same time.

Thanks for the info.

**ntimid8r** · 03-17-2009, 09:04 AM

I just installed the Denso O2's on Sunday. The codes went away immediately. So far so good but I'll have to see how it all plays out as the more miles I drive on them.

**ntimid8r** · 04-05-2009, 10:33 AM

Update:

Well I went on a cruise yesterday and was popping the same codes left and right. So I'll now stand in the circle that 0rion has drawn,

Originally Posted by 0rion

The problem is the location and temps of the sensors.

It's not about the brand of O2 sensor but the fact that the sensors don't work so well in long tube headers.

Oh well, looks like I have to clear the DTC codes alot or as long as I am running long tube headers.

**SSMuscle** · 06-16-2010, 09:33 PM

Originally Posted by ntimid8r

Update:

Well I went on a cruise yesterday and was popping the same codes left and right. So I'll now stand in the circle that 0rion has drawn, It's not about the brand of O2 sensor but the fact that the sensors don't work so well in long tube headers.

Oh well, looks like I have to clear the DTC codes alot or as long as I am running long tube headers.

I have this same prob. I put on some LT's and ORY, and the car ran fine after a tune. Next thing you know i get the p1133 and p1153. So i swapped for my spare 02's that i had lying around, which were in great condition. It went away, but after only 3 days the codes came back. IS THERE ANY SOLUTION TO THIS?????????????????????????????? I don't wanna buy BRAND NEW 02's, if it's just gonna do the same thing and throw codes. My friend with HP Tuners turned the 02's off for me in the meantime that i figure something out. ANY SOLUTIONS PLZ!!!!!

**Spaz** · 06-17-2010, 05:13 AM

Originally Posted by SSMuscle

I have this same prob. I put on some LT's and ORY, and the car ran fine after a tune. Next thing you know i get the p1133 and p1153. So i swapped for my spare 02's that i had lying around, which were in great condition. It went away, but after only 3 days the codes came back. IS THERE ANY SOLUTION TO THIS?????????????????????????????? I don't wanna buy BRAND NEW 02's, if it's just gonna do the same thing and throw codes. My friend with HP Tuners turned the 02's off for me in the meantime that i figure something out. ANY SOLUTIONS PLZ!!!!!

that is the solution... the rear 02's need to be off...

**SSMuscle** · 06-17-2010, 07:31 AM

lol......the rears have been off since i first tuned them out for a cat delete. NOW i have the headers, so it's only one on each side, and this stupid code is beginning to bug me. IS THERE NO SOLUTION?? My friend turned off the 02's for now so that i don't get a SES light.

**0rion** · 06-17-2010, 07:32 AM

Originally Posted by SSMuscle

I have this same prob. I put on some LT's and ORY, and the car ran fine after a tune. Next thing you know i get the p1133 and p1153. So i swapped for my spare 02's that i had lying around, which were in great condition. It went away, but after only 3 days the codes came back. IS THERE ANY SOLUTION TO THIS?????????????????????????????? I don't wanna buy BRAND NEW 02's, if it's just gonna do the same thing and throw codes. My friend with HP Tuners turned the 02's off for me in the meantime that i figure something out. ANY SOLUTIONS PLZ!!!!!

you could try bosch 13111 sensors as they've helped many people with switching and heater codes. Hopefully your friend just turned off the 1133 and 1153 codes and didn't turn off your front sensors. They're needed for fueling unless you have your VE table dialed in.

**SSMuscle** · 06-17-2010, 07:52 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

you could try bosch 13111 sensors as they've helped many people with switching and heater codes. Hopefully your friend just turned off the 1133 and 1153 codes and didn't turn off your front sensors. They're needed for fueling unless you have your VE table dialed in.

That sounds like a 140$ risk to me. Money i can't spend right now thanks to the economy. Yea, i just spoke to him, he only turned off the codes so that they don't appear anymore. ANY OTHER SOLUTIONS?? Someone brought up wrapping the 02's with heat wrap, so that they stay hot longer. Something about the air cooling it and since it has LT's now, it takes longer for the 02's to get hot.

**0rion** · 06-17-2010, 08:07 AM

you could try that.....ebay has the bosch sensors for $46 a piece which is a pretty good deal. There have been people in the past that have just turned those codes off and called it good. Probably wouldn't hurt to run with the codes are off until you can get some new sensors in there. I've seen those bosch sensors work for a lot of people here on the board, myself included. Hard for me to definitely tell you that'll fix your problem because technically it probably shouldn't fix the problem but there are a dozen or so people here that has had those sensors work for them. Not sure if I've read where they haven't worked for someone.

**Spaz** · 06-17-2010, 08:32 AM

the only thing i could think of to get them warmed up would be to move/weld the 02 bungs closer to the collectors... that way the exhaust would warm them up faster...

maybe i'm wrong...

**Frost** · 06-17-2010, 09:02 AM

There are multiple solutions for this problem...

It occurs because of heat-loss around the sensor from aftermarket exhaust. The O2s get lazy around idle (if the car were all stock, this would be a problem; and hence the code) and trim response kind of flattens out. Many times with LTs, just installing a fresh set of O2s will get things moving well enough (though not always).

If the tune is close (minimal trimming to maintain stoich) then it's just a header issue and the codes can be set to No-Report. You can do that, because the issue you are being alerted to has OEM sensors and manifolds in mind, which you no longer have.
Now, for SD cars (with IAT heat soak sensitivity) where you WANT strong active switching at idle you can add proportional fueling in the airflow modes that correspond with idle as well as working on the closed loop integrator delay to make the car respond more quickly to slow O2 error. You can still disbale error reporting, but once you get things moving at idle, the criteria to keep the light away is generally met.

**SSMuscle** · 06-17-2010, 10:02 AM

So the only known remedy is to get NEW sensors? If my friend with HPtuners turned off the codes so that they don't appear anymore, does it affect my fueling? Or will it run fine as long as the 02's are on?

**SSMuscle** · 06-17-2010, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by Spaz

the only thing i could think of to get them warmed up would be to move/weld the 02 bungs closer to the collectors... that way the exhaust would warm them up faster...

maybe i'm wrong...

So the problem is them not warming up enough correct?

**Cutlass** · 06-17-2010, 06:01 PM

Originally Posted by SSMuscle

If my friend with HPtuners turned off the codes so that they don't appear anymore, does it affect my fueling? Or will it run fine as long as the 02's are on?

Frost already answered that question for you.

Originally Posted by Frost

If the tune is close (minimal trimming to maintain stoich) then it's just a header issue and the codes can be set to No-Report.

**SSMuscle** · 06-17-2010, 09:02 PM

I understood most of what he said lol. Except for this "You can still disbale error reporting, but once you get things moving at idle, the criteria to keep the light away is generally met." I can disable the SES light, but once i get things moving at idle? the criteria is generally met? English for us noobs lol.