my build in mind

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-11-2010, 11:59 AM

What I've been thinking for my car is to throw a 100 wet shot of nitrous on it. Then I'm hoping for getting a 9" with 3.73 gears in it. Wat I'm wondering is roughly how much would the rear end cost me?. wat would I have to upgrade to support the nos? I got stock interals with 58k on the car. Wat would I have to do in terms of tuning? Would a mail order suffice? Can I run the nos before doing the rear without tuning? Help and suggestions are appreciated. I'm thinking about a kit from nitrous direct. Is it good? Wat else would I need to buy? Car is an a4 with mods in sig.

**Ryans99LS1** · 02-11-2010, 01:12 PM

for a 9in its going to be ROUGHLY $2k it all depends on how you want it setup. You dont have to upgrade much for nitrous. If you wanna do it right then do some minor fuel upgrades(injectors, maybe a fuel pressure regulator and maybe a fuel pump while your at it) along with the kit. Those arent all vital, but if i was doing nitrous thats what i would do.. I would skip a mail order and actually get the car tuned in person, nitrous is completely fine if you have a good tune, otherwise your asking for a new motor. Your motor will be fine on a 100-150 shot, but you need a good tune. Ive had a some friends running the harris speedworks kits and the nitro daves kits with good results. you dont need a rear if your not gonna be at the track a lot spraying off the line. if its a street car, youll get away without doing the rear end first.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-11-2010, 01:17 PM

Would I need a stall with the rear? Would I be able to safely run a 100 shot without a tune? Anything I can could by my self?

**Ryans99LS1** · 02-11-2010, 01:40 PM

oh yeah didnt notice you dont have a stall, the most popular ones for fbodys seem to be in the 3200-4200rpm range. ive seen and heard of people running a 100shot without a tune.. BUT i dont recommend it one bit. if you dont wanna get a tune, atlease make sure your A/F ratio is in the right range for a shot. im not sure what you mean by the last part of the sentence

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-11-2010, 01:58 PM

Originally Posted by Ryans99LS1

oh yeah didnt notice you dont have a stall, the most popular ones for fbodys seem to be in the 3200-4200rpm range. ive seen and heard of people running a 100shot without a tune.. BUT i dont recommend it one bit. if you dont wanna get a tune, atlease make sure your A/F ratio is in the right range for a shot. im not sure what you mean by the last part of the sentence

Yeah stall will be eventually. I've had the car tuned but I'm not sure if its good for nos or not I don't know much about the tuning. I was wondering if there was anything I could do byself in terms of getting the system to work without going on a dyno. Is there a better kit I should look at? Wat else necessary for a working nitrous system? Do I need purges and such?

**Ryans99LS1** · 02-11-2010, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28

Yeah stall will be eventually. I've had the car tuned but I'm not sure if its good for nos or not I don't know much about the tuning. I was wondering if there was anything I could do byself in terms of getting the system to work without going on a dyno. Is there a better kit I should look at? Wat else necessary for a working nitrous system? Do I need purges and such?

talk to whoever tuned your car about the tuning aspect, tell them exactly what you want. idk about a better kit, there are a good amount of good kits out there right now. I suggest you just start researching and learn the basics of nitrous before you put it on your car. you can search on this forum or call some nitrous companies and pick brains if you really feel like it. Research research research.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-12-2010, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by Ryans99LS1

talk to whoever tuned your car about the tuning aspect, tell them exactly what you want. idk about a better kit, there are a good amount of good kits out there right now. I suggest you just start researching and learn the basics of nitrous before you put it on your car. you can search on this forum or call some nitrous companies and pick brains if you really feel like it. Research research research.

Well yeah pervious tuner was a mustang shop in buffalo so its not really worth it for me to go there again. Its a nice 400 mile drive (my best time 5 and half hours to get there). But he did a good job. Woke up a lot of power. I've been reading this forum and the info they have here which has been helping a lot. I just need a direction in which to start

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-14-2010, 09:00 AM

for rear end with gears would a tune be necessary?

**Cutlass** · 02-14-2010, 10:23 AM

Just to fix the speedo

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-14-2010, 11:02 AM

thats all that has to be done on an a4 when u change gears?

also i wanna get a shopping list together of wat parts i need can anyone help me out cause i dont know wat i have to order with it to make it work. i wanna get a 9" with 3.73 gears in it. should i get the stall now or can it wait till later?

