New Motor or Not

**Thom** · 07-28-2009, 12:28 PM

I have a 2000 SS Camaro with close to 90,000 mles on it. I installed a cam and some 4:11s a few years back. I had some issues with it and recently had taken it to get checked out. It appears that I need a fuel pump which I will need to replace either way I go with this.

I have a fairly limited budget and I know when talking performance this is a bad thing. I want to try to build something that will push around 425 to 480 rwhp. I could do one thing at a time like headers, then heads later and ect which will be more cost effective. Or I could get a crate engine like this LS3 376 / 480hp which was about $6200.00. The bad part about adding on to the current LS1 motor is that there already is about 90,000 miles on it so this is looking at adding new parts to a motor with a good amount of wear. On the other hand there is no one that finances crate engines and the $6200.00 plus the install is a lot to spend all at once.

I know this might sound dumb but any feedback would be appreciated. Also can a LS 3 be easily installed in a 2000 SS Camaro?

**rc74racer** · 07-28-2009, 12:43 PM

Too much $$$ for what you get IMO. I would mod your current motor most of what you do can be put on a new motor. 90k miles is not that much guys are doing a lot more with more miles.

The problem you are going to face is once you get close to you RWHP goals other things will start breaking. It takes $$$ to play with close to 500 RWHP if you don't have it just keep saving.

If you do decided to go with another motor do a built stroker instead of a crate engine more bang for your buck.

**ls1fan74** · 07-29-2009, 02:22 AM

Originally Posted by rc74racer

Too much $$$ for what you get IMO. I would mod your current motor most of what you do can be put on a new motor. 90k miles is not that much guys are doing a lot more with more miles.

The problem you are going to face is once you get close to you RWHP goals other things will start breaking. It takes $$$ to play with close to 500 RWHP if you don't have it just keep saving.

If you do decided to go with another motor do a built stroker instead of a crate engine more bang for your buck.

He could just re-build the LS1 right? New rod bearings, rings, valve stem seals, head and oil pan gasket....I mean doesnt that stuff go the quickest with normal wear and tear? Plus having the motor out and apart is a good excuse for high performance parts

**rc74racer** · 07-29-2009, 05:56 AM

Yep rebuilding what he has is an option but it sounds to me like $$$ are a issue. 90k on an LS1 is not too much to throw some bolt ons and a set of heads on there. Then he has everything he needs for whatever sort of build comes next original motor, stroker, etc... I'd probably prep the drivetrain before going too far on a 500hp build.

**ScrapMaker** · 08-10-2009, 08:34 AM

My LS1 has 192k miles on it. I wouldn't get to worked up over a measly 90k.

I am looking to put in a crate LS6, with accessories, since most of mine are on the way out.

I'm gonna drive it 'til it pukes, and I don't baby this thing. Honestly, it's a miracle it is still alive in my eyes. Every stop light is a drag-strip if you ask me.

It just reiterates how badass the LS1 motor truly is.

**0rion** · 08-10-2009, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by ScrapMaker

My LS1 has 192k miles on it. I wouldn't get to worked up over a measly 90k.

I am looking to put in a crate LS6, with accessories, since most of mine are on the way out.

I'm gonna drive it 'til it pukes, and I don't baby this thing. Honestly, it's a miracle it is still alive in my eyes. Every stop light is a drag-strip if you ask me.

It just reiterates how badass the LS1 motor truly is.

I agree with you. I've beat the piss out of mine with heads, cam, and stalled. Just rolled 96k yesterday. Very durable engine.

**ls1fan74** · 08-10-2009, 02:31 PM

Originally Posted by ScrapMaker

My LS1 has 192k miles on it. I wouldn't get to worked up over a measly 90k.

I am looking to put in a crate LS6, with accessories, since most of mine are on the way out.

I'm gonna drive it 'til it pukes, and I don't baby this thing. Honestly, it's a miracle it is still alive in my eyes. Every stop light is a drag-strip if you ask me.

It just reiterates how badass the LS1 motor truly is.

How much have you done to it if I may ask, as far as repairs/mods

**JaycenK** · 08-10-2009, 02:43 PM

LOL bottom end rebuild while it runs= under a thousand for new bearings and even new pistons. infact prob only 6 to 700.
Fully Forged bottom end while it is in good shape= Maybe 3k more like 2800. and you can have a stroke for that price.
Heads and Cam intake= anywere from 500 bucks to 5k and you will be putting out anywere from 350 to 500+ at the rear wheels. a mildly wild build would net you 400 at the rear wheels. and you would have more than enough left over for the other mods you need for running that power V's that ls3 crate.
For 7k I could have my motor built "355 with heads and cam on stock crank and rods", buy a preformance automatic" level 2" and have a head start on a 12 bolt or 9inch

**ScrapMaker** · 08-11-2009, 07:34 AM

Originally Posted by ls1fan74

How much have you done to it if I may ask, as far as repairs/mods

The tranny went out at 150k... I lost 4th, then 3rd a few minutes later, as well as first gear. Cost was $2500 for a rebuild from a racing shop. Guaranteed/warrantied for over 500hp of abuse. This thing shifts hard as hell. I've got more miles than nearly every car around me and I (accidentally) chirp going into second nearly every time. If I push it, the tires will squeak going into into 3rd as well.

