Gas Tank

**Soltakr** · 10-22-2007, 03:54 PM

Does anyone have a step by step guide on how to remove the gas tank on a 02?

**0rion** · 10-22-2007, 04:58 PM

not a step by step but I can get you close with cliff notes.

Take the driveshaft off the rear.
Take the shocks off the rear.
I had the torque arm and LCA's off anyhow but this may not be required. ( would let the tank come out easier if you did).
Take bolt out of brake line bracket so there's slack in the hose.
Remove panhard bar and brace.
Remove heat shield
Remove rear section of exhaust.
Lower rear as far down as it'll go while supporting car by sub frame on stands.
Take 3 screws out around filler neck which can be reached by opening the gas tank door and remove the plastic collar.
Seems like I had to remove the splash guard from behind the drivers rear tire to get to something but I don't remember what it was at the moment.
Disconnect wiring and fuel lines going to tank. The lines disconnect on top of the tank at the fuel pump. May help to wait until you lower the tank a bit to reach these.
Take bolts out of gas tank straps.
Lower passenger side of tank and rotate it to get the filler neck to clear and that's it.

The 02's have a rubber fill neck which will make pulling the tank much easier than the 98's which were metal.

The short version is to disconnect whatever it takes to get the rear as low as you can get it then just remove whatever it takes to get the tank out. If I think of anything else I'll add it or if I forgot something I'm sure someone else will jump in here. It's really not as bad a job as it sounds. The Haynes manual actually is pretty close on the removal.

**Soltakr** · 10-23-2007, 07:09 AM

Thanks, that’s should be fine. Just tiring to get some info to tell my buddy who is going to do it for me. I sure I could just get the manual from Pep boys or something too.

**0rion** · 10-23-2007, 08:18 AM

It's not as much work as it seems. It goes way faster with 2 people though. I did it by myself once and with a buddy once. Just a bunch of bolts to take off, that's about it.

**Soltakr** · 10-23-2007, 08:26 AM

For a pro, how long would you say it takes to do the job? Remove the tank, change fuel pump and reinstall.

**0rion** · 10-23-2007, 09:21 AM

I'm not sure what the labor hours would be. I would guess 3-4 hours.

**Soltakr** · 10-23-2007, 09:35 AM

great, thanks. Just wanted to get an idea of what to pay him.

**Mecinoid** · 10-23-2007, 11:19 PM

I think some guys go through the top cut and hole and that way it's easier the next time around. I do that if it looked good and I could fab up a plate to cover the hole later.

Am I dreaming? Or, did I really read this somewhere?

**0rion** · 10-24-2007, 12:42 AM

no, you didn't dream it. I'd say the majority probably do the access door method. I just choose not to cut on the car if I don't have to so my preference is to drop the tank.

**Soltakr** · 10-24-2007, 07:32 AM

yea, I was aware of the door method too but did not want to cut the car either. If I was going to be doing alot of racing were I needed to access the fuel pump often, then I would of build the door on top. This is just I one time swap..(I hope)

**Mecinoid** · 10-24-2007, 02:33 PM

I'm not 100% sure if I would put that door in my trunk either. If I have to replace the fuel pump in the future. I think the first time I'd drop the tank. Then, if it was a PITA and fuel pumps were going out quite often then ...... I might choose that route.

Just thought I'd bring it to the table in case you wanted to go that way. - AJ

**Customta98** · 05-17-2009, 09:48 AM

When i replaced my fuel pump i did not have to take off the drive shaft or any suspension parts, all i did was unload the suspension (just jack it up to a good hight) then i cut off the cat back exhaust around the axel area then cut the straps holding the tank (my bolts were in bad condition and rusted no way to get them off without doing so) then i lowered the tank to get at the lines and wires, unhooked them pulled the tank down and pulled it off to the side, pulled out the old fuel pump then replaced it with a new one. Put it back in hooked the wires and lines back up put new straps on hooked exhaust backup and welded it were i cut it before and it was good. just a couple of things to keep in mind, make sure to empty out your tank or have someone to help you lower it cause it gets heavy really quick and just for your knowledge the first time i did this i ordered a cheap pump from edelbrock and the wires they provided for the pump ( in the tank) wound up burning in less than a year so i would not buy from them, but in the end it is up to you i just thought it was a little more than dangerous to have faulty wires in the gas tank. hope this helps

**ls1camino** · 05-17-2009, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by Soltakr

yea, I was aware of the door method too but did not want to cut the car either. If I was going to be doing alot of racing were I needed to access the fuel pump often, then I would of build the door on top. This is just I one time swap..(I hope)

Famous last words...

I said the same thing after I installed my Racetronix Pump and then had to drop it again (I didn't want to cut the hole) because I STILL wasn't getting fuel. After I installed the tank for the second time, I STILL wasn't getting fuel, so I cut the door. and found out I was having an electrical problem.

After I cut the hole, I went to Home Depot and bought a small cabinet hinge (Stainless Steel) and a 4 foot strip of rubber. I bolted the hinge to the piece of metal that was left and the car and used the rubber as support (so the door doesn't drop onto the tank and as a exhaust gas/weather stripping.