Knock Sensor Code...

[Spikito]

So I'm getting a knock sensor code....tell me what I need to know

[2001NBMZ28]

If it's a knock sensor that's bad, replace both - along with the harness while the intake is off.

[Cutlass]

^^^yep, what he said

[TerribleTed]

When I had this issue,,I tok my intake off,,and one,,the rear sensor hole was filled with water,,,and rust,,and this caused the wires to get screwed,,,

I replaced both sensors,,,then removed the foam from the underside of the intake,,cleaned out the holes,,then used hi temp rtv sealant on the sensor cover caps,,,this way when we wash out motors,,the water dont get all inside the sensor tubes,,

I imagine in my case the sensor died due to corossion,,

IMHLO

[Spikito]

sounds good....yall make it sound like pulling an intake is easy.....

[az gt eater]

IT actually is easy. I found out the hard way about replacing BOTH sensors and also the wiring harness while you are in there. And i tried sealing the plastic covers down with RTV, and it didn't do anything, I had to replace all the components two years later. (Every time for emissions.)

[SteveCZ28]

yea intake removal isnt hard...just be very careful on your first removal, and make sure you unplug the map sensor, and watch the big vacuum hose that goes to the back of the intake and to the brake booster, as that hose is directly behind your oil pressure sender. and it is insanely easy to break off....i had a knock sensor die on me, and when i removed it, it was soaked in oil, the valley cover seal had come out of the valley cover and let that area fill with oil, so you might want to look for that...but if your sensor is white and crusty looking, more than likely it failed due to water getting to it

[0rion]

if you wash your engine with a garden hose then stop. These motors aren't like the old small blocks....these have tons of electronics on board. Sure you can probably get away with it but if you ever read the headaches it can cause people you'll see why I recommend never doing that. Another area water gets in is via the cowl...that hood to cowl seal weathers over time and lets water in.
Water will kill knock sensors dead. Yes, pulling the intake is easier and faster than doing a brake job so if you can do a brake job you can do an intake swap. Step by step instrucitons at ls1howto.com on swapping intakes. Be mindful of the oil pressure sending unit. It'll be on the back of the block on the drivers side directly behind the intake. The brake booster hose runs behind it and that hose is usually what breaks the sender when you're removing it. Also, pay attention to the torque on the intake bolts....it's in IN/lb's and not ft/lbs. Not much torque required on those bolts....I believe it's like 7-8 lbs. You won't need to replace any gaskets and there's no coolant flow to the intake. It'll be one of the easiest intakes you've ever removed.

[Smittro]

if you wash your engine with a garden hose then stop. These motors aren't like the old small blocks....these have tons of electronics on board. Sure you can probably get away with it but if you ever read the headaches it can cause people you'll see why I recommend never doing that. Another area water gets in is via the cowl...that hood to cowl seal weathers over time and lets water in.
Water will kill knock sensors dead. Yes, pulling the intake is easier and faster than doing a brake job so if you can do a brake job you can do an intake swap. Step by step instrucitons at ls1howto.com on swapping intakes. Be mindful of the oil pressure sending unit. It'll be on the back of the block on the drivers side directly behind the intake. The brake booster hose runs behind it and that hose is usually what breaks the sender when you're removing it. Also, pay attention to the torque on the intake bolts....it's in IN/lb's and not ft/lbs. Not much torque required on those bolts....I believe it's like 7-8 lbs. You won't need to replace any gaskets and there's no coolant flow to the intake. It'll be one of the easiest intakes you've ever removed.

Those seals will leak reguardless of age.. Mine are prestein(sp) and still dropped a coil.. Everything from rain to washer fluid can get in there.. Usually on the drivers side between the brake booster, and engine.. For me it only cost me the price of a coil in the end.. But not before spending around $1000 dollars on top end parts before discovering the issue.. To solve the problem, you'll need to carefully bent the spot welded lip upwards just slightly.. Problem solved

[Spikito]

if you wash your engine with a garden hose then stop. These motors aren't like the old small blocks....these have tons of electronics on board. Sure you can probably get away with it but if you ever read the headaches it can cause people you'll see why I recommend never doing that. Another area water gets in is via the cowl...that hood to cowl seal weathers over time and lets water in.
Water will kill knock sensors dead. Yes, pulling the intake is easier and faster than doing a brake job so if you can do a brake job you can do an intake swap. Step by step instructions at ls1howto.com on swapping intakes. Be mindful of the oil pressure sending unit. It'll be on the back of the block on the drivers side directly behind the intake. The brake booster hose runs behind it and that hose is usually what breaks the sender when you're removing it. Also, pay attention to the torque on the intake bolts....it's in IN/lb's and not ft/lbs. Not much torque required on those bolts....I believe it's like 7-8 lbs. You won't need to replace any gaskets and there's no coolant flow to the intake. It'll be one of the easiest intakes you've ever removed.

wow...thanks....I have an LS6 intake im going to put on it soon, ill swap them then...but no, no more water gets under my hood, than the amount held on a tooth brush. But yeah, this is really helpful