I had developed a slight oil leak at the rear main seal, and I had this done at the same time for a few hundred more.

My alternator has gone out roughly 15 times, (I need to get a NON-AutoZone one.)

My cats became worthless and clogged up around 180k... it was putting so much back pressure into the engine that I was getting oil leaks everywhere... I had no idea what was going on, since the car has so much power on tap, I didn't even realize the difference. After the new cats (shudder--stupid of me to go with stock cats again,) the oil leaks stopped.

My power steering pump makes a little bit of noise and vibration, and the differential was replaced around 40k miles by the dealer under warranty, (I didn't own it then.) The rear end makes a little noise, so I know if I dropped a bigger motor in, it would definitely detonate.

I haven't done anything special to this car--just oil changes every 2-3k miles. I just had the coolant flushed out. It was the stock, from-the-factory dex-cool, with 192k miles on it. All the techs said that my car should have been destroyed and riddled with corrosion and rust, but the fluid looked PERFECTLY fine. I have the dealer notes from the previous owners, and they never had a fluid flush... This stuff was definitely dex-cool.

These cars really don't require much more than oil changes to make it to 200k. The weakness is definitely the rear-end, and most transmissions will not make it to 200k, but that's a quick repair if you go to some large chain. You can get the car back in 1-2 days around here, and get a 2year warranty.

This car was easily the best purchase I've made in years. Stock A/C (stock charge,) still blows ice cold in our 105F+ Texas heat

Originally Posted by JaycenK

LOL bottom end rebuild while it runs= under a thousand for new bearings and even new pistons. infact prob only 6 to 700.
Fully Forged bottom end while it is in good shape= Maybe 3k more like 2800. and you can have a stroke for that price.
Heads and Cam intake= anywere from 500 bucks to 5k and you will be putting out anywere from 350 to 500+ at the rear wheels. a mildly wild build would net you 400 at the rear wheels. and you would have more than enough left over for the other mods you need for running that power V's that ls3 crate.
For 7k I could have my motor built "355 with heads and cam on stock crank and rods", buy a preformance automatic" level 2" and have a head start on a 12 bolt or 9inch

Most people who make comments like this are into drag racing and whatnot. For a lot of people here, they would like to get the best gas mileage they can, while still having a badass car. In that case, dropping in something like a crate LS6 would be perfect. When you start putting in cams, heads, and all the other goodies, your 25mpg highway mileage starts to drop like a rock.

**garygnu65** · 08-12-2009, 04:02 AM

i too i'm thinking about swapping my LS1 for a LS3. i will need the right oil pan for a F-body ,and cable driven tb.what else?

**ScrapMaker** · 08-12-2009, 09:58 AM

Originally Posted by garygnu65

i too i'm thinking about swapping my LS1 for a LS3. i will need the right oil pan for a F-body ,and cable driven tb.what else?

You will need the whole ecm package. They sell one with the pedal as well.

**garygnu65** · 08-12-2009, 07:29 PM

can i just install a cable driven TB, like a 90mm fast?my ecm is based off a f-body ls1 tune , so i would need to tune the new ecm like a 08 vette because of the different sensors?

**JaycenK** · 08-13-2009, 11:40 AM

what

**JaycenK** · 08-13-2009, 11:48 AM

Originally Posted by ScrapMaker

Most people who make comments like this are into drag racing and whatnot. For a lot of people here, they would like to get the best gas mileage they can, while still having a badass car. In that case, dropping in something like a crate LS6 would be perfect. When you start putting in cams, heads, and all the other goodies, your 25mpg highway mileage starts to drop like a rock.

Even if you went a little wild you wouldn't spend the differance between 6500 just for the engine and the fuel you would use over 4 years. Big cams over sized rockers an inceased displacment and High RPMS = bad eco not rebuilding the botom end for less than $1200 and doing some head work for $1500, or even swapping heads. He could get the bottom end done for 800 bucks if everything is good!! there is no differance between a LS3 or an LS6 and a reworked LS1! all they changed is head flow and cam and alittle displacement. Besides he is tring to put 500 hp to the ground