Is it my brakes?

**024mula** · 07-17-2015, 05:36 AM

I think I know what the problem is, I just want to double check with you guys.

I can be driving 55 mph or 90 mph and there is no shake from the sterring wheel but the only time the wheel shakes is when I apply the brakes. I think its the rotors, that they might be warped or wore out and need to be changed.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2015, 06:40 AM

Most likely the rotors are warped. Does it pull to one side? How old (miles) are the rotors?

**024mula** · 07-17-2015, 06:50 AM

It doesn't pull to one side, the sterring wheel just shake when I brake.

I guess the rotors are the stock because it only has 27,000 miles on the clock.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2015, 08:07 AM

27k for the car total? or was that on the rotors?

That's not much for them to be warped unless the car was doing some serious road course like AutoX.

**chuckstop00** · 07-17-2015, 10:33 AM

Could also be a stuck slide pin that the calipers move on, that would cause 1 side of the caliper to move, and not the other
and cause vibration.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2015, 10:51 AM

^^that too. Kinda why I was asking about it pulling to the side. Might be a stuck caliber too.

**024mula** · 07-17-2015, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

27k for the car total? or was that on the rotors?

That's not much for them to be warped unless the car was doing some serious road course like AutoX.

27,000 on the car but I'm guessing the rotors are the original rotors that came with the car.

Let me update you on my car, when I bought the car 5 years ago it needed 4 new tires but it didn't shake.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-17-2015, 03:26 PM

look at your fluid too.

**pajeff02** · 07-18-2015, 03:53 AM

Time to do a brake service on the car at the very least. You will want to remove, clean and lube the caliper pins with synthetic caliper grease. Flushing the brake fluid is also recommended with the age of the car. In many instances, time is harder on a car than miles.

This being said, upgrading to some R1 Concepts slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads, together with braided brake hoses, will make a world of difference in your car's stopping power and feel.

**024mula** · 07-18-2015, 04:20 AM

Very good advice Jeff, Thanks.

**RONS98TA** · 07-18-2015, 05:34 AM

If you grab some crossed drilled and slotted rotors from R1, you will NOT be disappointed. The stopping power is like nothing you have ever felt before. Absolutely worth it !!! I did the upgrade about 5 years ago, and its night and day difference. Plus, they look bada$$!! LOL

**Firebirdjones** · 07-18-2015, 05:44 AM

Warped rotors on these things are not all that uncommon. I've had 3 LS1 powered 4th gens and they all have had the issue. One of them went back to the dealer 3 times under warranty for the problem and they still never really fixed it. After the dealer was done with it, I tried 2 different brands of blank rotors as I found some had vastly different fin counts and thicknesses, some are cheap china crap, some are better, then tried 2 different types of pads. Those all warped within 50 miles.
It wasn't until I went with a drilled and slotted rotor along with a ceramic pad that the problem stopped.

The only 4th gen I've had that never had a warping rotor issue was our 97 Z we had, and I suspect since the LT1's had a different brake package (ie: smaller I believe) It wasn't until we started owning 98 and up LS1's that this issue started for us.

If you got 27,000 miles out of the stock setup before pulsating started I'd say you did pretty good from the experiences I've had with them. I'd definately do as others suggested here and go with a drilled and slotted rotor, a quality pad, and it shouldn't be an issue anymore.

**Mecinoid** · 07-18-2015, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Warped rotors on these things are not all that uncommon. I've had 3 LS1 powered 4th gens and they all have had the issue. One of them went back to the dealer 3 times under warranty for the problem and they still never really fixed it. After the dealer was done with it, I tried 2 different brands of blank rotors as I found some had vastly different fin counts and thicknesses, some are cheap china crap, some are better, then tried 2 different types of pads. Those all warped within 50 miles.
It wasn't until I went with a drilled and slotted rotor along with a ceramic pad that the problem stopped.

The only 4th gen I've had that never had a warping rotor issue was our 97 Z we had, and I suspect since the LT1's had a different brake package (ie: smaller I believe) It wasn't until we started owning 98 and up LS1's that this issue started for us.

If you got 27,000 miles out of the stock setup before pulsating started I'd say you did pretty good from the experiences I've had with them. I'd definately do as others suggested here and go with a drilled and slotted rotor, a quality pad, and it shouldn't be an issue anymore.

I have had similar experiences to this. I bought Auto Zone rotors and they lasted well. Lifetime Guarantee. Then decided I wanted to go with slotted and cross drilled rotors with ceramic pads and they are even better.

I also changed my '03 and '11 Vette to same set up .... much better with hardly any brake dust.

Good luck ... Mecinoid

**pajeff02** · 07-19-2015, 04:43 AM

I installed our R1 Concepts rotors and Hawk HPS pads maybe three years ago now. They still look and work great with zero warpage. I can haul the car down so much better now at the top of the track.