Next mod ???

[FASTEDDIE Z]

Alright . I have a 98 Z A4 .I just did a magnaflow c/b , K&N filter ,SLP lid and free mods ( ram air /chopped egr ) . My drag radials and 3:73's are on the way Then it will get tuned . My question is, whats next ?? L/T headers and y pipe or a LS6 intake .Which will have the biggest impact ? Maybe LCA relocate ?? Im going to do a cam and converter in the spring .Thanks

[02Sweet]

Alright . I have a 98 Z A4 .I just did a magnaflow c/b , K&N filter ,SLP lid and free mods ( ram air /chopped egr ) . My drag radials and 3:73's are on the way Then it will get tuned . My question is, whats next ?? L/T headers and y pipe or a LS6 intake .Which will have the biggest impact ? Maybe LCA relocate ?? Im going to do a cam and converter in the spring .Thanks

I would look into the headers and y pipe. They made a big difference in my car

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

I'd throw SFC's on and then a stall...in that order

[0rion]

the stall will get you the most gains for the dollar.

[pajeff02]

Are the 3.73's going in the stock rear?

[joedude02]

get a stall converter!!! best bang for your buck. 2800-3500 stall

[allbaugh_04]

A stall is a nice thing to have. If you are doing that in the spring, then do suspesion mods...sub frame connectors, lca's or lca relocation brackets, i'm not sure which has more impact yet, cuz I've only done the SFCs.

I did the LS6 intake, I didn't notice much, but supposedly after a cam and head swap you will notice more.

Do them all!

[Hi-Po]

Stall first. Read up on that, its very important you gt one that match's your goals

Longtubes, would be right behind that.

LCA relocating can be great if your having problems hooking at the track. I had a pretty severe wheel hop problem getting off the line, and they helped greatly. You might not need these right now, so I wouldn't go buying those yet. Unless your car is lowered

Your saying your doing a cam also. That's great, and you should probably wait and buy them together to match. After the cam install, that LS1 intake is going to kill your new power. LS6 at the minimum.

[allbaugh_04]

Would you say relocation brackets or LCAs are more important for a '60?

I might do both.

[Hi-Po]

Would you say relocation brackets or LCAs are more important for a '60?

I might do both.

LCA's at first for sure. Go out and make a few runs, if your hopping badly or spinning way excessive get the relocation brackets. They are a must for lowered cars, and can help quite a bit at the track. Just a heads up on your install for LCA's and relocate brackets, you might have to (will have to) enlarge the hole for the parking brake bracket. When I went to the lowest hole, I had to open it up some. Not that big of a deal, but I wish I heard it before cussing at them for 30 minutes.

[allbaugh_04]

LCA's at first for sure. Go out and make a few runs, if your hopping badly or spinning way excessive get the relocation brackets. They are a must for lowered cars, and can help quite a bit at the track. Just a heads up on your install for LCA's and relocate brackets, you might have to (will have to) enlarge the hole for the parking brake bracket. When I went to the lowest hole, I had to open it up some. Not that big of a deal, but I wish I heard it before cussing at them for 30 minutes.

I have Nitto 555R's 315/35/17. An SS4000 2.6STR, w/2.73s and I still spin on my launch (street). Which I don't think I should.

[Hi-Po]

I have Nitto 555R's 315/35/17. An SS4000 2.6STR, w/2.73s and I still spin on my launch (street). Which I don't think I should.

I wouldn't expect any size Nitto to hook cold, on a normal non prepped piece of asphalt from a dig really. How much are the relocate brackets? I thought I remember them being cheap, I wouldnt know because they came on my 9"

I would personally just buy both, if money allows.

[allbaugh_04]

Well I lower the pressure to 20-25 and do warm them up.

I don't have a limit, just don't wanna spend 300 dollars on something i might not need yet. Like a torque arm.

Non-adjustable are 100 through umi. Adjustble doubles in price.

Weld in relocation brackets are 60, bolt in are 90. Which in reality are the same price, since I don't have a wire welder. I'd have to pay to weld them in.

The prices aren't too terrible, but shit...200 if I want adjustable plus 100 for relocation brackets...that's not exactly cheap either.

[Hi-Po]

Well I lower the pressure to 20-25 and do warm them up.

I don't have a limit, just don't wanna spend 300 dollars on something i might not need yet. Like a torque arm.

Non-adjustable are 100 through umi. Adjustble doubles in price.

Weld in relocation brackets are 60, bolt in are 90. Which in reality are the same price, since I don't have a wire welder. I'd have to pay to weld them in.

The prices aren't too terrible, but shit...200 if I want adjustable plus 100 for relocation brackets...that's not exactly cheap either.

Do you ever go to the track? I don't even try to hook from a dead dig on the street, with MT ET DR's. Adjustables are only good for centering the rear, I do not have adjustables, just boxed BMR's. That's why I recommended just getting the LCA's and trying the track out. Trying to hook from dig on the street is usually always frustrating

[allbaugh_04]

Do you ever go to the track? I don't even try to hook from a dead dig on the street, with MT ET DR's. Adjustables are only good for centering the rear, I do not have adjustables, just boxed BMR's. That's why I recommended just getting the LCA's and trying the track out. Trying to hook from dig on the street is usually always frustrating

No track time yet, but they are nittos...

Do you have the MT ET Streets I or II? What size and on what rim and size?

I can also adjust the rear if need with an adjustable pan hard bar correct? I'll probably just get the non adjustables first then.

[Hi-Po]

No track time yet, but they are nittos...

Do you have the MT ET Streets I or II? What size and on what rim and size?

I can also adjust the rear if need with an adjustable pan hard bar correct? I'll probably just get the non adjustables first then.

MT Street I

Stock WS6 rims, 275/40/17

The only reason I liked my Nittos more then the MT DR's on the street is I could spin them and not trash the tire with blisters. Other then that, you cant beat the MT DR for hooking. Rain is a big no-no

Im still running a stock pan hard. My setup has pulled a best of 1.69 60' and I know it has bottom 1.6's with more practice on my end. The 1/4 mile is really the only way to know if your setup is actually working well.

[allbaugh_04]

Well I can't decide between I and II

[joedude02]

I have Nitto 555R's 315/35/17. An SS4000 2.6STR, w/2.73s and I still spin on my launch (street). Which I don't think I should.

it's your stall torque ratio (STR). that seems a bit much unless you're trying to do wheel stands which pointless on the tires you're running. just my .02, but every car is different with it's setup and purpose. 2.3 STR is what i've always ran, but then again i've never ran with a gear any lower than 3.55's

[allbaugh_04]

Ya I realized it was too much after the fact...after i bought it

I will get tires that hook and i can '60 any one out of the hole hopefully.

[pajeff02]

Im still running a stock pan hard. My setup has pulled a best of 1.69 60' and I know it has bottom 1.6's with more practice on my end. The 1/4 mile is really the only way to know if your setup is actually working well.

No joke? Last month, I was under our car deciding what to get at Fall Carlisle. I grabbed a hold of the stock panhard bar and found that it is quite flimsy. I figured, anything that is going to hold the rear in place ought to be a little sturdier than that -- and I am running no where near the power you are. Any reason you have not swapped it out (other than the fact that you have great times already)?