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-14-2010, 01:44 PM

Is there a cheaper place to get a 9" from then moser itself? Wat do I need to know in terms of spline count, bolt pattern, bearing type, stub type. There's an option for the back brace and fill/drain plugs installation. I'm guessing plugs I need do I need back brace? Wat do I do for width and pinion offset? And which gears are good? I want 3.73 which brand should I throw in there?
I'm assuming I can reprogram the speedo with a predator right?
Help appreciated guys.

**Mr. Luos** · 02-14-2010, 05:07 PM

Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28

Is there a cheaper place to get a 9" from then moser itself? Wat do I need to know in terms of spline count, bolt pattern, bearing type, stub type. There's an option for the back brace and fill/drain plugs installation. I'm guessing plugs I need do I need back brace? Wat do I do for width and pinion offset? And which gears are good? I want 3.73 which brand should I throw in there?
I'm assuming I can reprogram the speedo with a predator right?
Help appreciated guys.

Bob at EPP.
Although I recommend Midwest 9" over a Moser unit.

When it gets tuned for the nitrous, have them tune the gear change as well....skip using a handheld if possible.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-14-2010, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Bob at EPP.
Although I recommend Midwest 9" over a Moser unit.

When it gets tuned for the nitrous, have them tune the gear change as well....skip using a handheld if possible.

well the car has already been tuned i just wanted to change the speedo with it

**Mr. Luos** · 02-14-2010, 07:03 PM

Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28

well the car has already been tuned i just wanted to change the speedo with it

It has been tuned for the nitrous?
Timing needs backed way off for a hit.

Who tuned it? They should be able to plug it in and change that for you in about 2 minutes. Unless it is mail order of course.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-14-2010, 07:36 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

It has been tuned for the nitrous?
Timing needs backed way off for a hit.

Who tuned it? They should be able to plug it in and change that for you in about 2 minutes. Unless it is mail order of course.

oh no not for nitrous. its been tuned with the bolt ons i have in sig. rear end and nitrous and on the wishlist right now and im trying to figure everything out for them

**35th-ANV-SS** · 02-14-2010, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28

Is there a cheaper place to get a 9" from then moser itself? Wat do I need to know in terms of spline count, bolt pattern, bearing type, stub type. There's an option for the back brace and fill/drain plugs installation. I'm guessing plugs I need do I need back brace? Wat do I do for width and pinion offset? And which gears are good? I want 3.73 which brand should I throw in there?
I'm assuming I can reprogram the speedo with a predator right?
Help appreciated guys.

If you are getting a Moser 9", 31 spline is the highest you can go if you are staying with a TruTrac. Anything higher and you have to get the Detroit Locker or Wavetrac I believe.

31 splines are plenty strong enough for your application.

I don't think you need a backbrace. The drain plug I would recommend. Without the drain plug you'll have to take the differential housing cover off I would suspect to drain it.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-15-2010, 08:52 AM

Ok 31 spline it is. Wat other parameters do I need to know

**35th-ANV-SS** · 02-15-2010, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28

Ok 31 spline it is. Wat other parameters do I need to know

Honestly...

Not to sounds like an ass, but I would suggest you read up on this stuff before you go spending $2500+ to make sure you understand what it is exactly you want...and need to buy.

You don't want to be doing this twice.

I suggest talking to an expert. Like Mr. Luos stated, call Bob at Exotic Performance Plus (EPP). Ask him questions...he is a great guy. Tell him John Marlow sent ya..he knows me pretty well by now

Mark at www.kyspeed.com is a sponsor here and sells the 9" also I believe. May want to talk to him about pricing and options also.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-15-2010, 10:26 AM

No its fine. Honestly I'm that's why I'm asking the questions here because I know that most of you know what your doing and can point me in the right direction. I figured there would be a general track I can be pointed down looking for wat I want. I'm just hoping for some tips and suggestions on wat I need and wat would benefit me more for wat I'm trying to do. For now my car is bolt on's and has had a dyno tune on it. Other than 17" 375s on it the car is stock which is I'm here asking questions.

**slpdablueZ28** · 02-17-2010, 10:43 AM

And another reason I'm looking to do the rear is that I think the one I have now is crapping out on me anyway. So I figure instead of getting it fixed again (I bought the car with a leaking rear end) I might as well get a good rear end that won't bust on me again. My car is dd but its driven pretty hard each day. Plus the occasional chance for a donut. So its been beat on for a good 25k miles