How do you discharge the a/c pressure?

[kool-aide]

I was reading my Haynes, with no luck.

The repair manual says to discharge the A/C into an EPA approved canister. Ok, but it doesn't tell you is how.

I need to replace one of the lower A/C lines. How do I safely discharge the pressure in the A/C system?

Thanks

kool-aide

[kool-aide]

BTW, If I take a picture of which one is leaking. Can some one help me identify it. I'm searching the aprts stores now, and don't ahve a clue which part it is.

it appears to run between the passeger side of the A/C evap coil, lower side. I'm guess you call the thing in front of the radiator an evap coil. So it goes from lower pass side to behind the A/C compressor. The thing on the A/C serp belt. As far as I can feel it seems to connect to the back of the condenser.

thanks

kool-aide

[kool-aide]

well i found a diagram that calls that thing in front of the radiator a condenser not evap.

BTW, is R134 a greenish yellow liquid that kind of sort of looks like anti-freeze, not dex-cool, but oily?

Can you repair a pin hole in the metal crimp connection? It bubbles and seeps, so it has at least a pin hole leak, maybe more. THis is the crimp connector that goes from metal to rubber.

[Too Fast]

The condensor is in front of the radiator, that is the high pressure (when the AC is on only) side. If you only have a little freon left, you can slowly loosen the line connections and let it leak out. (Don't tell anyone you did this!) Is the line already leaking or broken? If so, you don't have much freon in your system anyway.
Your evaporator is in the dash, near the heater core.

[2001NBMZ28]

Yes, the condenser is in front of the radiator. For the refrigerant the correct way to evacuate it is with a machine - but you can release it from the schrader valve on the low side, probably not much in it anyway since it's leaking. If you remove/replace the line the system will be open to the atmosphere and need vacuuming before recharging anyway - see if you can buy the line and have a shop do the rest.

[kool-aide]

yeah it's the hose on the bottom and it is leaking. It leaves spots on the drive way and is constantly bubbling at the crimp. I haven't run A/C in several days. It has been cool enough to get by without it, but cold enough to run the defrost on heat.

Well I'm trying to learn what that part is so I can buy one. I haven't really found it online, and don't know the term to call it.

I guess this is the one DIY i won't be doing. I love DIY. 800 bucks to replace a water pump, thermostat, and lower hose vs my 180, wow big diff. The exp part was 130 for the pump.

any one wanna guess what a typical cost should be?

thanks

[Too Fast]

Yeah, you need a vacuum pump to do this correctly. And should replace the acuumulator as well. Then add the correct amount of oil, for that lost from the old acuumulator. Should evac system at least 30 minutes at at least 28 in hg.
At least you save money sometimes!
This sounds like a $500 job at our shop.

[kool-aide]

if you have access to tools used on home A/C will they work for a car? My uncle is a licensed residentail and commercial A/C guy. I just can't bare to hear what a shop would charge.

[kool-aide]

is the accumulator that little coke can size thing near the battery?

What ever that thing is I have arced from battery to it a few times, oops. To date I have melted a 1/4 in socket drive, and my watch while i was wearing it.

[kool-aide]

here is a pic of the line that is leaking. As you can see it is the low line that connects to the bottom passenger condenser and goes back behind the compressor

A/C pic on cardomain.com, kool-aide
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2954870/1

[thearborbarber]

I believe home A/C uses R-22 and slightly different fittings. I have had good luck with a walmart a/c recharge kit in the past.

[Too Fast]

Alright, I looked at my car. That line goes from the condensor, to the back of the compressor, then around and up to the accumulator. Yes, the accumulator is the roundish thing by the positive battery cable. Looks like a 6 on a 10 scale of hard to replace. I fyou do it yourself, replace the accumulator as well. It has dessicant inside it, to absorb moisture. Also, do not uncap the caps on the new accumulator until just before you put it on so it does not soak the moisture (humidity) out of the air, and get a vacuum pump to suck it down for at least 30 minutes before you add the freon. This way you have done a complete, professional job. Good luck!

[kool-aide]

would these tools be available at a parts store, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, NAPA?

Not only that but I was not able to get a part number online. I'm going to try and call a dealer for a part number.

[kool-aide]

the dealer parts lady called it the a/c manifold line
P/N 10409630

given my pic, does any one know if this is the right part number?

[kool-aide]

so as far as i can tell a/c work is not hard, you just need the right tools and patience.

I think i have ageneral idea of what to do, and that is called dangerous

You use a vaccum to pull the old freon out, keeping the world safe

I think you use gauges on the low and high side to meassure when to stop filling the system

you fill the system while it is running, can one is upside down when filling, can two is not upside down

i read about some tricks, use a towel soaked in hot water on the second can to keep the pressure close to where it needs to be

some trick about getting air out of the line used to connect the can to the low side.

I didn't come across antying that said you need to pressurize the system. I guess that is taken care of while filling and monitoring the gauges

hmm, there is much to think about. thank god it is getting cooler out and don't have a real need for the a/c.

the GM part numbers are correct, and expensive as heck. 120 bucks for the hose, ouch. Auto Zone has it for 85 bucks, still steep.

[2001NBMZ28]

Vacuum pump doesn't keep the world safe - you use it before recharging to get air and moisture out of the system after the repair, and ensure you don't have any leaks. Anyway, if the part numbers are good plug them into gmpartsdirect and fredbeans (sponsors) - a lot cheaper, on gmpartsdirect the hose comes up for $51.

[kool-aide]

ah yes, you are right the vaccum is to pull the stuff out, oops.

I will have to add that site to my list. I could swear i had it, but i guess not.

damn, you're right 51 bucks, woo whoo

thanks