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01-25-2010, 07:49 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
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- Shepherd, Michigan
- Age
- 36
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- 11,770
blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
getting ready to do a lot of work
so i got a big refund check from uncle sam...
so i am getting a yank ss4000, koni SA, strano lowering springs and rims.
well i plan on doing the install myself with some help.
i was wondering..would it just be easier for the shock/spring and stall install if i just drop the whole front assembly with the transmission ...or should i break it up and do it with dropping the trans only, and doing the shock/springs with the front assembly still in the car ?
also if anyone in michigan wants to help..i will pay for food and beer
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01-25-2010, 12:48 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Shepherd MI
- Posts
- 119
Silver, Stealth Gray- 97 SS CLONE, 06 GP GXP
ill help
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01-25-2010, 01:38 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
i'd probably do them seperately
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01-26-2010, 06:54 AM #4
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01-26-2010, 06:56 AM #5
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01-26-2010, 07:07 AM #6
don't let that top bolt scare you.....it's not that bad. Take the tranny mount out and let the engine sag on the mounts. A helper comes in real handy although I've done it by myself......just takes a little longer. What we did was have one person up front helping to hold the extension and guiding it onto the bolt while the guy in the rear worked the ratchet. Another thing is use as many of the 3" extensions as you can on the end so you have a little wiggle room. I did it with just 24" extensions and then again using a couple long extensions and a bunch of 3" and that second way is a little easier. I also put some masking tape around a swivel socket and put that on the end. It just gives you a little wiggle room so everything isn't so rigid when trying to line it up. Either way you do it would be quicker than dropping the whole thing.
Go ahead and change that front seal while you have the tranny out too....I didn't my first time and it leaked so I had to drop the tranny a second time to replace the seal. Don't do that.....it sucks. All that work for a $10 seal.
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01-26-2010, 07:17 AM #7
^^ What he said. No way I would drop the whole cradle to do a torque converter.
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01-26-2010, 07:42 AM #8
Dropping the entire K-member would be alot of extra work. If you were doing a head/cam too I'd say drop the whole thing. But for just a tranny and some coil springs I wouldn't.
I've pulled the tranny from mine twice, it's not that bad.
If the exhaust is removed the back of the engine will drop down enough to access the tranny bolts, as Orion mentioned, many long extensions do the job. Just remember to remove the air intake lid before you let the back of the engine drop. Hard plastic doesn't flex that well,,,lol.
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01-26-2010, 07:54 AM #9
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01-26-2010, 08:20 AM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 1999
- Location
- over here...
- Age
- 45
- Posts
- 25,709
[]D [] []V[] []D- 1999 trans am
when i did mine it took me 3 feet of extensions and a swivle socket... was a pain in the ass but i'd never drop the cradle to take the trans out... that would be even more of a pain in the ass and a crap load more work...
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01-26-2010, 08:31 AM #11
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- Jan 2006
- Location
- Shepherd, Michigan
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 11,770
blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
hmm nice. thanks for the advice gentleman. now i need to find a really good write up and i will be ready.
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01-26-2010, 08:49 AM #12
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01-26-2010, 08:53 AM #13
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01-26-2010, 08:54 AM #14
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- Shepherd, Michigan
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 11,770
blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
i will have to make a call to strano in a little bit..to order everything..i need to jump on his springs before they are gone.
i am just debating if i should do the hose mod and lower perch along with the springs..or just keep on the higher pearch and keep the isolator.
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01-26-2010, 11:17 AM #15
there used to be a pretty good write up floating around on dropping the tranny. I'll see if I can dig it up. I *think* it was posted at camaroz28 or somewhere like that. Might take me a while to find it....been a bunch of years since I've seen it.
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01-26-2010, 11:22 AM #16
found it......
converter install
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01-27-2010, 11:14 AM #17
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01-28-2010, 05:10 AM #18
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01-31-2010, 01:26 PM #19
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 635
SOM- 1998 T.A.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=8
This should help. As Spaz said the rears are a day in the park. Soak the top shock nuts with PB blaster etc.... Especially the fronts. For the rears I used a razor blade and slit the carpet to get to the rear bolts instead of rolling back the carpet. If you look your carpet is already marked where you need to cut and nobody will ever notice it and I am ANAL about my car lol.
BTW great choice on the Koni/Stranos. You will love it. Start saving for Strano bars and PHB next. The bars make a huge difference in reducing body roll and keeping the tires planted. I have the whole setup and love putting fear on the face in my passenger seat. Just take your time to learn the new suspension limits.
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02-01-2010, 05:51 AM #20
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